As a newby I have a question that may seems weird to someone: is it hard to replace shock absorbers by myself in my XJ ? Maybe that is to complicated and requires specific tools or a carshop lift. Or, if anything, I can do it by following proper procedures. Thanks to all !
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If all the hardware is in good condition, it is a simple job that can be done with basic hand tools.
If the nuts and bolts are rusted/seized, it can be an absolute nightmare.
If the nuts and bolts are rusted/seized, it can be an absolute nightmare.
That Jeep Guy XJMJ
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Front is very simple and straight forward. Easy access for the most part with exception to the nut on the top of the driver shock because it can be cumbersome working under the brake proportioning valve.
I would argue the rear shocks is where all the potential difficulty lies.
The secured nuts in the unibody crossmember are prone to breaking. Which for a seasoned jeep mechanic is no big deal if you know how to deal with it. The bottom post mount off the axle is also prone to the threads snapping off clean leaving only the post for the shock bushing and no way to secure it. Again though, these are simple fixes if you knownwhat to do in the situation.
For the top mounts If thr bolts snap, take a round tapered punch and hammer and drive the broken bolt/nut combo into the void of the unibody. Then you'll either fish new hardware in from above or they sell aftermarket nut tabs that can easily be held in place over top thr mounts and secured.
As for the lower mounts. I favor the method of cutting the post off flush with the shock mount and then drilling a new hole clear through the mount and then running a new long grade 8 bolt through as a replacement.
both these methods are well documented here, just gotta look for them. I can prolly link them later
I would argue the rear shocks is where all the potential difficulty lies.
The secured nuts in the unibody crossmember are prone to breaking. Which for a seasoned jeep mechanic is no big deal if you know how to deal with it. The bottom post mount off the axle is also prone to the threads snapping off clean leaving only the post for the shock bushing and no way to secure it. Again though, these are simple fixes if you knownwhat to do in the situation.
For the top mounts If thr bolts snap, take a round tapered punch and hammer and drive the broken bolt/nut combo into the void of the unibody. Then you'll either fish new hardware in from above or they sell aftermarket nut tabs that can easily be held in place over top thr mounts and secured.
As for the lower mounts. I favor the method of cutting the post off flush with the shock mount and then drilling a new hole clear through the mount and then running a new long grade 8 bolt through as a replacement.
both these methods are well documented here, just gotta look for them. I can prolly link them later

awg
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As well as copious amounts of my own brew of penetrating oil, (used trans fluid & mineral turpentine),
I also use a butane torch on any rusty or seized fasteners, and do this repeatedly, work the fastener back & forth gradually
Using these methods, I have reduced my fastener breakage to almost zero
I dismantle a lot of old parts, so its vital not to snap fastener's.
I got my rear ones out quite easily with these methods
I also use a butane torch on any rusty or seized fasteners, and do this repeatedly, work the fastener back & forth gradually
Using these methods, I have reduced my fastener breakage to almost zero
I dismantle a lot of old parts, so its vital not to snap fastener's.
I got my rear ones out quite easily with these methods
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vroomvroom
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I highly recommend barpin eliminators for your front lower and rear upper shocks. They open up more shock options and, in my opinion, provide a more secure fit.
It isn't the end of the world if you break or strip your rear upper bolts. Yes, it will ruin your day, but they make flag nuts as a replacement. Also, the XJ has a lot of welded nuts on the unibody. For these welded nuts, anti-seize on the bolts is highly recommended.
The great thing about Jeeps in general is great aftermarket support. This means there will most likely be a solution out there just in case you need it because someone has already been there and a company has produced the solution.
Shock Bar Pin Eliminator | Front Lower | Wrangler TJ & LJ, Cherokee XJ, Comanche MJ, Grand Cherokee ZJ & WJ – JKS Manufacturing (jksmfg.com)
It isn't the end of the world if you break or strip your rear upper bolts. Yes, it will ruin your day, but they make flag nuts as a replacement. Also, the XJ has a lot of welded nuts on the unibody. For these welded nuts, anti-seize on the bolts is highly recommended.
The great thing about Jeeps in general is great aftermarket support. This means there will most likely be a solution out there just in case you need it because someone has already been there and a company has produced the solution.
Shock Bar Pin Eliminator | Front Lower | Wrangler TJ & LJ, Cherokee XJ, Comanche MJ, Grand Cherokee ZJ & WJ – JKS Manufacturing (jksmfg.com)
Quote:
I always thought those flag nuts were way overpriced.Originally Posted by vroomvroom
they make flag nuts as a replacement.
I use a cheap (as in stole from the kid) flexible ruler to drop the bolts in (and you can actually reach passenger side with your fingers):
It works like the tire plug tool. Once the bolt is started yank it off.
IJM
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Quote:
If When the nuts and bolts are rusted/seized, it can be an absolute nightmare.
Fixed that for you. Most likely, one or more upper shock bolts will break, but getting the old ones out and fishing new ones in isn't the end of the world.Originally Posted by TrailerTrash
If all the hardware is in good condition, it is a simple job that can be done with basic hand tools.If When the nuts and bolts are rusted/seized, it can be an absolute nightmare.
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I use (used) a 99 dollar small battery impact driver ( Craftsman) to break mine loose. It doesn't have so much torque to just snap off a rusted bolt, but does have enough "hammer" to it to knock internal rust loose. All after lots and lots of PB Blaster, and soaking for a few days in that stuff.
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One more thing. Just because a bolt stats turning, din't think you are home free. Keep spraying the PB and work the bolt forward and back a little but at a time. The bolt can still break off as it is turning.
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Those of us familiar with American forums know that PB Blaster's a wonderful product but to the best of my knowledge it's not available outside the US.
Dunno what's available in Italy but GT85, which is a WD40 product made in the Netherlands probably is - & I can recommend it.
,
Dunno what's available in Italy but GT85, which is a WD40 product made in the Netherlands probably is - & I can recommend it.
,
It is possible to find in Italy. There are also several other products doing same job.
https://www.tradeinn.com/waveinn/it/...pb/138963196/p
https://www.tradeinn.com/waveinn/it/...pb/138963196/p
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vroomvroom
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Quote:
I use a cheap (as in stole from the kid) flexible ruler to drop the bolts in (and you can actually reach passenger side with your fingers):
It works like the tire plug tool. Once the bolt is started yank it off.
I agree, they are overpriced. But the previous owner already had flag nuts installed, so might as well keep 'em right?Originally Posted by Dave51
I always thought those flag nuts were way overpriced.I use a cheap (as in stole from the kid) flexible ruler to drop the bolts in (and you can actually reach passenger side with your fingers):
It works like the tire plug tool. Once the bolt is started yank it off.
Quote:
Castle 101? I did not see that.Originally Posted by vroomvroom
But the previous owner already had flag nuts installed, so might as well keep 'em right?





