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- Jeep Cherokee 1984-2001: How to Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor
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How to replace the crankshaft position sensor
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Middle Tennessee
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ltr
well. i am the idiot that dropped the screw into the bellhousing. the cover was missing from the po i guess...can i get it out from the access point on front or will i have to drop it
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 720
Likes: 1
From: vanburen
Year: 1995 &2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Pull the starter out and get a couple of them magnetic pins that stretch out don't know what they call them you may break one so get atleast 2 or 3 of them lol I broke 2 trying o finally got mine out when it happened to me
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
From: Carlisle, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Middle Tennessee
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ltr
GOT IT
Well, after a little fishing with a coat hanger and a loose inspection plate the screw fell out... the easiest part of the job. I tied a piece of thread around the bolt head and taped it to the socket so if i did drop it again I could fish it out pretty easily. Luckily I did not drop it again. On a bad note, changing the CPS did not fix my no spark problem. I have changed the CPS and also changed the coil... still no spark, where do i go next? I am getting fuel to the rail, but I can't hear the fuel pump...still not getting spark though.
What other sensors tell the thing to spark??
What other sensors tell the thing to spark??
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Best way to Remove Crank Sensor
For those of you getting ready to change your crank positioning sensor, this is the absolute best way I've found to do it. I just changed mine, in my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0. I really appreciated this post, because with out it, i would probably still, be trying to change my sensor. Also I would like to add, make sure, you use a swivel, with the 11mm socket, or the bolt will not turn. 
If it's a 1999-2004 4.0 it's EASY!!!
After cutting the crap out of my hands and inventing new curse words removing the old Crankshaft Position Sensor from my 2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0, I could not get the bolt back in with multiple extensions and swivels.
I figured there MUST be an easier way, something the stealership is not letting on about.
Fact is, if you go through the firewall under the dash it is EASY!!
Here's how to do it:
1) Remove the plastic bottom panel directly under the gauges. It simply snaps up and out.
2) Locate the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower plastic panel under the steering column and remove them along with a few phillips head screws as well to free up the panel. Remove.
3) Look behind the console and you will see a small plastic "L" shaped duct that blows air to your feet. Snap it out of its position and remove the phillips screw holding it from under/behind (or cut the plastic flange with a razorknife halfway if the screw is hard to get at - takes a shorty phillips screwdriver. This way you can still snap it back on.)
4) Pull the carpet back and tuck it under the gas pedal.
5) You will see an oval metal plate that the shifter cable runs through as it passes through the firewall. Remove the 2 10mm nuts and pull the plate back.
6) VIOLA! There is the crankshaft position sensor staring you right in the face through the hole in the firewall you have exposed!
7) Insert 11mm socket with extension and remove/replace bolt with ease.
You guys are welcome to buy me a beer when we cross trails
After cutting the crap out of my hands and inventing new curse words removing the old Crankshaft Position Sensor from my 2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0, I could not get the bolt back in with multiple extensions and swivels.
I figured there MUST be an easier way, something the stealership is not letting on about.
Fact is, if you go through the firewall under the dash it is EASY!!
Here's how to do it:
1) Remove the plastic bottom panel directly under the gauges. It simply snaps up and out.
2) Locate the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower plastic panel under the steering column and remove them along with a few phillips head screws as well to free up the panel. Remove.
3) Look behind the console and you will see a small plastic "L" shaped duct that blows air to your feet. Snap it out of its position and remove the phillips screw holding it from under/behind (or cut the plastic flange with a razorknife halfway if the screw is hard to get at - takes a shorty phillips screwdriver. This way you can still snap it back on.)
4) Pull the carpet back and tuck it under the gas pedal.
5) You will see an oval metal plate that the shifter cable runs through as it passes through the firewall. Remove the 2 10mm nuts and pull the plate back.
6) VIOLA! There is the crankshaft position sensor staring you right in the face through the hole in the firewall you have exposed!
7) Insert 11mm socket with extension and remove/replace bolt with ease.
You guys are welcome to buy me a beer when we cross trails
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Well.. I'm also one of the *******es that dropped a bolt in the bell housing. :-/
Anyone have any ideas on how to retrieve it without removing the starter or the housing? I've already tried fishing with a magnet and had no luck. This sensor is in the worst location! I've had nothing but trouble and aggravation ever since I started!
