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-   -   Leaky Jeep *PICS* (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/leaky-jeep-pics-236467/)

uptownbill 06-08-2017 02:44 PM

Leaky Jeep *PICS*
 
5 Attachment(s)
So I've been storing my NYC jeep at home in Minnesota for the Winter and have finally been back to take a look.

There's many things wrong with this heap:

Attachment 407262

It'll be getting the full lift/tires treatment later this year.

For now, I've discovered a slight oil leak near the rear main and drain plug. You can see it beaded up here:

Attachment 407263

Attachment 407264

When I get further to the other side I see that the bolt goes to nowhere:

Attachment 407265

Is that normal???

Also the diff is leaking but am planning to swap this gasket and cover when doing Big John's disc swap:

Attachment 407266

any ideas?

:bangin::bangin:

OldTires 06-08-2017 03:24 PM

Too many things wrong with that heap... I'll take it off your hands for $300. :thumbup:

fijicorey25 06-08-2017 03:28 PM

Looks like my oil leak! Mine is a rear main seal and only leaks a little bit. Not worth replacing right now. However, yours could also be the valve cover gasket or something else. The best thing to do is clean it up real good and try to trace the leak from the top then make your way down.

As far as the diff goes, just replace your fluid and use RTV to make a new gasket. Here's a great video:

OldTires 06-08-2017 03:45 PM

On the differential cover, that is a rubber plug that dries up and cracks over time, allowing the slow leak from the plug hole. Just replace it. But like the previous post says, take off the cover, clean and inspect inside, and reinstall cover with fresh RTV, followed by fresh gear oil.

uptownbill 06-08-2017 03:54 PM

thanks all

will follow lord bleepin's instructions

anyone know about the bolt to nowhere? is that normal or should it be threaded all the way through that hole?

MonacaYankee 06-08-2017 05:53 PM

That bolt holds the inspection cover on.

cruiser54 06-09-2017 08:15 AM

I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

uptownbill 06-09-2017 09:34 AM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 3396459)
I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

By god I think you're onto something

first things first:

Attachment 407259

It does kinda look pooling up back there ...

Attachment 407260

ENHANCE

Attachment 407261

OldTires 06-09-2017 10:02 AM

Miller Light! Oh dude, I wouldn't post that.

uptownbill 06-09-2017 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by OldTires (Post 3396488)
Miller Light! Oh dude, I wouldn't post that.

first of all its high life light brah

OldTires 06-09-2017 10:21 AM

You got me on that... :grin:

On the valve cover gasket, yeah, it looks like it's leaking.

I just changed mine and it has dried things up.

fb97xj1 06-09-2017 01:01 PM

My 97 looked the same up top.

Valve cover gasket - Felpro VS50458R
CCV front - Dorman 47079
CCV rear - Dorman 47057
CCV grommets - Dorman 42344

The valve cover gasket comes with grommets, but you need to reuse your metal inserts. Torque to 85 INCH pounds IIRC, but i stopped at 60. Start from the center and work your out in a spiral pattern, in increments. The CCVs and grommets are up to you, but there they are. I used aluminum foil to keep dirt out of the engine, a razor blade to remove the tough stuff followed by 400 grit sandpaper, then a vacuum before removing the foil.

cruiser54 06-09-2017 03:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's my tool kit:


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