phillyxj570

from pass. side axle. im thinking its just a shot seal but i would like to hear your opinions just to make sure im right or find out if im wrong.

tiwvr1

seal

phillyxj570

how do you change the seal and how much of a pita is it i have never changed a seal in an axle b4

5-90

Front axle? You have to pull the shafts and carrier (fortunately, you don't have to disturb the gear setup or pinion bearings. May as well change the carrier bearings while you're about it, tho.)

The seals are against the inside ends of the tubes, where the shafts enter the centre section. They're usually pulled into place using a long section of threaded rod, some heavy nuts, and some plates (washers aren't thick enough or large enough) to bear on the seal and the outer end of the tube.

You may be able to do much the same thing with the threaded rod inside the centre section and bearing against the inner ends of the tubes (pushing on both seals at once,) but I have yet to try this. Either way, the carrier assembly has to come out for access.

You may as well replace both seals - if one is gone, the other is not far behind. You wouldn't think you could actually manage to kick yourself in the head, but if you don't do it all while you've got it exposed, you'll find out you can when the other seal starts leaking...

TIPS:
- Clean the shafts - particularly the sealing surfaces - well. I like to use a find (400grit or finer) emery or crocus cloth to clean the sealing surface - wrap it around and twist a few times. Take it off, apply some light oil (I keep plenty of light machine oil around - I'm always sharpening something) and repeat. Remove, clean with carburettor cleaner and a clean rag, then run your thumbnail back and forth to check for a groove (have your thumbnail perpendicular to the axis of the shaft, and go back and forth in 3-5 places. A groove can start anywhere, and it won't necessarily go all the way around at first.) If you feel a groove, check for the availability of a 'sleeve and seal' kit for your application and install. Repeat for the other side. Don't worry - your thumbnail is not going to be able to scuff the shaft! Just make sure your hands are clean.

- Clean the seats for the seals. Scrap the bottom of the bore so nothing keeps them up, use a brass or bronze wire brush or wheel to clean the bore proper. Flush with carburettor cleaner. Check for cracks, gouges, or chips that actually go the full length of the bore (at the surface where the seal goes in is fine - as long as it doesn't go all the way down.)

- Apply a light bead of RTV (I prefer black - haven't had any decent luck with that blue stuff...) around the outside of the seal shell before you put it in. This will help it seal against the bore, and take care of any porosity or flaws you may have missed.

- Stop driving the seal when it is flush with the surface of the bore - no need to go any farther. You won't get a better seal that way, and you'll have a harder time removing it next time. As long as it won't interfere with the carrier (it should not,) you'll be fine.

- I'm cranky. You're going to have the housing opened for a while. I like to shoot some engine assembly lube into the pinion bearings before I drop the carrier back in (a small syringe is good for this,) and I'll usually pack the carrier bearings (when I replace them) with a mix of red moly grease and engine assembly lube (same thing, only more lubricating properties and lighter body.) Assemble, cover, and refill.

- You may think you can't get the carrier out. Horseradish. Do this:
1) Jack up the vehicle so the wheels are free of the ground.
2) Remove the driveshaft from the axle (use new screws and straps when you reinstall! The straps may be inspected and often reused, the screws should be replaced out of hand. 1/4"-28x1", I usually use socket heads. They're easier to deal with.)
3) Remove cover and drain.
4) Mark carrier bearing caps (use a number or letter for best effect) for proper realignment. They must go on the same side and in the same orientation! If you mix them up, the whole housing has to be remachined! Easiest way? Mark the top of one with an upright letter - and mark the case right next to it the same way - and the top of the other with a sidewise letter - and the housing next to it in the same way. When you reassemble, you just need to put the upright letters next to each other and the lazy letters next to each other. If you've only got the one Jeep, you can just use "F" for Front and "R" for rear - if you have more than one, use a number as well (either character may be rotated - I usually rotate the letter) and have that number consistently assigned throughout the vehicle. (Hey - I had five at one point...)
5) Remove screws and caps. Inspect screws for deformation (they may be replaced with standard SAE8 goodies, or you can use socket heads here as well. Socket head capscrews are supposed to be H&T to SAE8 strength as a rule, or ISO PC 12.9 for metric sizes.)
6) Put a clean rag so that it can start to go in between the ring & pinion gear.
7) Use a pipe wrench (you'll want the leverage) to turn the pinion. It won't be difficult - it's just that the leverage of the wrench gives you more control.
8) Have a helper catch the differential when it falls out, or have a well-padded something to receive it. You do not want it to fall on the ground and chip - and it will fall out in short order! Note any shims that fall out with it - I'll usually put a cap screw back in loosely and hang the shims on it so I put them back in the same place. If there are varying thicknesses in the stack, put the thicker ones on the outside (makes it easier to put them back in.)

