This is the piece that i fabbed up last time i replaced the track bar. I live in a dry state and can't imagine having to deal with this in the rust belt! Dealer will gladly part you from your money!
Find the correct bolt and nut, then have a muffler shop weld a piece of rod to the nut.

 

damn it i totally just called someone for skimming a post too......

meh the point of my post still stands true, cut it and put a new bolt in there.....and make sure your zip disk is solid with out any fractures, exploding disks are some scary dangerous ****

 

have someone put a jack under that side of the axle. not the frame! have them slowly run the jack up while you pry/pull/ratchet. i had the same problem last time. tb is too short so you need to reduce the angle and distance from the axle (where tb connects) to the frame side of tb connection. lifting the passenger side of the axle slowly will allow you to find that sweet spot... trust me, go slow!! it only take half or less of a pump on that jack to completely overshoot that sweet spot...

 

I have had success with using a rachet strap between the driver side unibody (near the steering box mount) and the passenger side axle. Move it one click at a time until you find the "sweet spot" where you can work it out. If it is corroded tight in there, you may have no choice but to cut the bolt. Remember, anti-seize is your friend.

 

Mine was a mother to get out too. I had to cut that SOB out. Stupid rust belt!!

 

yo flex, you get to work or what??

 

At work now, will give it another go tonight. Had to put the nut back on and drive it. I don't mind cutting it, but why I don't think it's rusted to the sleeve is I did get it to unthread about 1/4 ". then it spins freely. But the bolt responds to the ratchet going back in. So I can turn it to come out until it hits it's "wall" where it just spins, and then turn it back in. That bracket It goes into I need to re-drill looks incredibly weak. I think I bent it a little with the pry bar... ANd I tried heat but too much heat seems bad as I can smell the rubber burning in the sleeve.

 

did you try prying and backing it out at the same time?

 

Yes sir. It starts to come out, but still just gets to the point of spinning after a little bit of backing out...

 

I think the bolt is indeed frozen to the sleeve and the sleeve is now turning in the bushing. I'd have a new bushing ready when you finally do get it apart.

 

It was not frozen on, BUT I did end up cutting off. I was going to re drill stock but lifted to 4' and now just ordered an adjustable one. Even after cutting it as close to bracket as possible it was still hard to get out. I knew I was getting a new one so I removed the bracket on the driver side. Bolt slid right out. So if you are having issues with the lower bolt, remove bracket and all tension is released. Even though I did brake the weld on that stupid rounded inner nut it was an easy fix.