Leaky Jeep *PICS*
06-08-2017, 02:44 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Leaky Jeep *PICS*
So I've been storing my NYC jeep at home in Minnesota for the Winter and have finally been back to take a look.
There's many things wrong with this heap:
It'll be getting the full lift/tires treatment later this year.
For now, I've discovered a slight oil leak near the rear main and drain plug. You can see it beaded up here:
When I get further to the other side I see that the bolt goes to nowhere:
Is that normal???
Also the diff is leaking but am planning to swap this gasket and cover when doing Big John's disc swap:
any ideas?
There's many things wrong with this heap:
It'll be getting the full lift/tires treatment later this year.
For now, I've discovered a slight oil leak near the rear main and drain plug. You can see it beaded up here:
When I get further to the other side I see that the bolt goes to nowhere:
Is that normal???
Also the diff is leaking but am planning to swap this gasket and cover when doing Big John's disc swap:
any ideas?
06-08-2017, 03:28 PM
#3
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looks like my oil leak! Mine is a rear main seal and only leaks a little bit. Not worth replacing right now. However, yours could also be the valve cover gasket or something else. The best thing to do is clean it up real good and try to trace the leak from the top then make your way down.
As far as the diff goes, just replace your fluid and use RTV to make a new gasket. Here's a great video:
As far as the diff goes, just replace your fluid and use RTV to make a new gasket. Here's a great video:
06-08-2017, 03:45 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern Long Island, NY
Posts: 952
Received 55 Likes
on
50 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
On the differential cover, that is a rubber plug that dries up and cracks over time, allowing the slow leak from the plug hole. Just replace it. But like the previous post says, take off the cover, clean and inspect inside, and reinstall cover with fresh RTV, followed by fresh gear oil.
06-08-2017, 03:54 PM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
thanks all
will follow lord bleepin's instructions
anyone know about the bolt to nowhere? is that normal or should it be threaded all the way through that hole?
will follow lord bleepin's instructions
anyone know about the bolt to nowhere? is that normal or should it be threaded all the way through that hole?
06-09-2017, 08:15 AM
#7
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,864
Received 1,524 Likes
on
1,236 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.
Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.
Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Trending Topics
06-09-2017, 09:34 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.
Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.
Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
first things first:
It does kinda look pooling up back there ...
ENHANCE
06-09-2017, 10:21 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern Long Island, NY
Posts: 952
Received 55 Likes
on
50 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
You got me on that... 
On the valve cover gasket, yeah, it looks like it's leaking.
I just changed mine and it has dried things up.
On the valve cover gasket, yeah, it looks like it's leaking.
I just changed mine and it has dried things up.
06-09-2017, 01:01 PM
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: PA
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
Received 333 Likes
on
277 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My 97 looked the same up top.
Valve cover gasket - Felpro VS50458R
CCV front - Dorman 47079
CCV rear - Dorman 47057
CCV grommets - Dorman 42344
The valve cover gasket comes with grommets, but you need to reuse your metal inserts. Torque to 85 INCH pounds IIRC, but i stopped at 60. Start from the center and work your out in a spiral pattern, in increments. The CCVs and grommets are up to you, but there they are. I used aluminum foil to keep dirt out of the engine, a razor blade to remove the tough stuff followed by 400 grit sandpaper, then a vacuum before removing the foil.
Valve cover gasket - Felpro VS50458R
CCV front - Dorman 47079
CCV rear - Dorman 47057
CCV grommets - Dorman 42344
The valve cover gasket comes with grommets, but you need to reuse your metal inserts. Torque to 85 INCH pounds IIRC, but i stopped at 60. Start from the center and work your out in a spiral pattern, in increments. The CCVs and grommets are up to you, but there they are. I used aluminum foil to keep dirt out of the engine, a razor blade to remove the tough stuff followed by 400 grit sandpaper, then a vacuum before removing the foil.
06-09-2017, 03:41 PM
#13
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,864
Received 1,524 Likes
on
1,236 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here's my tool kit: