At a loss...
Senior Member




Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 737
Likes: 31
From: Alaska
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Check engine light? Trouble codes? A vacuum leak could trigger a P0171 code. You can use a can of ether (starting fluid) to help find a vacuum leak. Give quick shots around the intake manifold gasket, TB gasket or brake booster hose. If the engine revs up, you've found your leak. Use caution and check with a cold motor if you value your eyebrows. The stuff is quite flammable.
Check engine light? Trouble codes? A vacuum leak could trigger a P0171 code. You can use a can of ether (starting fluid) to help find a vacuum leak. Give quick shots around the intake manifold gasket, TB gasket or brake booster hose. If the engine revs up, you've found your leak. Use caution and check with a cold motor if you value your eyebrows. The stuff is quite flammable.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you retain the '96 distributor?
The '96 distributor is different from the '98 distributor (by part number) and the PCM may be having a hard time recognizing the Cam Sensor signals.
If you installed a '98 Cam Sensor in the '96 distributor there may be a problem. I'm not sure but the pluse ring in the '96 distributor may not be compatible with a '98 Cam Sensor.
The DTC code P1391 may be the clue to your problem.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
I love the way needed information is left out until many posts later, and non important info is sprinkled in. It makes for a good mystery, but sucks when trying to diagnose a problem.
What are you referring to as a 'pick-up coil'? The Camsfaft Position Sensor?
Did you retain the '96 distributor?
The '96 distributor is different from the '98 distributor (by part number) and the PCM may be having a hard time recognizing the Cam Sensor signals.
If you installed a '98 Cam Sensor in the '96 distributor there may be a problem. I'm not sure but the pluse ring in the '96 distributor may not be compatible with a '98 Cam Sensor.
The DTC code P1391 may be the clue to your problem.
Did you retain the '96 distributor?
The '96 distributor is different from the '98 distributor (by part number) and the PCM may be having a hard time recognizing the Cam Sensor signals.
If you installed a '98 Cam Sensor in the '96 distributor there may be a problem. I'm not sure but the pluse ring in the '96 distributor may not be compatible with a '98 Cam Sensor.
The DTC code P1391 may be the clue to your problem.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It is a 96 distributor, and I still have the 96 camshaft position sensor (pick-up). I will change them out and see if there is a difference. Forgive me for being flustered. While I guess the slight difference in the sensors (96 v. 98) could make a difference timing wise, could it make so much of a problem as my symptoms suggest? It wouldnt neccesarily cause my electrical issues right? Im trying to be as helpful and studious as possible

As stated above, the '96 distributor Cam Sensor pulse ring (part of the distributor shaft) may not be compatible with a '98 Cam Sensor.
The Cam Sensor does play a roll in the ignition system, as well as the fuel injection system. The flexplate has three sets of slots that trigger the CPS as to which set of cylinders are in line for firing. The Cam Sensor signals the PCM as to exactly which cylinder is in firing position, so the PCM fires the ignition coil at the right time and activates the fuel injector at the right time.
I'd have to review your electrical issues to see if I could help.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You said you checked the grounds. How did you check all the grounds in the engine bay? Detach all wire ring terminals and clean them?
Have you had issues with getting water in the right front passenger footwell? Has your Jeep been for a swim?
The headlamp issues may be corroded bulb contacts or the front lighting connector below the air filter box is internally corroded.
If all three brake lamps are inop the brake lamp switch may be defective. A defective brake lamp switch may also affect the trans TC Lock-Up.
What jungle of wiring? Has someone put in an aftermarket remote start, radio, or security system?
You said you checked the grounds. How did you check all the grounds in the engine bay? Detach all wire ring terminals and clean them?
Have you had issues with getting water in the right front passenger footwell? Has your Jeep been for a swim?
The headlamp issues may be corroded bulb contacts or the front lighting connector below the air filter box is internally corroded.
If all three brake lamps are inop the brake lamp switch may be defective. A defective brake lamp switch may also affect the trans TC Lock-Up.
You said you checked the grounds. How did you check all the grounds in the engine bay? Detach all wire ring terminals and clean them?
Have you had issues with getting water in the right front passenger footwell? Has your Jeep been for a swim?
The headlamp issues may be corroded bulb contacts or the front lighting connector below the air filter box is internally corroded.
If all three brake lamps are inop the brake lamp switch may be defective. A defective brake lamp switch may also affect the trans TC Lock-Up.
I removed all grounds I could get to, degreased, scrubbed, and lubed them up, tightened them real good.
The water in the right front passenger footwell is a YES. When I bought it, it had snowed and the owner left the window down. A puddle had formed. I dried it the best I could. Why? What am I looking at? That was not really a jeep swim, but pneumonia.
I will check bulbs and contacts and lighting connector. Airbox pops right out? I just figured headlights wouldnt work at all, not vice-versa, dim v. high.
I figured on the brake switch. That could affect the TC? Never heard that. How? If that is so, Im excited for a possible light and TC fix for $20.
I really do appreciate all of this. Work is more fun when I learn.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No aftermarket wiring. Just factory.
I removed all grounds I could get to, degreased, scrubbed, and lubed them up, tightened them real good.
