I have a 95 xj H.O 4.0 4x4 and wondering other than rerouting the air intake e.g a snorkel. What other things must I do to keep my engine safe when nearly submerged??

 

i would like to know how to do this also

 

I would think something has to be done to protect the distributor, and the trans would also need to be vented higher if it's not already.

 

and u might want to relocate your alternater!

 

raise all your breathers to your sealed up airbox (which gets air from a snorkel, or cowl intake or whatever raised intake you have), put dielectric grease on ALL electrical connections and spark plug threads (which you should do anyway on plugs). i also put saltwater grade electrical grease on the outside of important connections and on my battery terminals (just to keep rust and crap off up here in the NE). seal the dizzy cap with a bead of silicone, and pop the breather cap off and raise that also. i've been submerged up to the windshield for extended water crossings without a problem. never had a problem with the alternator either, its not water thats bad for it, its everything else... mud, dirt and all that crap.

 

Thanks alot man

 

So the fan will be fine as well as any sensors like the o2 and such?

 

water doesnt harm electronic components, its **** in the water that will. i've never had a problem with the fan 'pulling itself' into the radiator either. the 4.0 is a pretty damn tolerable motor, only the sensors way up high (TPS, IAC, MAP) will be hurt if they get too wet, and then the motor will freak out. thankfully theyre (relatively) cheap sensors.

 

Need something like this for distributer
Looking now to see if they make one for the L6

http://www.google.com/products?sourc...ed=0CCYQzAMwAg

 

i used dielectric grease on my spark plugs and the distributor cap connections and it works great

 

I used to have a 95 wrangler with a 4.0L H.O. and replaced the breather cap on the distributor cap with a rubber boot the sealed it entirely. Worked great until I sold it years later.. in hind-sight a hose that would run through the firewall and vent up behind the dash.. would have been better.. if it vents, it vents for a reason.

then maybe a little rubberized caulk around the bottom.. or better yet.. use a rubber lip on the cap.. very thin so as not to effect anything.. to seal the bottom. remember that the gap between the rotor and cap points are a set distance apart and should not be changed much if at all.. and take some fine grit sand paper to the points under the cap while you are there..

good luck

 

silicone the cap

 

I'd like to know how to turn my Jeep into a duck (like the duck tours)... truck/boat hybrid type deal...