You might see if there is a mobile mechanic in your area. Short of making sure it's identical to the other side, that frozen adjuster could be your problem. Since it came off OK, maybe not the adjuster though.

Thanks again for the replies, I read everything even though I didn't reply to everyone.

I found a place selling a kit containing the adjuster so I put that in and now it makes more sense. I was able to put the drums back on and it looks even now.

I was about to bleed until I noticed I don't have a wrench small enough to fit on the bleeder valve (these are so small wtf) and was too scared of breaking something again to try with vice grips. At this point I'm pretty tired of all this so I decided to replace as much fluid as possible in the master cylinder and give the rear brakes a go while spinning the tires while still on jack stands. Nothing unusual for now, it brakes but I still need to adjust the adjusting screw because the wheel keeps spinning slowly while applying the brakes (could be a sign of air in the line though right?). I bought some brake lube, should I just cover all the parts and call it a day?

I'll go for a little drive in the parking lot later on and see if it's manageable for now.

Well call it a day when you want but nothing is fixed until it's fixed. The wheels are probably still turning because the rear drum has not been adjusted yet. Even if there isn't any air in the line and the brakes haven't been adjusted, the wheels won't stop. The adjuster pushes the shoes out so that they make the circle instead of an oval. This is paramount to get the correct amount of drag on your drums so that all the brake system needs to do is provide the pressure. Maybe you lucked out and there isn't any air in the system and that cylinder your popped didn't actually brake and everything will work fine. Gotta do that adjustment tho man or else even the e brake won't work.

turn the adjuster until the drum starts to rub on the shoes

then you'll at least have ebrake for when the fluid test fails

I adjusted it to where it was previously (the old stuck one), turned the wheel and adjusted one last time.

I tried it in the parking lot a bit and then went out on small roads. I can definitely tell there is air in the system, the pedal is spongy as they say. I'd say I have 80% of the braking I had before this event. Tomorrow I'll take care of bleeding with the right tools.

Getting a really good grip, with Vice-Grip band vice grip, (not another brand), will first slip on the first crisp pop with your palm. Now you have a little more meat. If clamping on tight again doesn't do it you need to try to bleed at the line in nut, or replace the cylinder.

With the bleeder loose it should gravity bleed. Just let it run and watch the Res.

There use to be other tools made like baby pipe wrenches....last one I had was stolen from me in 1974!

At least they mostly work. Use the e brake to compensate if you need to. I believe it is an 8mm wrench that fits the bleeder valve. Same size as for zerk fitting I think. If youre at the auto store, pick up a brake line wrench as well. It is meant to fit over brake line nuts perfectly, a normal wrench will slip a little and can strip them.

I think I'll got with a bleeder wrench to make sure. My vice grips are working fine but I don't think they're the real ones, so I won't take the risk.

I was born about 20 years later, so it couldn't have been me!

Yep that's what I'll do, hopefully this works out.

Thanks again!

When/if all the correct stuff fails, you have a good excuse to go buy some real vice-grips! Yes maybe muck up the bleeder, but easy enough to screw another in if you care to.

Take doors off and use your foot brake... Who needs drums or discs? ever heard of Fred Flintstone?

I'll stand solid there, a six point Proto or SK, whatever, you name it. A good grip with real Vice Grips is what works on the tough ones. :guns: