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maximizing 4.0 engine output

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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #31  
weight312's Avatar
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What all is involved in ressetting the ecu? ..I'm liking all of these good clean legal ways of boosting hp. New to me.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 01:35 PM
  #32  
CAEMI's Avatar
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From: Detroit, MI
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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See if you can get your money back on the K&N and spend it on gears...that is the best performance mod you can do.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #33  
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K&N was cheap.. just bought the filter and did the rest of the rigging / fabrication myself. by gears do you mean altering the transmission?
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 02:08 PM
  #34  
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by weight312
K&N was cheap.. just bought the filter and did the rest of the rigging / fabrication myself. by gears do you mean altering the transmission?
Regearing the diffs
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #35  
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ah gotcha. Well my hands are kinda tied there. my jeep is my daily driver and my daily commute to work is over 80 miles round trip so I need to maintain highway driveability. my whole goal was just to see what all i could do to make sure that after 200k miles my engine is still performing the best it can.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #36  
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From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
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Originally Posted by 98jeepsrt6
not much you can really do to free it up...
Have you changed injectors to 784's? 4 hole injectors

Also the only way ive been able to free it up is taken out the a/c system and also the mechanical fan clutch.. I have noticed a great difference in response and engine stress.. But really theres not much we can do to gain much extra power/torque.
Like i stated before there very little that can be done to free up extra poni's. To keep it running in top shape is to leave it "stock" and keep on top of your regular maintinance needs..
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 07:58 PM
  #37  
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From: Rochester
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by brutalxj
Turbo
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 02:50 AM
  #38  
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From: Illinois
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by no rdplz
Guarantee that the O2 is what helped your mpg. Resetting your ECU allows your computer to "relearn" the necessary fuel trim levels based on how you drive over the next 50 warm up cycles. Whoever said it was optional for you to still get the best results is, and I mean this honestly, a moron. You're supposed to reset your ECU after any and every change to air/fuel mixture amounts. That would include any intake, TB, exhaust, injector, and/or cylinder modification.
I don't understand how this works, I guess. If the ECU relearns in 50 drive cycles after a reset, why won't the ECU relearn in 50 drive cycles without a reset? My understanding is that the ECU constantly relearns based on feedback it is receiving from all of the various sensors. Is this not the case?
If you change your air filter, do you need to reset the ECU? Won't less restriction from a clean filter affect fuel trim?
Please explain how this all works. I thought I understood how adaptive memory works, but apparently, I don't and the techs who explained it to me don't either.

Last edited by wildbill1; Dec 18, 2010 at 03:21 AM. Reason: ETA
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 03:16 AM
  #39  
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From: Seabrook, New Hampshire
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by honesT
I was told that it was to save money on the production end of things but no theory to back it up...
Regarding the 80 grit intake and smooth exhaust porting, I'm referring to aftermarket work.
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 11:53 PM
  #40  
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Engine: l6
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I had my head professionally ported/polished and did the intake myself, I read the post about the 80 grit before hand, but if you've ever de-gunked an intake with 200k plus it's easy to see why polishing is important in the long run. There was an 1/8 inch plus of accumulated goo, using anything but a polish will only hasten this condition. I got a measurable response (although I didn't actually "measure" it) from the work I did. Admittedly, I also added dyno max headers and pipes.....also adjusted the kickdown and upgraded fuel injectors, but I am here to tell you, short of stroking it, it's the way to go (and I am coveting a block to stroke.....cause it just ain't enough!) /
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 12:11 AM
  #41  
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From: Coquitlam, B.C.
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 2Evil4U
Questions.

Would you calculate the reduction in compression ratio that results from removing that much material from the combustion chamber in the head? How would you get it back?

Would you take into account the reduction in air velocity through the intake manifold and consider that you could possibly reduce the combustion efficiency by opening up the ports that much?

Sorry I have no answer other than I was just throwing ideas out there. The pictures were from a stroker engine, If you have a stock engine just sanding to make it smooth is called polishing I think ??? Again I`m not recommending you do this just given what I`ve heard. I think a Cold air intake would be more than enough on a stock engine.

My opinion about throttle body upgrade: Carb only as the gas could use more swirl and time to mix with the air but MPI needs no such gismo.... This makes sense to me anyway but I`m no scientist

Last edited by honesT; Dec 21, 2010 at 11:18 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #42  
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From: Coquitlam, B.C.
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by maxxoccupancy
Regarding the 80 grit intake and smooth exhaust porting, I'm referring to aftermarket work.
80 grit for the finish on the intake. The theory seems to be that the rougher surface prevents the air from "sticking" to the walls.
Ok I get what you mean now, Use 80 grit and nothing smoother or the air will stick to the walls...

Last edited by honesT; Dec 20, 2010 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 02:55 AM
  #43  
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From: Ridgecrest California
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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You can always add a couple RUBICON stickers...I heard they add like 55hp right out of the envelope :P
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