Lubed with what? Hope it wasn't Dielectric grease. Nothing could be worse. You're better off having no lubricant on the ring terminals, except Ox-Gard or NOALOX. (Lowe's/Home Depot) which are designed for this purpose. If you used Dielectric grease, remove it.
During an engine change, some ground connections may be overlooked. The two that come to mind are the connections at the coil mount studs and the strap between the firewall nd the #14 cylinder head studbolt.
The water in the right front passenger footwell is a YES. When I bought it, it had snowed and the owner left the window down. A puddle had formed. I dried it the best I could. Why? What am I looking at? That was not really a jeep swim, but pneumonia.
I ask this because there have been cases of the Junction Block getting soaked then corroded, causing many odd malfunctions. After all inspections, checks, etc. have been accomplished, remove the cover off the JB and see if there's any green crud ozzing out of the fuse holders or connectors, and if neccessary, remove the large connector with the bolt (C4) and inspect it for corrosion.
I will check bulbs and contacts and lighting connector. Airbox pops right out? I just figured headlights wouldnt work at all, not vice-versa, dim v. high.
Yes, the air filter box is held in with one nut and two bolts at the bottom.
I figured on the brake switch. That could affect the TC? Never heard that. How? If that is so, Im excited for a possible light and TC fix for $20.
The Brake Lamp Switch has several functions. The switch contacts inside the switch for the TC Lock-Up, Shift Lock Solenoid, Stop Lamps, and Cruise Control are normally closed with the brake not applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the switch contacts open, and opening these circuits. If the TC Lock-Up contacts are open you will not be Overdrive Lock-Up.
Edit: Correction - The Stop Lamp contacts are normally open and when the brake pedal is depressed, the contacts for the Stop Lamps in the Brake Lamp Switch close.
I really do appreciate all of this. Work is more fun when I learn.
I removed all grounds I could get to, degreased, scrubbed, and lubed them up, tightened them real good.
Lubed with what? Hope it wasn't Dielectric grease. Nothing could be worse. You're better off having no lubricant on the ring terminals, except Ox-Gard or NOALOX. (Lowe's/Home Depot) which are designed for this purpose. If you used Dielectric grease, remove it.
During an engine change, some ground connections may be overlooked. The two that come to mind are the connections at the coil mount studs and the strap between the firewall nd the #14 cylinder head studbolt.
The water in the right front passenger footwell is a YES. When I bought it, it had snowed and the owner left the window down. A puddle had formed. I dried it the best I could. Why? What am I looking at? That was not really a jeep swim, but pneumonia.
I ask this because there have been cases of the Junction Block getting soaked then corroded, causing many odd malfunctions. After all inspections, checks, etc. have been accomplished, remove the cover off the JB and see if there's any green crud ozzing out of the fuse holders or connectors, and if neccessary, remove the large connector with the bolt (C4) and inspect it for corrosion.
I will check bulbs and contacts and lighting connector. Airbox pops right out? I just figured headlights wouldnt work at all, not vice-versa, dim v. high.
Yes, the air filter box is held in with one nut and two bolts at the bottom.
I figured on the brake switch. That could affect the TC? Never heard that. How? If that is so, Im excited for a possible light and TC fix for $20.
The Brake Lamp Switch has several functions. The switch contacts inside the switch for the TC Lock-Up, Shift Lock Solenoid, Stop Lamps, and Cruise Control are normally closed with the brake not applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the switch contacts open, and opening these circuits. If the TC Lock-Up contacts are open you will not be Overdrive Lock-Up.
Edit: Correction - The Stop Lamp contacts are normally open and when the brake pedal is depressed, the contacts for the Stop Lamps in the Brake Lamp Switch close.
I really do appreciate all of this. Work is more fun when I learn.
Last edited by CCKen; Dec 26, 2014 at 04:12 PM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: north of the Rio Grande, south of the Red, east of the Pecos, west of the Sabine
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Oh.....okay...well, it sounds like a TPS problem. Maybe it needs replacing. As I understand it, a faulty TPS won't always throw a fault code. Should be able to check it with an analog volt/ohm meter as it's opened and closed to see that the voltage (or resistance) changes uniformly, with no bad or flat spots.
Brake light switch replaced. Shifter moves great, brake lights work.
TPS was replaced, and checked out ok. Ran jeep and no change.
Ive kept the old OEM parts. I am going to change out the new pick-up and CPS with the old ones, one at a time and then both at a time, to check on the p1391.
Ordered upstream o2 sensor, on its way.
Not going to change the IAC or MAP yet. Hoping my problem will be fixed with my old pick-up and CPS.
Going to check grounds, wires, bulbs, and connections to headlights and speedo tomorrow.
Did I mention that whenever the engine is revved, it comes back down (after a second) awfully slowly?
TPS was replaced, and checked out ok. Ran jeep and no change.
Ive kept the old OEM parts. I am going to change out the new pick-up and CPS with the old ones, one at a time and then both at a time, to check on the p1391.
Ordered upstream o2 sensor, on its way.
Not going to change the IAC or MAP yet. Hoping my problem will be fixed with my old pick-up and CPS.
Going to check grounds, wires, bulbs, and connections to headlights and speedo tomorrow.
Did I mention that whenever the engine is revved, it comes back down (after a second) awfully slowly?


