need help...please
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: lincoln county,missouri
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hello,im new to the forum but not to the world of xj's. i have a 1992. i have been experienceing problems with it and cant find any answers anywhere else. it starts and runs great...for about 40 minutes...then it starts to cut out and stumble then dies.(doesnt matter if im driving or its idling). it wont start unless you let it set for about 20-30 minutes. i have replaced the cps...2 times now thinking i had a bad one. i have replaced the coil,because it looked to me like the spark was more orange than blue....even with the new coil it still looks the same and still shuts down. i just now realized that the distributor is from a renix jeep(dont ask,it was done before i got it). the jeep is getting plenty of fuel in the rail(no i havent done a pressure test). what am i needing to test...i tested the input to the coil,im getting 11.84 volts...the resistance from the ground to the primary on the coil is12,300 ohms. when it shuts down and wont start,it is still getting spark,thats what throws me off. any help is greatly appreciated.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 34
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From: pasco county, florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
possible the ignition module?? i know at work to test em we have to test them 4 or 5 times to let them warm up to get an accurate test.. maybe yours is failing when it warms up? then once it cools down its good to go again.. just a thought?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: lincoln county,missouri
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
how do i test the module? and will it cause a problem with it being a renix in a H.O. ?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
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From: lincoln county,missouri
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yes it still gets spark even after the jeep goes into default and shuts down. it will turn over just doesnt try to fire. then after it cools it will start and run again. it happened before,thats when i changed the crankshaft position sensor....it worked great for about a month...then started screwing up again. so i changed the cps again thinking it was bad....it still does it.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
if you getting spark at the wire after it shuts off pour a little fuel into top of throttle body not a lot just a liffle if it startys fuel pump is getting hot and locking up
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: lincoln county,missouri
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
but like i said...when it shut down i checked for fuel in the rail and it had enought pressure to blow fuel all over my hand....if the pump quit wouldnt the rail have no real pressure? all i know is that its running me nuts,i dont have money to throw at it and i really need this jeep fixed.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
but like i said...when it shut down i checked for fuel in the rail and it had enought pressure to blow fuel all over my hand....if the pump quit wouldnt the rail have no real pressure? all i know is that its running me nuts,i dont have money to throw at it and i really need this jeep fixed.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
but like i said...when it shut down i checked for fuel in the rail and it had enought pressure to blow fuel all over my hand....if the pump quit wouldnt the rail have no real pressure? all i know is that its running me nuts,i dont have money to throw at it and i really need this jeep fixed.
I would say ur O2 sensor. When u first start ur jeep its in an open loop untill it reaches temp then it uses the sensors to adjust fuel-air-and spark. U can just pull out the O2 and spray it with brake cleaner and shake it a lot to clean out all the carbon build up. My second thought would be the MAP sensor on ur fire wall. My third would be the connection on ur coil. When its running wiggle it around. With age the pins can ware down enuf to not always get contact. And u need the rubber thing on the plug to get appropriate contact. That's were I would start.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: lincoln county,missouri
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would say ur O2 sensor. When u first start ur jeep its in an open loop untill it reaches temp then it uses the sensors to adjust fuel-air-and spark. U can just pull out the O2 and spray it with brake cleaner and shake it a lot to clean out all the carbon build up. My second thought would be the MAP sensor on ur fire wall. My third would be the connection on ur coil. When its running wiggle it around. With age the pins can ware down enuf to not always get contact. And u need the rubber thing on the plug to get appropriate contact. That's were I would start.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 6
From: Baltimore, Maryland
Year: 1994 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can`t tell you what`s wrong with your XJ but as someone who took 2 1/2 years trying to fix an similar odd electrical problem I will tell you to look "outside the box"...You will find that on an XJ engine that 2-3 or even 4 different items and sensors will eventually share a common ground wire or even hot wire. For example the MAP sensor, TPS, coolant temp sensor and CPS all have a black/lt blue ground wire coming off and they then combine as one inside a heat shrinked union along the fuel rail. Once they combine it continues as a single wire. If you have a problem affecting several seemingly unrelated items try and follow the wires and see where they combine. NOW.....Here`s where my experience may be similar:
My XJ did the exact same thing..It would run great for a certain period and then ..bang..run like crap. What I eventually found out after the mentioned 2.5 years is that the TPS and the MAP sensor both have a violet/white wire coming off of them which join in one of those heat shrink things and then continue on as a single wire to the computer. What had happened in my case was that this hard heat shrinked piece had been bent and dried up and cracked inside so the wires werent doing what they were suppose to as far as transmitting the signal and when the MAP sensor picked up a change in the air pressure and would send a voltage signal to the computer this went instead to the TPS and the TPS sensor would then read this new voltage and try adjusting the gas/air mixture and the engine would start acting oddly until it cooled down enough.
In your case i would try and determine what items might activate or send a signal at the 40 minute mark and then see if those items and something else share a common union.
My XJ did the exact same thing..It would run great for a certain period and then ..bang..run like crap. What I eventually found out after the mentioned 2.5 years is that the TPS and the MAP sensor both have a violet/white wire coming off of them which join in one of those heat shrink things and then continue on as a single wire to the computer. What had happened in my case was that this hard heat shrinked piece had been bent and dried up and cracked inside so the wires werent doing what they were suppose to as far as transmitting the signal and when the MAP sensor picked up a change in the air pressure and would send a voltage signal to the computer this went instead to the TPS and the TPS sensor would then read this new voltage and try adjusting the gas/air mixture and the engine would start acting oddly until it cooled down enough.
In your case i would try and determine what items might activate or send a signal at the 40 minute mark and then see if those items and something else share a common union.
Last edited by Programbo; Oct 31, 2010 at 09:26 PM.


