So, I’m in the middle of installing the so-called Rough Country Clone lift.
Just finished the front end. In addition to replacing the coil springs I also replaced the ball joints. Springs are a *****. After cussing and toiling during the driver side change I decided to disconnect the lower control arm on the passenger side to lower axle even further. Made a world of difference along with the customary disconnecting of the sway bar links.
I decided not to put the new Monroe shocks on because I checked the driver side shock (I have a set of Bilstiens about 3 years old) and it seemed okay. The passenger side was really hard to retract so now I’m leaning towards replacing all of them.
Any how, to the point, after putting everything back together and throwing the tires on I took it for a short spin. Nice ride so far. Looking at it in the driveway the drivers side tire sticks out of wheel well more than passenger side. I know it shouldn’t be that way and am curious what’s going on. I don’t know if it was like that before and I didn’t notice or what. Also, measuring from floor to bottom of wheel well the drivers side is approximately 33” and passenger side I’d just over 32”. Wondering if the overly stiff shock has anything to do with it or is something else going on.
A lot more needs replaced at some point but so far within the last year I’ve done ball joints, wheel bearings, axle u joints, coil springs with 3/4” spacer, sway bar links, track bar.
Any ideas on axle misalignment and differing heights?
Thanks

 

Sounds like you might need an adjustable track bar that you can lengthen. As you raise the suspension, the entire axle assembly gets pulled a bit to the drivers side since the track bar is at an angle relative to the axle. How much is your lift in the front? What kind of track bar did you put on?

 

If it has been lifted, the axle will shift to the driver side. An adjustable track bar will fix that

 

I just replaced the coil springs with Moog OEM springs off Amazon. Also added the 3/4” spacer. I dont think the spacer actually adds the lift it was supposed to because the coil collar that was on the Jeep had deteriorated and I removed it.
I just replaced the track bar a few months ago with an OEM part.
I know the springs will settle eventually back to normal factory ride height. Do I want to buy an adjustable track bar anyway?
thanks

 

The only reason you'd really need one is if you're getting rubbing on one side at full steering lock and/or front suspension compression.

 

Thank you for the input. I do not detect any rubbing or compression to speak of.

Next question I have is as I’m now moving to rear leaf springs. The shocks are off, the spring plates are off. Do I need the rear sway bar for a daily driver? There are conflicting opinions on this.

Thanks again all

 

You could go without the rear sway, if you have the front connected still go for it. I just removed mine when I did the leafs. It definitely has a tad more roll in the rear now but it's not enough to make it sketchy. When I bought it the front was disconnected and that was far more troublesome than the rear. Also definitely buy an adjustable bar. I'd recommend the rough country adjustable unit, you can adjust it without having to remove any ball joints. I really like mine.

With the lift kit in the instructions it usually suggests to drill a new hole for your stock track bar about 1 or 2 inches to the right of the existing hole to align the axle. I certainly would take care of that.

Here's the bar I am running..

https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-...-xj-4wd-736034

It works like the drag link which makes adjusting 100x easier.

 

What are the opinions of those who say you don't need it?

Lifting the XJ makes the center of gravity even higher, thus increasing the need to keep the rear sway bar in place. Even in a DD, there are times when you have to steer out of trouble, find yourself going into a curve too fast, etc.

It's all about risk/benefit.

 

I guess I’ll keep it on. The bushings need replaced.

 

Thanks. I’ll order one.

 

I have no rear sway bar, drives ok for a truck. sure it is not like my Porsche, but I dont drive the jeep like a Porsche

I learned that the leaf spring U bolts and nuts are supposed to be a one use item, as the torque needed to hold things tight is enough to distort the threads, making subsequent reuse bad as a true torque valve maybe set wrong do to thread deformation. For an off road jeep, I recommend over sized U bolts and nuts so you can really clamp down on the leaf spring, else the spring leaves can be loose and "fan out" of the leaf stack. also the top plate that the U bolt passes thru which clamps the spring to the axle, the stock plate is very wimpy and can bend, which when it bends, loosens the U bolt, so get a beefer plate for the Ubolt. I made one out of a 3/4 inch thick plate, it did not bend, unlike the 1/4 inch wimpy plate that was there prior.

 

U bolt link...

http://beta2.daytonparts.com/info_site/T-Rod_U-Bolts_Preview.aspx?deptVar=Products&ItemVar=DP%20P roducts%20Preview!&ItemVar2=U-Bolts%20and%20T-Rod


https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/u-bolts?msclkid=736bb47dafd91e11cb7dd4d2a2bb659c&utm _source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=U-Bolts&utm_term=u%20bolt&utm_content=Generic%20U-Bolt%20Terms

 

Just in case I’m confusing folks I want to be clear as to what work I’m doing. I’m not exactly installing a lift kit. I purchased items listed for what is called a rough country lift “clone”. I got the list off of a thread on here.
The Dorman leaf springs are stock replacements for sagging springs. I did also purchase adjustable shackles in case I want to lift the rear after the new leafs start to sag.
I was going to reuse the U bolts but as suggested I just ordered new from Amazon since they’ll be here in 2 days. I also replaced the coil springs with Moog stock replacements plus a 3/4” spacer which ended up just replacing the rotted coil collar so not much of a spacer now. The axle does appear to be a tad to the driver side but not by a whole lot. I can post pics if that’ll help.

Im confused about this adjustable track bar. If I get the one you adjust by turning the end how do I move the axle enough to get the bolt in? And do I need the adjustable bar that you can adjust without detaching the adjusting end? As it seems this is for 4-6” lifts.

The parts I installed only give an inch or so lift over stock until things settle, from what I understand.

Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I’m not spending money and adding work to something that I don’t need to. I gotta get this DD back in the road.

Thanks

 

Bump

 

I got CC782 coils with 1 1/4" spacers (net should be ~3/4" extra lift) and using the stock track bar w/o an issue. IMO you should be OK with the stock track bar.