Sure there is. Money and elbow grease. Lots of both.

 

if ur gonna get a new engine....might as well upgrade!!!

 

^^^^^THIS!!!!!^^^^

 

Hell yeah!

 

see....why bother with a 4 slow when you could have a beast...like this guy... vroom vroom

 

id rather stick with maybe a lightly modified 4.0 like bolt ons only. in my area i have emissions. plus i dont want to have to wire or fabricate **** up.

 

wiring and fabricating...but the you get to feel that unibody flex and torque when u punch it lol....its way more practical to just put another 4.0 in tho

 

yeah thats why im sticking with the 4.0. im guna try new rods and mains first

 

Big block swap... Big block SWAP... BIG BLOCK SWAAAAAAAP!

 

And a full frame after you get done un twisting that pretzel of a unit body

 

mild build with a few frame stiffeners, good to go lol

 

Lol and with this comment, I recommend you send a PM to FrankZ and tell him the same thing.

Also, when I get around to my swap, I'll take pictures when my Jeep folds like a taco.

 

not to be rude cause i think its all funny, but can we get back on topic with the comments

 

I'm finishing up some work right now and will have that list for you in a few hours.


(my father and grandfather stuffed a 350 into a 57' ****** CJ3a, see my avatar/pic. IT WAS AWESOME. The thing is located in a barn not far from me, has been for 20 years, and the old guy isn't ready to part with it. Someday, it will come home to me)

 

All that you will need to replace those lifters.

1. The lifters (duh)
2. Replacement head bolts (optional, but I HIGHLY suggest you use new ones)
3. New head gasket
4. Intake/exhaust manifold gasket. (it’s one gasket)
5. Antifreeze (you will be draining the coolant, good time for a flush)
6. Teflon thread sealer
7. 13mm deepwell socket
8. Torque wrench capable of measuring 120ft. lbs. (you can 'rent' these from parts stores. You own a jeep, this is a good investment)
9. Valve cover gasket (optional)
10. The Factory Service Manual pages for head removal and replacement. (I can send you a copy of those pages.)
11. Oil (gotta change it)
12. Filter (this too)

The headbolt located nearest the driver (against the firewall) is too tall to clear the firewall. I used an angle grinder and cut off the protruding stud. The ground strap is attached here, but you can easily relocate it to the fuel rail mount. The ground works just as well. When reinstalling, I cut the new bolt as well. It makes it easy to get the 13mm socket on for torquing.
It took a solid day for me to do this my first time. I had the head off in less than an hour, and back on in less than 3 the second time.
Price the parts listed above and see if you are still going to go ahead with the project. If you are, I can provide a step by step list from start to finish for you.
Good luck.