xjboy14

transmission cooler will help if you dont already have one,

with that rebuild kit you should see if you can get all the parts seperatly for cheap

Fred/N0AZZ

If you like your XJ as much as you sound like I would follow through with the loan idea for it. Being a DD these are what I would myself and have done in the past/will do again with my 99 XJ.

1. Complete engine/head rebuild
2. Replace all hoses/vac lines/belts/plug wires
3. New Injectors/Distributor/Alt./Water pump/T Stat/Radiator
4. Clean all electoral connections and grounds by removing the bolts and cleaning the terminals/frame to bare metal.
5. Inspect both differentials/transfer case/transmission/brakes to see if any of them need to be rebuilt or just a complete service.
6. Check complete front end also for worn parts.
7. Now is the time to do any upgrades if you plan to do so.

One thing in the end at least you will know what you have should be very dependable. Plus the fact for the money spent you know exactly what has been done to your XJ and not another used truck you know nothing about.

Rueter

Thanks guys! And Fred, that was my thinking too. I was going to have to take a loan out for that truck anyway, I'd much rather take out a smaller loan and rebuild this thing right rather than taking a chance on something I'm not familiar with. And thanks for that list!

Rueter

Also, does anyone know if the Bilstein 4600s are adjustable in any way? I've had them on about ten months and they're a little too stiff. They're a hell of a lot better than my old blown out stock ones though! But if they're not, what kind of coil set up or leaf springs could I get to soften the ride up a bit? I'm planning on eventually replacing them anyway.

Roler

What? Not checking the rear end? No new axles, axles shafts, wheel hubs, complete brake revisions, lets not forget about the underside here? Or what the h#ll, a whole new unibody?

LOL, just how much were you planning a loan for...?

Dont forget new airfreshner

Rueter

Definitely will be doing some brake work and checking on the axles!
Not sure on the loan situation yet. I only just recently decided to look into doing this.
I'm going to price everything and have a rough estimate once I figure out just what all I want to do and then go about looking for a loan.

And certainly can't forget the air freshener!

Rueter

Thoughts on the steering stabilizer and tie rods? I may look into replacing them as well. I need to stop lol my list is getting ridiculous, but I want/need (mostly want) to do it all.

So here's kind of what I'm looking at:

• Complete engine/head rebuild
• All vacuum lines
• Spark plugs and wires
• Cap and rotor
• Injectors
• Radiator and hoses
• Cleaning all grounds and terminals
• Front and rear main seals
• Transmission and fuel filters
• Full fluid flush (run thicker oil)
• Oil pan gasket (maybe)
• Coils
• Leaf springs
• Brake pads (possibly rotors as well)
• Air filter
• Oil and fuel pumps (maybe?)
• Steering stabilizer (maybe)
• Tie rods
• Control arms (maybe?)

Pelican

Mind boggling!

Why are you talking about running thicker oil?

Rueter

I won't run thicker oil if I go through with doing a full rebuild, may do it for now because of the mileage, it's over 240,000 now. Should help lessen the wear on the pistons and what not.

Anony

If I were going to perform an engine rebuild I would also want to do at least some of the following.

Update the PCM to the latest firmware revision.

Inspect engine wiring harnesses, connectors and splices for wear and corrosion. Inspect the body wiring and lighting harnesses for wear. Perform any necessary repairs. Make sure the CCD wiring and devices are all working and in good condition.

Replace any suspected bad sensors with quality OE.

* Drop and clean out fuel tank. Inspect fuel pump assembly for proper operation. (fuel pump, fuel sending unit and regulator/filter) If the fuel filter and fuel pump are factory originals, now might be a good time to replace the fuel pump & fuel filter/regulator or assembly.

Inspect and repair any problems with fuel delivery including the fuel lines. Clean fuel injectors if needed.

Inspect cabling and linkages.

Evap system, hoses and canister.

Inspect motor mounts and the exhaust system.

Clean up the intake & repair any cracks in the exhaust manifold.

Inspect and repair any problems with steering and suspension.

Inspect braking system and lines, replace any damaged or worn braking hardware.

Have a transmission or auto repair shop perform some rudimentary testing on the transmission to determine any existing problems.

Rueter

Thanks Anony! I plan on improving my exhaust as well. There is a crack currently in my exhaust manifold and from there to the cat is pretty worn, that will all be replaced. I have a performance cat on it and it's straight piped from there. I will be replacing the section from where my new piping ends to the tail pipe as well. Anybody have any thoughts on flaring to a bigger diameter from the cat back? Been thinking of maybe going a little bigger.

Anony

I am not sure how much of effect going to larger diameter 2.5 inch cat back is going to have with stock manifolds. It should increase the air flow, reduce some of the back pressure and may effect the torque curve some. The exhaust is sort of tricky as you dealing other engine related issues and not only the exhaust. To create additional horse power and better performance the intake is sometimes changed along with the exhaust manifold, cat, muffler and tail pipe.

Rueter

The cat isn't quite a high flow, it's just half the size of the stock one that was on there. It needed to be replaced quite badly and I went with a shorter one. I'm just looking for something that will help it run smoother, reduce some back pressure, and sound a little better (good sound from the in line isn't very easy, I know) but it doesn't sound too bad as it is. The piping from the manifold to the cat is just showing it's age and starting to rust.

Anony

Take a closer look at your front pipe from the header to the cat and your tail-pipe. If these are OE its a good chance they're 14 gauge and heavier stainless and the rust your looking at is exterior. If you are able to grind them down some it will show either stainless or regular steel. If stainless these often last for 20 years and longer.

A new front OE pipe runs around ~$350.00.

may pop

I would not do the lifters or the head gasket either. T-6 Rotella will be better than a thick oil also with a quality filter. I have those Bilsteins and they are stiffer than others at over 30K they are still the same. Change all fluids especially the trans. This vehicle will keep going for a very long time. One thing I do is have a spare vehicle or 2 so when one needs to be repaired Im not hurried to get it repaired. 2wd may be a blessing as there are a lot less moving parts to wear out.
Ron