That's true.

But if there is NOT water in the cylinder, you haven't narrowed down the problem. You can't prove a negative.

 

OK, dropped the head off, will know something early next week. No water in the cylinder so I don't know if that's good news or not. I guess now I just have to sit back and wait...

 

 

OK, I'm a little pi$$ed at the place I took the head to. I asked them to call me after they did the pressure test, they just decided to go ahead and machine it. They said it passed the pressure test but was out .008" from flat. That doesn't seem like enough to give me that much of a leak, does it??

 

Maybe. I guess there is only one way to find out if it is fixed.

 

It's possible. Check your block also. If you have a straight edge make sure there is no warping in the block also. Just seal every bolt with liquid sealer, I know it only says the one but that can also lubricate the bolts while you tighten them. Obviously make sure the head gasket is on correctly and you are sealing the water jackets.

 

I maters plenty if that weere .08 from end to end, or across. In any case it's too much. (I'd be pissed too, but at least it looks like you have a good head). How much Btw? Looks like you are "painted into a corner". Just make sure the right "sealant", on #11 so that is not a question. Idk myself, I might use Rectom seal, or Recor seal...Idk though.

 

I would expect torque specs are for dry bolts. If they are wet, that changes how they will torque down.

 

I guess I'll find out in a day or two when I can get to it. Now I've got another $50 for the pressure test, $50 for the machining, and another $50 for new head bolts and ANOTHER new gasket.


I think what I am going to do, before I put this motor back together completely, is to put the head on, torque it down and fill it up with coolant. Then I'm going to spin it over by hand, it shouldn't matter if I have the pushrods and rocker arms on as they are just torqued down no matter what position they are in. I want to make sure this thing is at least starting out sealed up, it is a total PITA getting those lower intake/exhaust bolts in and out. If it leaks again immediately I'm going to push it in the back yard where I don't have to look at it until next Spring!!

 

After filling with coolant, I would at least let it sit overnight to give it a chance to leak--if it's going to.

 

When I have done head gaskets my machinist told me to use Thread Sealant with PTFE brush on sealer. He said it doesn't change the torque specs.

 

I myself am not familiar with how they would pressure test, (every different head?) Just magna-fluxing for cracks is all I'm familiar with. If it was machined, best cleaned with the valves removed. I might "lap" them with some compound and a reversible drill and a section of fuel line. A bit "shade tree", but effective. That and new valve stem seals and you may be good to go, a good bit!

Just lightly oil the treads of the (other), head bolts. I migt grrab a set of bolts at pickNpull before I spent $50. That's just me though!

 

There's no telling how many times those bolts may have been off and on on a salvage yard engine.

 

Exactly.

That's why #11 is 100 ft/lbs and the rest are 110 ft/lbs.

 

Ken, are you saying you would install/torque a dry head bolt with no lube?

Yea Firestorm, that goes without saying. Don't forget you can safely go twice. $50 is a "chunk of change" or some of us!