Password12345678

I took my Jeep into the shop today for the guys to look at. Here's what they told me:

1. My steering box is completely screwed over. I either need to get it rebuilt or buy a new one. They recommended a trusted shop (Indy Rack and Axle) to get it rebuilt there.
2. My transfer case is probably going to fail soon.
3. They are shocked my shocks haven't rusted off yet. They told me that the coils and springs are going to need to be replaced before they break apart due to rust.

All I have is common garage tools and the knowledge/skill level of a 16-year-old. I consider myself more mechanically inclined, but I don't think I can tackle these things (maybe #3, but it's pretty rusty under there). I may have gone in over my head when I bought this project. My question to everyone is: Should I leave it up to the pros when it comes to serious stuff like this or try to tackle it myself?

lawsoncl

What makes them think the steering box is bad? If you buy a rebuilt, avoid Cardone brand. Hardest part about replacing it is getting the pitman arm off. The xfer case isn't that hard to rebuild, but again what are the symptoms. If the springs and shocks are that bad, what's the rest of the vehicle look like? Floorboards rusted out? How much money are you will to dump into the Jeep?

PatHenry

All 3 of those things are certainly manageable by an average DIY with common tools and enough time and energy.

I agree with Lawsoncl - you need to do a full appraisal of the vehicle and how much money/time/blood,sweat&tears you are willing to put into the Jeep. --- Anything is fixable -- it's just a question of time and money.

I could believe the steering box is bad - it's common enough of a failure after 20 years. I presume you brought it in mainly for sloppy/leaky steering?

Really, we need the specifics (and any good shop should certainly be willing to go over them with you or answer additional questions - especially if they want to do the work that you are unwilling to do yourself.) - what and why is the steering box bad - how did they determine this? Why is the transfer case "about to fail"? These transfer cases are known for their durability and longevity. How did they determine the transfer case is going bad?

You should be able to tell easily if the springs are shot. Does the front end sag? Does the rear end sag? Do the leaf springs look like they're flat or inverted? There are measurements for the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare for a stock height XJ floating around here somewhere. Something like 19.5" for the front and 18.5" for the rear.... If your springs are original I wouldn't be surprised if it's time for new ones.

Spring replacement in the front is pretty simple. You rent a spring compressor (basically 2 clamps that you tighten down to compress the spring) at your local parts retailer and droop the front axle all the way, then compress the springs until you get them out. Rust shouldn't be much of an issue with those.
The rear leaf springs and the possible (likely) trouble spots are extremely well documented and the experiences are accurately described. You'll need a MAP torch (you should have one anyway), several cutting tools (angle grinder, sawz-all) and a lot of patience.

00t444e

If the steering is still tight and the transfer case is shifting in an out of 4x4 ok and not making any noise then they are probably both fine. It would be a good idea to check the fluid in the transfer case.

DFlintstone

Have been "wrenching" most of my life. Kids on my block would bring there bikes to me to remove their training wheels. Got a CA smog license at 18. From time to time girlfriends or my mom needed to go to shops because I was off working somewhere. Unbelievable, shocking, what they do. Unconscionable, outright abuse of women who know no better. ADD AN EXPONENT FOR A TRANNY SHOP! Without mentioning anything, seeing what another shop says might be an idea.

PatHenry

Women, 16-year Olds or anyone who is obviously naive are all potential victims of disreputable service providers.

Obviously if you ever doubt an analysis, get a 2nd opinion.

Password - please provide additional info about what you're seeing and any and all reasoning behind the recommendations you've been provided.

robertj

I would not hesitate to do any of those things myself. It will be work and some frustration, but it's so rewarding if you manage to get through it. BTW, I would question everything they told you and not take it all on just their advice.

Dave51

That sounds VERY suspicous. As Pat noted, they will fatigue. However, there are 2 weak areas that may rust to a dangerous point, namely the coil spring perches in the front and the shackles in the rear. Along with the height measurements can you send photos of those areas? Shackles are easy enough to replace, but redoing the front perches can be a challenge, and they'd probably tack on $1000 to fix hem ("Well, y'know, once we got in there..."

Password12345678

He grabbed the shaft leading to the box and was able to wiggle around in any direction. I watched him do it. He said no amount of tightening the bolt on the top is going to fix it. I think a Durango box can be swapped in, but I'm not sure.

They can hear a chain slapping/turning inside of it. I don't know what to listen for but I'll just have to take their word for it. They said they can't tell me when the transfer case is going to fail, it could be another 100K or another 10K, but just not to be shocked when it happens. I can shift in and out of 4WD and there are no strange noises that I can pick up on, so I'm not too concerned about it.