Anyone have any ideas on how to retrieve it without removing the starter or the housing? I've already tried fishing with a magnet and had no luck. This sensor is in the worst location! I've had nothing but trouble and aggravation ever since I started!
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
No Way.. I'm attempting this one.. After this Crankshaft Sensor has been annoying me for over a year.. I'm trying this one
***Update*** I was surely skeptical and sure enough. With a swivel you can follow that exact method. Behind the football shaped plate (under the carpet) there is only a hole (shift cable runs through firewall) about the size half dollar, a bit bigger.. But it's just big enough to get to that damn bolt. Then the Crank Sensor can be removed from up top.
This wasn't a 30 minute job.. But not a hard one at all.. Just required patience. Best post ever.. Didn't have to lower the trans to do this.
***Update*** I was surely skeptical and sure enough. With a swivel you can follow that exact method. Behind the football shaped plate (under the carpet) there is only a hole (shift cable runs through firewall) about the size half dollar, a bit bigger.. But it's just big enough to get to that damn bolt. Then the Crank Sensor can be removed from up top.
This wasn't a 30 minute job.. But not a hard one at all.. Just required patience. Best post ever.. Didn't have to lower the trans to do this.
Last edited by Myst187; Dec 15, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
1993 Jeep Cherokee Country in line 6 cps replacement
I thank everyone for all the posts, but it wasn't as difficult as some lead you to believe. I don't have the floor access.
To change the cps on my 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country in line 6:
I chocked the wheels
Put transmission in 2 (to move linkage out of way)
Removed driveshaft from front axle and tied it off to frame to get it out of the way. (be careful not to remove u joint caps and mess up the inner spleens. Took me a while to realize that)
This is how you make space for your arms:
I jacked the car up via the frame on the drivers side about where the door hinges are with a hydraulic jack until the wheels were almost off the ground.
This raised the body away from the transmission and allowed me to reach in.
I can't remember if it was the 11mm or the 13mm socket.
I had to use some extensions and a swivel to get to it, but I didn't need a meter of length or so.
My big problem was dropping the socket in the beginning and it kept falling into the linkage.
I had no problem with bolts falling into bell housing because I could loosen them with my hand. It took a while because they are like 1.5 inch long.
After the bolts were out, I lifted the cps from the top. It slid right out
I made sure to plug the new one in, then lowered it into place from the top
Since I had room underneath. I hand inserted the bolts and everything lined up.
Took about 3 hours, but I kept stopping to watch a football game, so I can't give you an exact time.
Jeep runs great now. No more shutting off when warm.
To change the cps on my 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country in line 6:
I chocked the wheels
Put transmission in 2 (to move linkage out of way)
Removed driveshaft from front axle and tied it off to frame to get it out of the way. (be careful not to remove u joint caps and mess up the inner spleens. Took me a while to realize that)
This is how you make space for your arms:
I jacked the car up via the frame on the drivers side about where the door hinges are with a hydraulic jack until the wheels were almost off the ground.
This raised the body away from the transmission and allowed me to reach in.
I can't remember if it was the 11mm or the 13mm socket.
I had to use some extensions and a swivel to get to it, but I didn't need a meter of length or so.
My big problem was dropping the socket in the beginning and it kept falling into the linkage.
I had no problem with bolts falling into bell housing because I could loosen them with my hand. It took a while because they are like 1.5 inch long.
After the bolts were out, I lifted the cps from the top. It slid right out
I made sure to plug the new one in, then lowered it into place from the top
Since I had room underneath. I hand inserted the bolts and everything lined up.
Took about 3 hours, but I kept stopping to watch a football game, so I can't give you an exact time.
Jeep runs great now. No more shutting off when warm.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 54
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Honestly ^ that is about the best advice the only other thing I could tell you is maybe tie a string to the connector so you dont worry about dropping the darned thing. Also find a friend with tiny monkey hands. I had to use 2 6 in extensions to get to mine. Pain in the **** I tell ya. I will also say I attempted the removal through the interior method and had no luck with it and went at it from the top/bottom of the jeep. Best of luck