Last time the cable tore, I was able to give a slight tug to the exposed cable, and the hood would pop. 4 years later, the new handle snapped off, and I tried to pull the cable again.

This time, the cable slides, but nothing pops. It just sort of reaches the end of its travel. Pulling any harder may rip the cable under the hood. With someone else pulling with pliers, I can feel the hinge moving via the cable under the hood, so it's all connected.

I had two people. One yanking the cable with pliers, and me pushing the hood up and down. No pop.

What are my options?

 

Get out there and give the hood a good bang on top. If the latches are released it could just be sticking.

 

Removing the headlights and bezels will give you access to the latches, you will be able to unbolt both of the latches this way. Once removed open the hood and give them a good cleaning and oiling or replace them with new ones. If you have enough cable you can attach a new handle if not run a new cable. Be sure to lube your latches in the future and this will never happen again.

 

I was really pushing up and down on the hood when he was pulling the wire. I felt the springs bottoming out, like the hood was moving up and down compressing the springs. I'm not sure I could have pushed any harder.

So, I have no idea what is hanging up. The hood is moving up and down, and the cable is sliding to the end.

Ok, so I just need to remove the headlights and I will be able to access the hood latch? I do not try to disconnect the cable, but I just unbolt the entire latch from the hood on both sides? This way, the hood comes free from the latch and opens?

 

That is correct your latches will be stuck on the pins when you open the hood. If they're stuck closed use a flat head screwdriver to manually open them for removal.

 

You can try this link https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/po...-cable-205001/

 

Man, I'm getting nervous.
I had someone punching down on the hood while I yanked the wire.
Nothing.

That link is not going to help me. His cable was detached. Mine is not.
Mine is attached and no amount of force is popping it.
A coat hanger won't be able to generate even 10% of the force that I am pulling with.
Link doesn't even make any sense.
You can't just drag a coat hanger over a rod and expect it to do anything.
It will just slide down the rod. You'd need to crazy glue it or something.

Removing the headlights is going to be a PITA.
At least, it was last time, when the screws stripped and impossible to Dremel it.
Not even sure how I got past that, it's been so long.

 

Time to scrap it then.

 

Well why don't you figure it out and make another 10 hour write up for it? There just aren't detailed enough guides to fixing this problem.

 

 

Oper, just curious, were there any previous signs of problematic hood openings or did this happen out of the blue?
Is it one or both latches that are stuck?
If both are stuck then it could be a bell crank issue.
The headlight thing is the only option i can see.
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Too little too late for the OPer.
But his horror story (one of my worst fears too) is a reminder to keep those latches well lubed to prevent them from rusting solid if nothing else.

Right or wrong i use a light oil like WD40.
A heavier oil or non silicon grease could freeze in the Winter causing a stubborn latch open or worse a non opening bind.

Just about every time i pop the hood, i give the bell crank, the latches and their catch bars a squirt of WD.

I might beef up that cheezy rod weld too.

 

I remember somebody popping the hood on one of these by laying on the ground and reaching up past the radiator a to grab the rod that runs across and yanking on it to pop the latches.

This was several years ago. I'm not really certain as to how effective it will be but is worth looking at.

 

I find WD to be too light but it should work fine if you're under the hood often and apply it religiously. For guys like me that rarely open the hood and the jeep spends more time sitting than anything, I apply anti-seize and work it in. I used white lithium in the past but it wasn't holding up. I haven't tried a good dry lubricant yet but the anti-seize has been working fine so I'll most likely stick with that.

 

Jeein'
Yeah, my hood has been popped open probably a couple thousand times maybe more.
Because of the 331 head, I watch the coolant bottle and oil like a hawk which gives me the opportunity to lube the latches a lot.

I agree Wd40 has poor lube properties but when sprayed in the latches it also has the benefit of leaching out any debris trapped in the latch mechanism in addition to some poor rust proofing.

Every time i'm about ready to pull that hood release handle, there's a paranoid uSecond flash of a 'Oh Sh_t'
So far so good, knock on wood.

Been thinking of ways to jury rig an emergency manually latch open at the latches themselves.
Its a tough nut to crack because of the cramped space they're in.

Maybe scrapping the OEM setup and replace with hood pins.
or
As Preventative Maintenance, replace the OEM latch parts and bell crank with new parts.

 

Dweeks,

I took off the grille and one of the headlights.

Do we even have the same car?
I have absolutely no idea what I am even looking it.
Very little is exposed after removing the headlight.

What am I supposed to remove once the headlight is out?
I don't even see anything accessible except that large bolt.
Do I remove that?