The Jeep's body was undercoated, so it's in good shape, but the shocks and springs are rusty. Floorboards are as solid because I had my 250 lbs dad jump around in the Jeep (funny sight to see) before I bought it. The Jeep is sagging all around, but it's not awful. It has a little rake left, but it's probably going to flatten out soon because everything on the Jeep is factory. Okay, thanks for the advice on the front springs, I wasn't sure how I was going to get those out... the rear ones are going to be extremely difficult.

I am not going to buy everything they try to sell me, though they are trusted mechanics and the whole town goes to them (my town isn't very big). I was underneath the Jeep beside the guys as they were pointing things out to me.

Jeepwalker

The xfer case is probably the easiest to work on with normal hand tools. You'll want to get a Harbor Freight heavy-duty spring clip pliers. And help removing it. They're really fairly simple. You can't really put things in wrong, they only go in one direction. You can inspect the bearings ..maybe all you need is a chain and new driveshaft output seals(??). It might be easier to just buy a replacement off craigslist too for $50 if you find one.

If you DO do the xfer case, be sure to grease the front driveshaft, especially the Constant Velocity ball (between the two u-joints). If there isn't a zerk between the joints, try to get behind the ball with a grease needle. Probably hasn't been greased in a long time, and not greasing it could be costly down the road. It's often overlooked. Check the rear driveshaft (rear) u-joint ...replace if necessary. Driveshafts are easier to work on when they are already unhooked.

The springs ...you might run into problems with the bolts being VERY rusty. But otherwise easy to do ...but take care and use all cautions. It can also be dangerous.

Steering box, yeah, just get a replacement. Getting the pitman arm off might require the use of an air impact wrench under worst-case situations. You'll need to buy/rent a pitman arm removal pullers. But OTOH, if they aren't charging much for labor, you might at least get a quote and add up what the savings would be ..and if you want to deal with the work. It'll take you twice (or 3x) as long as you 'think' it will. They might do all that work in 1.5 days, might take you a solid week, not having done it before.

Also look at the brake lines that lead to the rear axle. They might be dangerously rusty too, especially under the plastic clips which hold them.

PatHenry

I would get a quote from the steering gear rebuild shop. Then compare it to the cost for a Redhead box and maybe check the local junkyards. Assuming you decide to do the box yourself - when you take the old gear out, use plenty of heat and your BFH to get that pitman arm off. It's a real pain. Also the power steering hoses can be a real pain as well. The third thing to be careful of is when you separate the steering shaft from the gear, DO NOT LET THE SHAFT TURN FREELY! A little side to side is OK, but full revolutions is a no-no. It will screw up your clock-spring --- ask me how I know..

If it were me, I'd consider letting the pros do the gear and do it asap. This is a safety factor. It's not that technically difficult of a replacement, but there are a lot of parts that are a PITA. If you decide to do it yourself, do this first.

If you're not planning on using 4wd much (it is almost spring weather) for a while, I'd do the springs next and then the transfer case. The stretch on the chain shouldn't degrade quickly if you're not putting pressure on it by running 4wd. If you use 4wd frequently, I'd do the transfer case next and then the springs.

Definitely check your spring perches, leaf spring to frame brackets, top of the front shocks, etc. for severe rust. Surface rust is fine, but if anything is cracked, separated or rotten, then address it immediately. Also a safety factor.

Red1992XJ

100% on the money.

Just how rusty is everything? (Pics of underneath would really help us help you.)

Get a price for them to do the steering box. Also, make sure they are not going to just get a cheap-o cardone. The steering box is a relatively involved job for someone who doesn't do that kind of work often. If something is screwed up, better to let them be the ones who did it than you.

Springs and shocks on the other hand can be done with some basic hand tools and rented tools from Autozone. (You "buy" the tool, use it, and return it for full price.) Have you decided if you want to stay stock height or lift? Make your decision so you don't have to do work or buy parts twice. (Check out the upcountry option, you can get shocks and springs, front and rear, for like $500. It'll give you about 1 to 1.5 inches of lift, more if you are sagged)

The transfer case can be done by yourself, but again, it may take awhile. With the guidance from experts on here, you should be able to do it yourself.

The rake to the left used to be called a "bachelor lean", implying that it only ever had one person in the vehicle.

downs

I typically automatically think anything a shop says is bull**** till proven otherwise. They can thank an industry full of crooked thieves for that.

awg

3) post pics and people on here will advise you on the shock/spring situation

1) for you I would recommend a junkyard steerbox

2) Xfer case can wait, be replaced from junkyard or rebuilt

You do need access to quite a wide range of tools to do all these jobs?

Password12345678

Thank you for the advice. I'll bookmark this thread so I can use it when I'm working on my Jeep. Anyway, here are some pictures for you guys.
Passenger side rear:


Driver's side rear:



Passenger side front:


Driver's side front:


If you guys need more angles, let me know.