ok. well first of all I do not have power doorlocks on the jeep so I doubt I have any security system but I will try it.

secondly when I rebuilt the engine I put in a new oilpump.

also I think that the distributor breaking was the first thing in the cascade of events that led me here. I think that the stator just wore out. there was a lot of grease and gunk in the distributor and I believe it wore out and when it did it caused a cascade of electrical failures.

at this point I am so clueless if someone told me that if I were to wave a black cat over the engine in a counterclockwise direction 13 times while flapping its left ear that they guarantee that would fix it, I would be looking for a black cat

 

Well at least you have a sense of humor about it.
Please let us know how you eventually get it fixed!

 

to test tps you hook up the ohmmeter to ityou can nackprobe or take sensor off but with it connected you rotate throttle shaft or keyway in sensor and you want to see a smooth ohm sweep if its all choppy and jumpy its bad...not aware of a way to test an iac i mean if the plunger is excessively pushed out and its all dirty its cheap enough to replace, a haynes manual or fsm will give good descriptions on testing all sensors

 

ok I will give it a try tonight.

 

Along freedgr's line, I'd double check the timing mark. Feel comp coming up on#1, then with a drinking straw feel for tdc and check the mark. You can also screw a fitting into the #1 hole, and use oil to find tdc with a clear vinyl tube, but that's harder than it sounds.

There's a trick using rocker crossover to get cam position. Near tdc on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust is closing while the intake is opening. You can turn the engine this way and that and get an idea of what the cam thinks is tdc, by watching the rockers.

With spark, fuel, and compression it still won't start if it's flooded. Also of course if it runs with starting fluid it's not getting fuel.

I think I did read that a faulty IAC should not cause a no-start. --V----like that clogged cat idea----V--- Worked for me once.

 

Food for thought,
I haven't pulled a dist from a 4.0 but I'm assuming its like most in that the distributor has a gear on it like a Ford or Chevy.
This gear is held in place with a roll pin.
Pull the distributor and check this roll pin.
If it sheared it the dist will never stay in time, the gear will spin on the shaft
when the oil pump gets pressure.

I had a 351M Ford seize an oil pump once and it sheared the pin.

 

Un bolt your header. And try starting it. I think I read it started a little once? And then it wouldn't anymore. Blocked cat could do that. Its another long shot but hey. Better than a black cat. (Haha. No pun intended)

 

yeah my '99 had a bad iac sometimes i have to fiddle with the gas pedal to start it and hold the rpm's above 1k for a bit until it figures out whats happening other times it starts right up fine but if i don't let it warm up it will stall out down the road...but if you have to replace the iac you have to reset your ecm get the vehicle started then drive it at least above 40mph

 

sounds like timing possible 180 out. when replacing a timing chain setting the marks correctly almost sure dist should br pointing to no6 not no1

 

well now its really messed up. I had a thought the other night. something i had not considered before. last year I had one of those remote starters put on this jeep, and I got to thinking that maybe It had gone into a shut down mode because of all the battery on and off etc. so I pushed the reset button and put it into valet mode. then tried it. it started to crank like it was going to do something and then it quit, now it won't even crank or click or anything the fuel pump relay still works when the key is turned on though and so does the door buzzer. when I put my starter button with the two alligator clips on the starter and solenoid it will crank over but not with the key. I checked the fuses and swapped relays in the engine compartment fuse box. is there a fuse or something under the dash that might have burn out?

btw I ripped out the remote starter completely. the guy who installed it used those clips that can attach wires without cutting them I have heard they cause all kinds of problems so I took them off. I did not see any wires that looked broken or burned. from what I can tell though since when I use the starter button and crank it, it must be in either the switch or else a burnt or broken wire correct? and if so there may be another wire in there that is keeping it from starting because it is broken. I really hate trying to track down wiring problems.

 

Some remote starters will do a starter anti-grind relay, but this would be an obvious thing because the starter wire from the ignition switch (usually) will be cut. This would of course need to be reattached for the engine to crank with the key, assuming you remove the remote starter completly.

Also, have you replaced the spark plugs again? It's possible that they are fouled out even if they are new since you did the rebuild. Once I pulled a customer's vehicle in the garage to have some work done and two weeks later when we were attempting to remove it from the garage it wouldn't start. Ended up needing spark plugs. They didn't look bad, but that's all we did- replace plugs and it start right up. Just a thought.

 

For a 90, thought it might help. When the Dk Grn to the starter is hot it should crank.

 

This is a renix? I know you got a new ECU but just for ****s and giggles..take it apart and inspect it?
Mine looked great on the outside but it was blown..fryed a diode on the inside lol.
Now where are you located, maybe a local member and come over and give you a hand?

 

Ok so I'm a little confused but from what I can tell it cranks and won't start? You used a noid light and the injectors are firing? You have fuel pressure? You have strong spark? You have compression? If all this is good then it has to be spark timing or valve timing. If you put an aftermarket cam in did you make sure it has the same firing order? Is it possible you got the wrong cam? Spark timing is simple because its a mechanical distributor.... The only other thing I could think of is the cam possibly not being lined up right with the crank.

 

Ignition switch? Will it fire on starting fluid? Coach