My 1998 Cherokee Classic has a rear main leak. My very good mechanic repaired it twice but the leak returns in a few days.

I need a Jeep engine mechanic in the Sarasota to Naples area. Can you help?

 

First step would be checking that it's actually a rear main seal leak, and not the valve cover or oil filter adapter. How good is he, if he's botched this twice?

 

Thanks for the reminder about other possible sources. Within the past 2 years the filter adapter seal and valve cover gasket were replaced. Before the previous 2 repairs the mechanic looked carefully for other sources and we'll do it again as you suggest.

I'm looking for a Jeep engine mechanic because I'll guess there are some steps in the seal installation that would benefit from prior knowledge. I've read some posts about blockages in the CCV that have caused a leak at the rear main seal. We'll check that out, too. Any advice here would be appreciated.

 

If your XJ is an automatic is there any oil inside the bell housing.behind the inspection cover?

 

We'll take a close look next week when we start the work. Thanks for the suggestion. What would cause oil inside the bell housing?

 

The new seal often comes with instructions, but he may not be aware that you need to put some sealant on the rear bearing cap during reassembly. I also agree that you need to verify that it's not coming from the front of the transmission or possibly a damaged transmission cooler line. Feel around on the back of the engine block for any oil, as that would point to the leak being higher end than the rear main. Oil on the starter is almost always the oil filter adapter. I've also had an engine that slowly seeped oil on the passenger side where the head meets the block - a head gasket issue but just a nuisance leak since it's the just push rods behind there.




I have my own horror story about paying someone to do my rear main because I had my arm in a sling. It leaked worse after, and he kept blaming the CCV. A few weeks later I redid the job myself. The idiot didn't even put all the oil pan screws back in much less actually tighten them. He also broke a 1/4" chunk out of the block trying to hammer out the upper half of the seal, apparently gave up, and then only replaced the lower half of the seal.

 

Thank you. That's very helpful information.

BTW - The number in your Loctite 515 diagram is J9309-89. I saw a similar diagram (without instructions) that called for Loctite 518. The number in the Loctite 518 diagram is J9509-89. Datasheets for 515 and 518 are quite similar. Not clear if 515 or 518 matters.

 

The 518 is thicker when applying, but otherwise pretty similar and either will work fine.

 

LawsonCL: Thanks for all your good advice. I found an excellent Jeep mechanic at Cypress Lakes Auto Repair in Ft. Myers. About half the cars in this shop were Jeeps. We discussed the recommended Loctite 515 and the diagram you provided from the FSM. He tried to get the OEM rear seal as the top choice but delivery was 4 weeks. He used a Felpro seal. He also noted seepage from the oil pressure sender and replaced it.

Oh happy day. It's dry. I went to an excellent self serve car wash and the underside is now oil free.