For reinstallation, you'll be setting the differential carrier into the case, tapping it slightly until you can get the bearing caps started, and then using the screws to pull it into place. I sometimes find it handy to have threaded rod, nuts, and washers handy - the threaded rod may be run into the holes using your fingers (don't even need to bottom it out - just get a good grip. 4-6 turns usually serves,) set the caps in place on the threaded rods, and then nuts and washers. Work back and forth with the nuts (X-pattern, you want to pull as evenly as possible) to get the carrier back in. Then, you can remove the threaded rods one at a time and replace with screws. I also like to "paint" the assorted gear teeth with a bit of engine assembly lube or red moly grease - helps keep them lubricated until they start picking up gear oil.

Torque spec on the screws is on my site in the Tech section. Use LocTite #242 (or equivalent) after cleaning the screw threads. (You so don't want these to come loose on you!) Button it all back up, refill, and you're good.

RR 1982

See post below

RR 1982

I searched and found your post. I noticed a small gear oil drip seeming to come from where the driveshaft/u joint meet the front axle, do your instructions refer to this issue or something differnet with the axle shafts? If so how bads the job replacing the seal that's leaking on my '99 Cherokee? I removed some of your post to save space.Thanks

[QUOTE=5-90;549404]Front axle? You have to pull the shafts and carrier (fortunately, you don't have to disturb the gear setup or pinion bearings. May as well change the carrier bearings while you're about it, tho.)

7urtle

i just replaced this pinion seal. ordered from quadratec 52420 04 OIL SEAL-PINION 998092

its easy.unbolt driveshaft & u joint,remove nut & pull out shaft ,remove seal (small screwdriver or seal puller) mine was stubborn
i lubed the seal before i put it in

it took 90 min. thats me explaining how to do it and getting tools

phillyxj570

No my problem was a axle seal gear oil leaking out the axle shaft you have a bad pinion seal like stated above. Very easy to change. Axle seals on the other hand are a pain in the *** because you have to pull your axles and carrier.

RR 1982

Remove the axle?

i just replaced this pinion seal. ordered from quadratec 52420 04 OIL SEAL-PINION 998092

its easy.remove axle & u joint,remove nut & pull out shaft ,remove seal (small screwdriver or seal puller) mine was stubborn
i lubed the seal before i put it in

it took 90 min. thats me explaining how to do it and getting tools[/QUOTE]

7urtle

[/QUOTE]
my fault just unbolt the drivehaft that connects to the diff

RR 1982

It's cool glad you wrote wrong thing. Thanks for the help. What kind of CB you lookin for, I have a couple real nice ones all peaked out.


my fault just unbolt the drivehaft that connects to the diff[/QUOTE]

7urtle

weather capabilty,Instant Channel 9 & 19,backlit

RR 1982

I've got a Mirage 2950, digital with sideband,very powerful transmit,almost new. I also have a Texas Star 500 and another 250watt amp that will get you out about 20 miles on a clear night,from your vehicle if you really want some power.