New to the forum! Chasing a weird misfire, couldn’t find a related thread. Any insight is appreciated!

1998 Cherokee Classic auto, 282k on chassis, motor overhauled about 2k miles ago, not original transmission.

jeep has a severe misfire and bucks only in the first 4 or 5 minutes of driving on both cold starts and warm starts. Weird thing: the misfire goes away suddenly and the jeep has TONS of power as soon as the throttle is opened 100%, OR when RPM exceeds around 3200. After 4 or 5 minutes, the misfire goes away and it runs great with loads of power at any throttle %. It idles smooth as silk all the time and starts up with no issues consistently.

Here is what I’ve done to the 4.0L the last year or so:
alternator - AC Delco reman
TPS - behavior consistent with two different units
MAP - behavior consisten with two different units
fuel pump
injectors - behavior consistent with two different sets
O2 - behavior consistent with O2 unplugged
NSS
Speedo sensor
oil pressure sender
plugs - basic NGK
coil - spectra
wires - AC Delco
distributor with cam sensor - cheap amazon brand
brake switch
flasher relay
new battery terminals and cables, + and -.
squeaky clean engine bay grounds.

Some quirks and details that may or may not be related:
significant engine vibration around 1200-2500 RPM when stationary OR moving.
horn and cruise control work.
flashers / blinkers work.
oil pressure reads normally at 0% throttle around 20 psi idle and 40 psi cruising, but drops to about 5 psi with any amount of throttle, I assume a faulty sender.
headlights stay on if ignition is turned off before the headlight switch. Headlights MUST be turned off before ignition.
It starts up like a brand new car, cold or hot motor.
OBD II live data shows TPS signal increasing gradually and smoothly with application of the throttle, and MAP is within the ballpark of reality.

because the misfire goes away with 100% throttle, I assume it is some closed loop / open loop sensor issue. It could be grounds in the cab, but my biggest suspect is the cam position sensor in that crappy distributor, and would appreciate some insight if anyone has managed to read this far! Thanks

 

The bold parts are important, yes, I agree that suspect distributor would be suspect so get another, or used one, and replace it

There is no way I would ignore that OP reading, it must be verified with an mechanical gauge or replacement sender, no if or buts

Likewise a significant engine vibration simply cannot be ignored, maybe that Crank sensor is being disrupted by a damaged flex plate (just as a for instance),
look down at the harmonic balancer with the engine running, a known weakness, you really dont want that letting go

The headlights should turn off 90 secs after switch is turned of, and this is accomplished by a headlight delay module under the dash