There is a bunch out there for sale, only want to do this once any recommendations on what and where to buy?

 

I have replaced AC compressors on my 98 and 99 with Four Seasons and both have been great for many years now. I would recommend replacing the receiver/drier drier too. The kits on Rockauto come with new orings as well. If you want to take care of the entire system, the condenser is pretty easy to replace as well. GPD is a slightly lower cost alternative.
There seem to be two slightly different kits for a 2000 on Rockauto: this and this.

 

Thankyou. That's absurdly cheap.Mine has the black receiver dryer so I will order that one. Question, after evacuation does this system suck the freon in under vacuum. or does the ac compressor have to be engaged?

 

If your compressor failed internally you really should also be replacing the condenser and orifice tube as well as the drier, and flushing out the rest of the system. (Compressor failure typically spews metal contamination into the AC system.) You'll probably find the warranty on the new compressor requires those parts to be replaced.

After pulling vacuum some refrigerant will be pulled in on its own but you will need to run the compressor to pull in the rest. I put the refrigerant can in a container of warm water on a hot plate (not boiling, just hot tap water temperature) which helps it flow. I also use an electronic scale to monitor the amount of refrigerant put into the system.

 

Hard to say,won't there be some metal shavings in the compressor when removed? It was slightly working the other day. I bought a can of 134 a with the gauge . The gauge said it was low. Tried to add and it wouldn't take the freon. I jumped the low pressure switch but the compressor isn't kicking on now. Maybe a blown fuse or relay . Maybe the clutch went bad.. Its been 25 years since I worked on an ac system.

 

You can briefly hot-wire the compressor clutch to the battery to see if it's working. That should be done very quickly if the engine is running since if the refrigerant level is too low there won't be enough lubrication for the compressor. (Of course that's why there's a low-pressure safety cutoff.) If the only problem with your compressor is a failed clutch then you don't have to worry about contamination, it's only a problem when the compressor experiences an internal failure.

The following applies to the latter scenario, internal failure. Replacing the condenser and flushing the system out is standard procedure in that case. In fact for many vehicles those rockauto.com compressor kits come with a condenser, though that doesn't seem to be the case for the XJ. (The expansion valve or orifice tube keeps debris out of the evaporator.) The drier is supposed to be replaced any time the system is opened up. Of course if you're not seeing any contamination you could take a chance that the system is clean, but if there's unseen junk present and it ruins the new compressor that will void the warranty. So that's a judgement call that only you can make.

Those so-called "recharge cans" are not the greatest thing for working on your AC. There's usually no way to purge air out of the line and of course you're only seeing the low side pressure which is not much good for diagnostic purposes. "Fill to the green" is not a good way to determine you have the correct refrigerant charge either. Really the best way when charging the system after vacuum is to use a manifold gauge set and a scale. Doesn't have to be anything fancy, there are inexpensive gauges available (some parts stores may even loan them out) and a small food scale is adequate for weighing small refrigerant cans. Another problem with those gauge-equipped echarge cans is they frequently contain sealer which can potentially harden in the wrong places and do damage. (I've seen that happen.)

You can frequently get away with just topping up the refrigerant if it's a bit low due to a slow leak. The thing to do there is to add a little refrigerant at a time while monitoring system pressures and outlet temperatures. When the AC is working OK (or pressures are going crazy due to a problem) then you stop adding refrigerant.

 

Is the clutch on these replaceable?

 

It is according to the shop manual. Rockauto lists a clutch but it is currently out of stock.

 

In my experience, I think the clutch is what fails and not the compressor. I tried replacing a clutch once and it just didn't work. After that, I just do the compressor, condenser, receiver/drier, and orings. For the cost, replacing the primary parts should take care of the problem for another 10+ yers at least. I got one of vacuum pumps and a set of "vintage" robinair gauges from ebay and have done 4 or so AC systems. The tools pay for themselves with 1 AC system redo.

 

If the compressor hasn't failed why do many replace the condenser. Just for insurance? I ordered the compressor/ dryer kit. It's so cheap i'm just going to give it a shot unless I find metal the compressor.. I'm used to working on old GM cars with an orifice tube. If it had metal in the screen you knew the compressor failed.

 

I have replaced the condenser because they are cheap and the original is 20+ years old by this point. Not mention, the condenser is what takes any rock hits etc. I suspect you'll be perfectly fine with the compressor and receiver/drier. On my '98 and '99, once I got the condenser out and looked at it closer, I was glad I replaced them. Hopefuly never have to go in there again. Overall, it's so simple compared to my Audi.

 

Before digging in I saw a you tube on removing the compressor clutch , clean it and remove the shim first before replacing anything. I did this, it was pretty dirty .Put it back together. Now I have no interior fan blower motor. Oh the joy. No blown fuse or relays that I can find. Must be a coincidence but I'm a little stumped.

 

I got the Four Seasons kit with dyer. My question is it labeled that it is pre-loaded with oil and to turn compressor up , spin in to lube front seal. After this is it ready to bolt on? It comes with a pint of oil. Confused on wht the extra oil is for? Do I add more? How much oil total goes in system? I don't have a FSM. Thanks

 

These were the instructions that came with my kit for a 1993. Not the same setup but generally should be consistent for compressors:“Drain the oil from the new compressor at the suction & discharge ports or drain plug. Verify correct oil type; details should be stated on the compressor label. Before adding oil charge, check specific application system requirements.

• Refer to the under-hood decal or OEM service manual for total oil and refrigerant charge.

• Install half of the new oil charge into the new compressor.

• Turn the compressor shaft 8-10 full rotations using a spanner wrench. This will ensure proper lubrication for the front seal and internal parts on initial startup.

• Install the remaining required oil in the receiver drier, condenser, and evaporator.”

I believe this ensures you have the correct amount of oil charged in the system. The compressor comes loaded with some oil to prevent corrosion, but you may not know the exact quantity. This is also the same method I used on a Silverado I did a few years back and it’s still working fine.

 

Ok I checked with manufacturer. The compressor is loaded with 3 ozs and is ready to go. , Holds vacuum to 20 microns.No leaks.My problem is the system will not take the freon. Even with the low pressure switch bypassed. I don't get this car.Never had this problem on any of my old muscle cars. What am I missing here?