Oh yeah, those springs are dead meat... they are flat with little drooping ends...

Any recommendations on good but inexpensive springs brand/where to obtain?

 

Many have used the Dorman and report being happy with them. They come with the bushings installed.

I got the Crown, which do NOT come with the bushing installed, and wound up needing to take it to a shop to have the bushings pressed in. That was just a couple of weeks ago.

No brainer, you say? Hold on. I also replaced the spring shackles, and got to compare the originals, the Crown version (which I used), and the Dorman. The Crown looked like an exact copy of the OEM. The Dorman was clearly cheaper, and not in a good way. The metal was thinner, and the weld was poor.

So... maybe have to pay to have the bushings pressed in, or save that hassle and get a spring that may not be up to OEM standards.... OR maybe the Dorman springs are just as good? I dunno!

There's your choice.

You can get either one from Amazon, or just about anywhere online. Check the advertisers on this site.

OR, buy one of the more expensive hard-corp off-roader types.

 

I ended up going with the Dorman. I wanted to get it at Amazon with prime but they were out of stock until next week. Walmart had same price but also only had 1 in stock.

In any case, here's what I got: http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...an-leaf-spring

Cost was ~$95 per side....

Now to find the install guide around here

Thanks!

 

Keep the torch handy.

 

What do I do if I don't have a torch???

 

Where do you live? My 01 was clean and rust free so all I did was spray the bolts with PB blaster for a few days and I didn't have any problems. Now if it's a rusty mess getting a torch might be a good idea. Some people have to cut them out.

 

I'm in Austin, TX... It doesn't look to bad, rusty but not encrusted. It came from Florida originally.

I was able to get the bolts off my sister's catalytic converter without TOO much difficulty, and it has been in Austin since new in 2001...

Hope I don't get into too much trouble on this one

 

My Jeep originally came from FL as well. 0 issues so far with getting bolts out. Leaf bolts, shackle bolts and all the front arm bolts came out with my 3/8 electric impact. Now my buddy who just got a XJ, thats a different story. It started life out in FL then moved to ID then down to CA. It doesnt have much rust but man most of the bolts have been stuck and a few had to get cut off. PB blaster will be your new best friend. So I wish you the best of luck!

 

I heard that a 50% mix of ATF and acetone makes a great penetrating oil. Spray that on them a few times each day until you get your new leafs. Not to jinx you but they don't sound to bad.

 

Thanks guys, I'm going to be doing this Sat or Sun. Going to attempt to lube the slip-joint in the same epic day... good thing I have a friend with more experience...

 

Buy one.

 

I'm a bit intimidated by the torch... I'll get over it.

I appreciate everyone helping me out.

When doing the slip-joint, it looks like you can just shoot grease in there
(?)... is that sufficient, or is it important to remove the shaft as described by that guide?

 

OK, I went ahead and removed the driveshaft and lubed it up.

I noticed that on the female side, there was a missing tooth... the rest looked fine, but one tooth is gone/mostly gone... is that by design or is that broken?

 

Check the other side where it goes. No expert there here, but that might be to index it if it's been balanced, so it goes back together the same way.

 

Duh, that makes sense... shoulda checked that when it was apart :P