Honing an engine
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Honing an engine
Me and my buddy were honing his cylinders and we did one and it looks pretty scratched up. Is that how it's supposed to look? The first pic is of a cylinder we didn't do yet. The second pic is the one we did.
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Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0L
Actually the "scratches" should make 45* angles, kinda a cross-hatch patteren. To generate this patteren by hand is a little bit difficult. The right tool and a power drill and you could get a respectable result.
Pictures to follow...
Pictures to follow...
Last edited by Cherockee; 02-03-2012 at 06:02 PM.
#3
Sort of. It will work. I rebuilt engines for a living years ago. The scratches just insure that the rings will seat. If you have a ring up top of the cylinder that you can feel with your finger nail you'll need to ream it out or have it bored if it's too much. We used to take 50 grit sandpaper and scratch up the cylinders when the hone would break.
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I just helped a buddy do his 350 and it had a spot in one cylinder that you could just catch with your finger nail on from the motor sitting. Got it all back together and everything seated runs great and dosen't even smoke.
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What kind of hone are you using? A dingleball hone is easier to use and get a nice crosshatch pattern, but it will not remove any slight ridge at the top of the cylinder. A three stone hone can remove a small ridge, but is more difficult to use and can bust all to hell if go too deep and past the bottom of the cylinder bore. Remember, you have to stroke the cylinder as you're honing, it doesn't look like you did that on your engine.
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I would normally rent a "ridge reamer", takes the top part away where the rings didn't wear.. Two problems with having it there. (kind of fun. Clamps IN the cylinder, and you turn it by hand. You adjust the bite of the cutter. Sort of an inside-out lathe!)
First a stone type hone will ride on it and not contact correctly. Also with the stone riding it, it might actually increase your cylinder taper, last thing you want!
Second, your fresh rings could actually hit it. It was made with old wearing rings. That tiny "corner" could end up in the way of the "proud" corner of the new ring.
30* cross-hatch is what you want, like pictured in Cherokee's pic. And yea, as Bustedback points out, the ball-type hone is more forgiving.
Not quite sure what, yea, something went wrong in your pic. Maybe make sure the bores are good and clean. If you remove the ridge and cut any varnish/deposits with Kemtool or something, you should be able to get it nice and uniform.
WHAT OIL guys? I've found that if I use today's Castrol 30W drilling, my bits wont cut well. Maybe tranny fluid? That's what I've been using to drill.
First a stone type hone will ride on it and not contact correctly. Also with the stone riding it, it might actually increase your cylinder taper, last thing you want!
Second, your fresh rings could actually hit it. It was made with old wearing rings. That tiny "corner" could end up in the way of the "proud" corner of the new ring.
30* cross-hatch is what you want, like pictured in Cherokee's pic. And yea, as Bustedback points out, the ball-type hone is more forgiving.
Not quite sure what, yea, something went wrong in your pic. Maybe make sure the bores are good and clean. If you remove the ridge and cut any varnish/deposits with Kemtool or something, you should be able to get it nice and uniform.
WHAT OIL guys? I've found that if I use today's Castrol 30W drilling, my bits wont cut well. Maybe tranny fluid? That's what I've been using to drill.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 02-03-2012 at 11:49 PM.
#7
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Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
What kind of hone are you using? A dingleball hone is easier to use and get a nice crosshatch pattern, but it will not remove any slight ridge at the top of the cylinder. A three stone hone can remove a small ridge, but is more difficult to use and can bust all to hell if go too deep and past the bottom of the cylinder bore. Remember, you have to stroke the cylinder as you're honing, it doesn't look like you did that on your engine.
I posted this more as a question for my friend, he knows more about it then I do, so I'm just trying to be the middle man lol. Yall are being very helpful though, I appreciate it.
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Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
I would normally rent a "ridge reamer", takes the top part away where the rings didn't wear.. Two problems with having it there. (kind of fun. Clamps IN the cylinder, and you turn it by hand. You adjust the bite of the cutter. Sort of an inside-out lathe!)
First a stone type hone will ride on it and not contact correctly. Also with the stone riding it, it might actually increase your cylinder taper, last thing you want!
Second, your fresh rings could actually hit it. It was made with old wearing rings. That tiny "corner" could end up in the way of the "proud" corner of the new ring.
30* cross-hatch is what you want, like pictured in Cherokee's pic. And yea, as Bustedback points out, the ball-type hone is more forgiving.
Not quite sure what, yea, something went wrong in your pic. Maybe make sure the bores are good and clean. If you remove the ridge and cut any varnish/deposits with Kemtool or something, you should be able to get it nice and uniform.
WHAT OIL guys? I've found that if I use today's Castrol 30W drilling, my bits wont cut well. Maybe tranny fluid? That's what I've been using to drill.
First a stone type hone will ride on it and not contact correctly. Also with the stone riding it, it might actually increase your cylinder taper, last thing you want!
Second, your fresh rings could actually hit it. It was made with old wearing rings. That tiny "corner" could end up in the way of the "proud" corner of the new ring.
30* cross-hatch is what you want, like pictured in Cherokee's pic. And yea, as Bustedback points out, the ball-type hone is more forgiving.
Not quite sure what, yea, something went wrong in your pic. Maybe make sure the bores are good and clean. If you remove the ridge and cut any varnish/deposits with Kemtool or something, you should be able to get it nice and uniform.
WHAT OIL guys? I've found that if I use today's Castrol 30W drilling, my bits wont cut well. Maybe tranny fluid? That's what I've been using to drill.
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I bet he meant that you need to go up and down with the drill, going the right speed to get the desired cross hatch. (speed of both RPM's and vertical movement)
If you use the stone type, and you don't remove the ring ridge area no way can it work. (the stones will ride up on the unworn part). Don't think of a hone as really, "taking it down". It's more about minutely roughening the surface, "breaking the glaze", so the new rings can seat.
The other style of hone looks like a big bottle brush with little carborundum ***** on the end of each bristle. (it, of course won't ride up in the ridge)
If you use the stone type, and you don't remove the ring ridge area no way can it work. (the stones will ride up on the unworn part). Don't think of a hone as really, "taking it down". It's more about minutely roughening the surface, "breaking the glaze", so the new rings can seat.
The other style of hone looks like a big bottle brush with little carborundum ***** on the end of each bristle. (it, of course won't ride up in the ridge)
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Engine: ERH 4.0L 16 Power Tech
Cylinder hone.
A ridge reamer is used to cut the "ridge" away from the top of the cylinder for piston removal. There are several brands of rigid hones available for use in finishing a cylinder that has been bored with a boring bar. I have seen cylinders successfully bored .030 over with a Sunnen rigid hone. I would take it to a shop and have the new pistons professionally fitted if you have the money. The job will last a lot longer.
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by waltermitty
A ridge reamer is used to cut the "ridge" away from the top of the cylinder for piston removal. There are several brands of rigid hones available for use in finishing a cylinder that has been bored with a boring bar. I have seen cylinders successfully bored .030 over with a Sunnen rigid hone. I would take it to a shop and have the new pistons professionally fitted if you have the money. The job will last a lot longer.
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