Lets see your roof rack lights!! (idea's)
#1
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Year: 2000
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0 liter
Lets see your roof rack lights!! (idea's)
I bought 4 lights for my custom roof rack im making. I wanna know how far i should mount them and how high i should mount them. I want to look at different peoples lights to get ideas.
And How the **** did you wire them??? Where did you ground them and where did you route the wires down to your switches?!
And How the **** did you wire them??? Where did you ground them and where did you route the wires down to your switches?!
#2
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Year: 1996-1997
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Engine: I-6,4.0-246000+miles
top on is for the top lights,bottem is for reverse lightsan the one for the front are here...80 bucks for 8 lights heavy gage wire an lighted switches
#3
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Oh, also what gauge wire should i use? Because i know i am going to have to get more wire. The lights i got came with wire and switches.
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i think 12.....i also will be making a roof rack an will put lights on that an probaly totaly inclose them, i have all 10 on one relay....an a fuse from relay to battery, an 1 fuse for every 2 lights going from each set to the switch
#5
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Four 55w HID's in KC Daylighter housings, two are 5000K and two are 6000K. Light bar is from jcroffroad.com and powder coated black by Denver's Blue Flame powdercoating. I like it because the lights hang rather than stand up, so the bar takes the brunt of any branches from low-lying trees. Used 8ga wiring from a 40 amp fuse up the passenger side pillar to a 50 amp relay for the four ballasts between my roof and headliner, drilled four holes in my cieling for the wiring and sealed it with rubber grommets and RTV. Switches from OTRATTW.com run to relays for the rest of my accessories. The ground is run directly from the negative terminal of my secondary battery for isolation, but if you get out a multimeter and check resistance you can usually find a great nearby ground.
I've spoken with Colorado State Patrol and I'm allowed to have the lights uncovered as long as I never turn them on on the road. Each light puts out about 4600 lumens (accurately measured with a Minolta LS-100 spot meter). I can leave them on for about 20 minutes before the rubber seal in the housings start to get soft from the heat.
I've spoken with Colorado State Patrol and I'm allowed to have the lights uncovered as long as I never turn them on on the road. Each light puts out about 4600 lumens (accurately measured with a Minolta LS-100 spot meter). I can leave them on for about 20 minutes before the rubber seal in the housings start to get soft from the heat.
Last edited by alpine.adrenaline; 05-07-2010 at 03:03 PM.
#6
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see, i REALLY REALLY REALLY dont want to drill holes in roof. Where do you ground them wires and how do i route them down to the switches with out drilling holes in my car.
#7
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I think the more conventional way is along the pillar on the driver's side. There are more access points on the firewall if you run a hardwire to your battery. Then, it just comes out at the back or front corner of your driver's side door into or onto the light bar. Like I said, you can ground anywhere the resistance between your battery and the metal surface is 0 (and the metal is suitable... don't use painted surfaces and scuff your contact points). If you can find one in the cieling cross-braces, drill a hole and sandwich an eyelet with a screw.
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#11
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The glare maybe? I cracked it... Not sure what you mean...
http://www.OTRATTW.com. Their switches are awesome though I wish they would switch to LED backlighting instead of the little incandescent bulbs. Have to give credit to FitchVA (www.fitchva.com) for the switch box, built it with a relay box as well. Those project enclosures from Radio Shack are great.
#15
The gauge wire you use depends on the amps or watts of your lights, and the length of wire you are going to use. Here's a chart to help you decide.