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inefficient cooling

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Old May 7, 2011 | 03:54 PM
  #1  
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From: Southern Utah
Year: 1992
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Default inefficient cooling

Ok so I made a trip to Arizona this weekend. During the trip my temperature gauge showed that I was overheating. its 100 here and I'm worried about going back next weekend. My dad thinks I should take the thermostat on the way back. What ideas do you all have??
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Old May 7, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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From: Long Island N.Y.
Year: 1999
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Why not just replace it if you have it out there like 3 to 7 dollars
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Old May 7, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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making sure both fans are working properly is a must
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Old May 7, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by Jor2010dan
Ok so I made a trip to Arizona this weekend. During the trip my temperature gauge showed that I was overheating. its 100 here and I'm worried about going back next weekend. My dad thinks I should take the thermostat on the way back. What ideas do you all have??
Which list is shortest?.......what u have done (regarding cooling system maintenance) or what u have not done?
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Old May 7, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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From: Southern Utah
Year: 1992
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Ok I haven't done any cooling upgrades. I did put a new t stat 195 and coolant 2 months ago. I'm afraid that while the PO had the Jeep painted that the paint got on the radiator making it inefficient. I also consulted my Haynes manual and
My mechanical fan is loose while cold and hot. Is the clutch bad? .is it expensive to replace? I do have my tools with me if its not too hard a task.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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fan loose when hot replace it under 40 dollars 13mm wrench and 8mm take fan off pully take screw out of shroud pull both out together pemove clutch and reverse to install simple
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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From: Southern Utah
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Originally Posted by freegdr
fan loose when hot replace it under 40 dollars 13mm wrench and 8mm take fan off pully take screw out of shroud pull both out together pemove clutch and reverse to install simple
Take off the Belt? Also. Is it asking too much to go 75 with a/c upshifting in 3rd once in a while in 100 degree weather. Or our rigs perfectly capable if everything is working properly.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:19 PM
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From: Southern Utah
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I've been wanting to dirt bound offroads conversion. So is there a way to just eliminate the clutch for now??
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:19 PM
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If all components of the cooling system are functioning correctly, u shouldn't need fans when moving at highway speeds (unless u have a really strong tail wind). One way to eliminate overheating guessing....replace it all.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:24 PM
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From: Broward County Fl.
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Originally Posted by djb383
If all components of the cooling system are functioning correctly, u shouldn't need fans when moving at highway speeds (unless u have a really strong tail wind). One way to eliminate overheating guessing....replace it all.
i thought this also mine was running warm when crusing not hot but warmer than usual replaced clutch fan problem solved
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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From: Southern Utah
Year: 1992
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because its been painted over twice,I want to get a 3 core all metal radiator and the electric fan conversion (also a GC alternator to power it all, It struggles right now with my sound system and lights and A/C)
But yea, Is there a way to eliminate the clutch for now?

I also heard that the fans shouldn't be needed at cruising speeds. I assumed this, but on my 8 hour drive down here, my electric fan was on the whole time. Is my radiator bad as well?
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Old May 7, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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sorry for a slight hijack of thread, but i'm in similar position w/ my 88xj. future plans to upgrade to all elec. fans, but not enough $$ for it yet. she'll run about 195 @ speed, but will continue to creep up @ idle. however, just replaced fan clutch w/ hd clutch my dad had in storage. i've also wired a 30a toggle to the e-fan. i've decided to temporarily bypass the sensor on the rad, (the po jumped the circuit, i replaced sensor, & the e-fan still wouldn't come on) getting way more air flow, but still not getting cool enough. so culprit must be internal, right?
po "replaced' rad, h20 pump, t-stat (he said 165, but i think it's a 195), prestone flush-n-fill plastic T on heater line hose, & replaced pressure bottle w/ alum. diamond plate bottle w/ 16lb cap. overflow from under cap is open (no hose or overflow bottle) which is spitting out fluid @ running temps i think maybe i'm sucking in air because the overflow is not plugged, or routed to another bottle?
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Old May 7, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
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Usually the VSS turns the efan off above a pre-set vehicle speed. A running efan can actually impeed air flow when the vehicle is moving at speed. On ours there have been times, when driving at highway speeds, towing and high ambient temp, the clutch fan will roar for maybe 30-45 seconds then get quiet again.

Florida heat, Texas and Arizona desert heat demand that all components of any cooling system be in top notch condition. Eliminating the clutch fan is not your solution, IMHO.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 08:26 PM
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by smokerkenny
sorry for a slight hijack of thread, but i'm in similar position w/ my 88xj. future plans to upgrade to all elec. fans, but not enough $$ for it yet. she'll run about 195 @ speed, but will continue to creep up @ idle. however, just replaced fan clutch w/ hd clutch my dad had in storage. i've also wired a 30a toggle to the e-fan. i've decided to temporarily bypass the sensor on the rad, (the po jumped the circuit, i replaced sensor, & the e-fan still wouldn't come on) getting way more air flow, but still not getting cool enough. so culprit must be internal, right?
po "replaced' rad, h20 pump, t-stat (he said 165, but i think it's a 195), prestone flush-n-fill plastic T on heater line hose, & replaced pressure bottle w/ alum. diamond plate bottle w/ 16lb cap. overflow from under cap is open (no hose or overflow bottle) which is spitting out fluid @ running temps i think maybe i'm sucking in air because the overflow is not plugged, or routed to another bottle?
you need the over flow bottle for expansion and contraction purpose
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Old May 7, 2011 | 09:28 PM
  #15  
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From: Southern Utah
Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by djb383
Usually the VSS turns the efan off above a pre-set vehicle speed. A running efan can actually impeed air flow when the vehicle is moving at speed. On ours there have been times, when driving at highway speeds, towing and high ambient temp, the clutch fan will roar for maybe 30-45 seconds then get quiet again.

Florida heat, Texas and Arizona desert heat demand that all components of any cooling system be in top notch condition. Eliminating the clutch fan is not your solution, IMHO.
I see, well maybe it was off. I just assumed it was on cause the temperature was above 218. But it makes sense if it turns off.

K well I only need it at highway speed to get home to utah (cooler)

I guess i should rephrase my question.

Why does my jeep overheat at 75 mph?
What is wrong in my cooling system
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