Somethins obviously wrong here... Been having crazy electrical issues lately (thinkin it's a grounding issue) and all of a sudden today, she likes to die while we're rollin down the road... 64 codes?! Thinkin ECM... Anyone know anything?

 

Sounds likely, and/or harness going to it.

 

Maybe start with checking the sensor ground's/ circuit? For starters there is a ground wire on both your TPS and MAP sensors. Random dieing could be the CPS.

Also inspect all the wiring, especially anything near an 02 sensor. (where there is an 02, there is heat)

 

64 codes. LOL

Are you trolling bud?

 

Wow that is wild!! I did not think that was possiable ?? I am going through some crazy stuff also but that is unheard of .. The first thing I would do is to make sure that scanner is working properly then I would start looking at the grounds especially by the dipstick and coil., I am pretty sure they are two of the most important.. Then I would check your battery connection`s and power supply at the pdc box I had that on my sister`s kia and it is sort of the same power feed from the battery to the pdc box the 12 v feed was loose inside the eyelet that held it to the pdc box.. You would shut off car and then try to restart nothing.. took a while to find it so now it is one of the first places I look?? I am still fighting mine but think I am makeing some headway its really a hobby car/fixer/ upper lol so not an everyday driver , no hurry.. well good luck hope you find something simple

 

Unfortunately, no.....

Thanks guys... Is there a chart or somethin showing all the grounds?

 

I've got them for Renix, but not yours. Start refreshing every ground you see in the engine bay. REmove, clean, scrape paint, reattach securely. Just gandering at them is useless.

Might try this aFTER doing that. Unplug the harness plugs from your PCM. Visually inspect the connector pins, spray out all the connections with contact cleaner and reinstall the plugs.

 

first of all, what were the majority of the codes, did they end in low voltage? or something of that nature? i've seen this so many times, its cool every sensor in the car will throw a code when the battery looses a cell going down the road.

 

I can only tell you where they are on my 99 cherokee sport and these are only the ones I know of or found while I was trying to repair mine. The first is on the coil mounting block . looking down into the eng compartment standing right by the front pass tire it is on the block under the a/c compressor just follow the neg battery cable down it also shares one of the two studs used for grounds(1/2 in). The second standing in the same position is toward the rear of the block right by the dipstick. should be a stud on the side of the block with 4 wires attached to it(1/2 in). These are grounds also . Now go to the drivers front wheel looking down into engine compartment on fender you might have to move harness a little you will see a pair of grounds to fender i think they are10 mm bolts should be two side by side with multiply wires on them. now look at firewall their should be a strap from the firewall (15mm) to one of the head bolts on the rear of the drivers side head right above the intake manifold. I would remove inspect and clean all of them., disconnect battery before you remove any grounds to clean.. make sur you move them around visually mine looked good but gave it a little tug and it was broken right by the mount? hope it helps good luck..

 

This might help https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dia...de-list-78108/

 

To go along with Seven's good description about ground locations, here's some visuals showing their locations.

When refreshing these grounds see if you cn get a tube of a product named NOALOX, Anti-Oxident Joint Compound, made by Ideal Industries and sold at Lowes (pic below). Use this compound on the wire ring teminals at the ground points. Do not use Dielectric (tune up) grease on the grounds.

To modify Seven's description, there may only be two wires at ground G102. Four if you have Anti-Lock Brakes. The other two are grounds for the Data Link Connector.

You may want to refresh the main positive connections in the engine bay as well. One point is at the end of the PDC where the alternator and battery B+ leads connect to the PDC Bus (pic below) and the other at the starter.













PDC Bus connections (Green wire is from the alternator, battery connection is under the alternator connection.



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After addressing the ground points, you may want to disconnect the battery negative cable for about five minutes and reconnect. See if the CEL goes out. Then take your Jeep to a different store and have the codes read again.

 

Those are really great pic`s CCKEN is the man you want to talk/listen to., I learned about those grounds from CCKEN helping me figure out my electrical problem`s.. Not sure if I, we, solved it not saying anything till my buddie comes back with his scanner? lol I don`t want to jinx myself but I think mine might be ok?? We did so much I am not really sure how we fixed it but one of the communication problem was defitnetly a broken ground not only at the attachment post but also about ten or twelve inches further up into the harness (my buddie found it can take credit for it)., and also the gray plug on the pcm had a bad pin in it that was also causing some problems and thankfully did not wipe out the pcm..Good luck keep cleaning and checking just my 2 cents

 

Well everyone, thank you all for your help, especially CCKen but the problem was my battery connection... The grounded side was corroded to $#!t and all I had to do was put some CLR on the wires and wire brush the contacts and all problems were solved... Will definitely take the time to clean my other grounds tho just for the future.. Also just went to autozone and ZERO CODES came up... I even high fived the guy because I was so happy/relieved... Thanks again guys

 

Dang, I'll have to add the battery terminals to my engine bay grounds photos...LOL

Glad it fixed it.

I'm just stumped on why a corroded battery termimnal would through 64 Diagnostic Trouble Codes. I have a sneaking suspicion that the puke at idiotzone finally figured out how to use his code reader.

 

Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!