Ign module on a 1990 renix 4.0 auto
With coil removed and you ohm test where coil + and - are to were connector plugs in shouldnt they both have continuity i have it on positive sude but not on the negitive side thanks for all input still tryn to get it started and also still no fuel pump does it go thru ign module too thanks again
Ok thanks . Now with coil
Mounted in ignition module i have continuity on the positive side fron coil thru module but not negitive is this correct or is my ign module bad
Mounted in ignition module i have continuity on the positive side fron coil thru module but not negitive is this correct or is my ign module bad
You should have 1-5 ohms across the two positive terminals.
You should have 12-15k ohms across the coil tower and the metal frame.
If these check out good, plug the coil in and remove the HT lead from the distributor cap, leaving it plugged in to the coil.
- Put a spark plug in the distributor end of the cable.
- Rest the shell against a convenient bit of bare metal - not the ignition module directly! A bracket or something should work (if the coil lead isn't long enough, you can use the #1 or #6 plug wire. Plug the dizzy end into the coil tower, spark plug where it normally goes.
- Hold it there (preferably using something plastic) and have a helper crank the engine. The engine will not start! Watch the plug gap for spark.
If spark is present, start looking somewhere else.
If spark is not present, verify resistance in the HT lead (typically 2-6k ohms end-to-end.) Replace if out of range. Recheck, using a "known good" lead.
What problem are you having? Module failures tend to be heat-related, you can check this by taking the vehicle overnight cold and using a hair dryer to heat up just the ignition module. Heat it up until you can't keep you finger on it for more than about five seconds, then try to start. If it doesn't start, you've got a coil module problem and should replace it.
RENIX ignition modules usually come as a module/coil assembly.
You should have 12-15k ohms across the coil tower and the metal frame.
If these check out good, plug the coil in and remove the HT lead from the distributor cap, leaving it plugged in to the coil.
- Put a spark plug in the distributor end of the cable.
- Rest the shell against a convenient bit of bare metal - not the ignition module directly! A bracket or something should work (if the coil lead isn't long enough, you can use the #1 or #6 plug wire. Plug the dizzy end into the coil tower, spark plug where it normally goes.
- Hold it there (preferably using something plastic) and have a helper crank the engine. The engine will not start! Watch the plug gap for spark.
If spark is present, start looking somewhere else.
If spark is not present, verify resistance in the HT lead (typically 2-6k ohms end-to-end.) Replace if out of range. Recheck, using a "known good" lead.
What problem are you having? Module failures tend to be heat-related, you can check this by taking the vehicle overnight cold and using a hair dryer to heat up just the ignition module. Heat it up until you can't keep you finger on it for more than about five seconds, then try to start. If it doesn't start, you've got a coil module problem and should replace it.
RENIX ignition modules usually come as a module/coil assembly.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 2
From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242ci I6
My crankshaft position sensor went out on me and my jeep wouldn't start. All my modules/sensors/other things were having odd readings too. PITA to change, but it fixed the problem.
No start, no fuel pump, ohmed coil to new
one still nothing. When u ck ign module at pos to pos it is ok, its not ok on neg side, no continuity thanks for ur help.
one still nothing. When u ck ign module at pos to pos it is ok, its not ok on neg side, no continuity thanks for ur help.
Last edited by glennwilfong; Oct 4, 2012 at 06:12 PM.
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