I think I need a new alternator - would this one do the job?
#1
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I think I need a new alternator - would this one do the job?
My "Check Gauges" light came on this morning and I had 0 volts. I now only get charge over about 1500 rpm. Obviously I'll check with a multimeter when I get home, if the thing turns out to be goosed, would this do the trick?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-Jeep-...item231490d80c
I'm OK with the shipping to the UK being about the same price as the part since it's quite heavy, but is the price one of those "if it looks too good to be true, it usually is" deals or is this a normal price in the USA?
In the UK they want nearer $300 for a re-furbished alternator
thanks,
edit: I have a 97 cherokee 4.0 with A/C (that doesn't work).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-Jeep-...item231490d80c
I'm OK with the shipping to the UK being about the same price as the part since it's quite heavy, but is the price one of those "if it looks too good to be true, it usually is" deals or is this a normal price in the USA?
In the UK they want nearer $300 for a re-furbished alternator
thanks,
edit: I have a 97 cherokee 4.0 with A/C (that doesn't work).
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Visalia, Kalifornia, ussa
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
FWI- Have the alternator BENCH tested prior to replacement.. 97 was a bad year to ECU issues.. The voltage regulator and ALL of the power distribution is done IN and VIA the ECU... So lack of charge might mean bad charging circuits in the computer and the alternator is still good. Took me 3 alternators and 2 batteries for my daughters rig to figure this out.
#4
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Woah, it's never simple!
(well it's simpler than a modern vehicle I guess).
Thanks for your advice. I'll see what I can do about getting tests done.
(well it's simpler than a modern vehicle I guess).
Thanks for your advice. I'll see what I can do about getting tests done.
#5
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Just for closure... in case this thread turns up in a someone's search results.
My serp belt was tight and the connections all seemed good so I consulted the guru (who has been a mechanic for over 50 years) and he told me that the easiest test of the alternator in my case (especially as I never saw a strangely _high_ charging voltage) was to hold the revs at the minimum that gave me 14V on the gauge and then switch on lots of electrical load. If the volts dropped, the alternator was the fault. If the revs dropped, get back to him.
Well, the volts dropped, so I bought a refurbed alternator and fitted it today. Problem solved!
For the record, the alternator for a 97 is the same for RHD and LHD XJs so it's cheaper for us warm beer drinkers to buy an alternator in the US and have it shipped over. The funky serp belt routing is confusing but all is made clear in the FSM and at least I didn't have to touch the power steering pump.
Thanks all!
My serp belt was tight and the connections all seemed good so I consulted the guru (who has been a mechanic for over 50 years) and he told me that the easiest test of the alternator in my case (especially as I never saw a strangely _high_ charging voltage) was to hold the revs at the minimum that gave me 14V on the gauge and then switch on lots of electrical load. If the volts dropped, the alternator was the fault. If the revs dropped, get back to him.
Well, the volts dropped, so I bought a refurbed alternator and fitted it today. Problem solved!
For the record, the alternator for a 97 is the same for RHD and LHD XJs so it's cheaper for us warm beer drinkers to buy an alternator in the US and have it shipped over. The funky serp belt routing is confusing but all is made clear in the FSM and at least I didn't have to touch the power steering pump.
Thanks all!
Last edited by Morat; 04-26-2014 at 04:58 PM.
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