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My 95 Cherokee Sport has been condemnd!

Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #16  
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Year: 1995
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DO NOT WELD on the floor panels unless you can access BOTH SIDES to paint.

If you weld on one side, you'll burn off the paint on the other and if you cannot get to it to repaint it ...... it's gonna rust.

Best to use STAINLESS STEEL RIVETS and AUTOMOTIVE SEAM SEALER.

You can buy a 4'X8' sheet of 16 ga STAINLESS STEEL for probably around $150.

Cut away all the rust until you get to clean metal .... cut a patch 1" larger then the hole and put in rivets every 1". Before riveting it down put a bead of seam sealer around the edge of the hole.

DO NOT USE and silicone/RTV from Home Depot or the like .... it may contain acids that are not good for what you need to do.

I replaced the entire rear cargo floor pan with Stainless Steel.

I ripped out all the carpet and used heavy paper to create a template of the floor area, the template was used to cut the stainless steel sheet.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #17  
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Default complete carpet removal

I found this:

Originally Posted by BlackHammer
Applies to at least my 2000 xj

Seats 4 bolts each, 13mm on 3 bolts, 18 or 19mm on 1

Trim on front and rear doors - Phillips head screw driver or drill

Front kick panels - deep 11mm socket IIRC

Center console - two screws in the storage compartment. Pull the shifter head off (give it a good yank). Pop off the shifter panel and transfer case panel off with your fingers or flat head screw driver, underneath should be some miscellaneous screws.

Yank the e brake up and shimmy the center console out. Then pull out the heat/ac duct. You may need a torx 50 for the seat belts, and at the base of the rear seat there is a plastic clip on each side. You can pop them out with a flat head. Pulling the carpet may need some muscle to get it up and over the e brake.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 01:51 PM
  #18  
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Thanks, Doesnt sound to bad to lift up the carpeting.
I think the body shop people don't want to do this work because it's not an insurance job and they can't get extra money for the job. I think this is why they discouraged me from repairing it.
The carpeting seems to be doing a pretty good job in sealing the floor, but I cant image that it is safe.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #19  
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Year: 2001
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Might not be a bad idea if you can to post up some pictures of the rusted out areas...The folks that are familiar with this sort of thing probably can offer up some more detailed advice..


Oh and thanks to those who provided the links on the metal adhesives..
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #20  
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Year: 2000.1999,1996
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Originally Posted by finiteguy
I brought my Jeep in today for a brake job. The mechanic found that the rear wheel cylinders are leaking and I would need a complete brake job....not bad but that's not all. Both rear springs are broken and need to be replaced. ... but that's not all. The floor is rotted out and you can see carpeting from under the Jeep.
I brought it to a body shop and he discouraged me from trying to have the floor repaired. He said I would spend at least $2,000 and there would still be rust in other areas.
The brakes and springs will probably cost around $500. Can't see spending $2500 - $3000. The Jeep has 99k miles. It's unfortunate because I like the Jeep. I won't buy a new one because I have heard that they have poor reliablity.
Yup go buy something else angd give your jeep to someone that knows about them.Name:  icon_urinal.gif
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:26 PM
  #21  
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From: Memphis,TN area
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: ERH 4.0L 16 Power Tech
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Originally Posted by finiteguy
If I try to repair the floor, I still have to remove the carpeting, correct?
I can pop rivet the plating from the inside but I need to know how much work is involved in taking up the carpeting. The job doesnt need to be perfect, I just want to be safe. Having the capeting the only thinkg between me and the road would seem unsafe.
There is some very good advice in the preceding posts. If you are serious about repairing the Jeep yourself I highly recommend the Jeep Service manual pertaining to your year. It is a factory approved and published by them manual. Haynes and Chilton's use the shotgun approach and try to cover a number of years and models in a single volume. Inaccuracies are no uncommon.

The factory manual covers everything you need to know from lubricants to overhauls. There is an interior section that covers R&R of the interior components. They are a bit pricey at just over $100 but worth every penny.

The discount big box stores have a decent price on ratchet and wrench set. There is always Harbor Freight as well.

The rust isn't really dangerous until A. It reaches the area where your seat is attached. B. Your exhaust system begins to leak and the fumes make it into the vehicle.

Best of luck with the project(s) and let us know if you need help sorting it out. Also keep us posted on your progress.

WM
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:32 PM
  #22  
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Give you $300 for it.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:16 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 413maxwedge
Yup go buy something else angd give your jeep to someone that knows about them.Attachment 40777
not for sale. If I decide to get rid of the jeep i will donate it to a local vocational school and get the tax deduction. I gave them my 98 Grand Maquis and they valued it at $2000.00

Last edited by finiteguy; Mar 12, 2011 at 11:21 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #24  
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[QUOTE=HCCAFan;906598]Give you $300 for it.[/QUOTE
no, i would want more.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 413maxwedge
Yup go buy something else angd give your jeep to someone that knows about them.Attachment 40777
You are trying to provoke hostility with your post. You should be removed.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #26  
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He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you. -Friedrich Nietzsche

in other words, ignore the trolls.

Good luck with your project! Keep us informed of your progress.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #27  
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Attached are some photos of my 95XJ rotted floor problem. I used an old No Parking sign to temporarily block one of the larger holes. I think I can fix this. The frame is still solid.


Attached Images
Attached Images     
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by finiteguy
You are trying to provoke hostility with your post. You should be removed.
well if you dont think their any good you should get something else,that is what you said.(Looks like you should be removed < I guess I hurt your feelings )Name:  cry.gif
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DaddyCat
He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you. -Friedrich Nietzsche

in other words, ignore the trolls.

Good luck with your project! Keep us informed of your progress.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 05:43 PM
  #30  
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bipolar meds not working? You give the OP a hard time, when any normal person can see he is frustrated, worried and in need of help. Then a few moments later on a different thread by the same OP about the same subject you're nice and helpful. What a maroon.
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