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Help with my rear drive line vibes

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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 09:04 PM
  #1  
bigboy813's Avatar
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From: Santa Clarita,CA
Year: 2000 Sport
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Engine: I6 4.0
Default Help with my rear drive line vibes

Ummm im thinking im gonna have to do a tranfer case drop or rear shims i need help with both decisions

Shims
-What angle do i need for my 3 inch lift
-Where do i get them

Transfer Case Drop
-How does the transfer case disconnect/dprop
-What alternative parts can i use, washer sizes
-Can i get some pics or links of write ups
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 09:09 PM
  #2  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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buy this kit dont rig it with washers most 4x4 site have them
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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try and find a junkyard crossmember from a standard XJ if yous is auto
=1" drop

Last edited by jeff2285; Nov 19, 2010 at 09:12 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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good to know ^^^^^^probably pay more than just buying the drop kit... if you are good with metal the drop can be made easily
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
good to know ^^^^^^probably pay more than just buying the drop kit... if you are good with metal the drop can be made easily
good point i dont really pay much for parts for anything or junkyard parts
pays to be a mechanic
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 09:58 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by jeff2285
good point i dont really pay much for parts for anything or junkyard parts
pays to be a mechanic
yes it does i'd be screwed if i wasn't it's even better when you own your own business
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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Is it easy to install a t-case drop.I have a floor jack and jack stands to support the cross member,also is it easy as it seams just the 2 bolts and nuts
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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hello....
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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yeah its a pretty simple task, the only problem i had was gettin one of the nuts broke loose. pb blast it ahead of time.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by harorider848
yeah its a pretty simple task, the only problem i had was gettin one of the nuts broke loose. pb blast it ahead of time.
lol im in cali i have no rust but i use pb anyway
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:49 AM
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Watch out when removing the two studs, they have little shoulders on them, that won't fit through the crossmember holes. You have to lower the crossmember a bit, to get them out.

I did one side at a time.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:52 AM
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the reason i say buy the kit, see the little square bracket with the hole in it thats for the tc shifter linkage so it does not bind up when you shift it, washers and stuff like that work but in the long run as little as things like this cost it pays to spend the couple extra bucks to avoid headaches.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:59 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
the reason i say buy the kit, see the little square bracket with the hole in it thats for the tc shifter linkage so it does not bind up when you shift it, washers and stuff like that work but in the long run as little as things like this cost it pays to spend the couple extra bucks to avoid headaches.
so do i have to disconnect anything before dropping the t-case
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 05:05 AM
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just put the floor jack under the crossmember and remove the two bolts and the two nuts then take out the two studs that the nuts were on and install the kit with new bolte jack back up tighten the in stall the linkage bracket its hartder than the drop kit tight area to work in its easier than a tune up
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:34 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
just put the floor jack under the crossmember and remove the two bolts and the two nuts then take out the two studs that the nuts were on and install the kit with new bolte jack back up tighten the in stall the linkage bracket its hartder than the drop kit tight area to work in its easier than a tune up
sorry for being an idiot but how exactly do i get the stud out becuase it doesn't look like i will be able to without cutting something

FYI i dont start anything without looking at it for a while or asking some questions

Last edited by bigboy813; Nov 20, 2010 at 04:41 PM.
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