Help with Crankshaft Position Sensor.
04-17-2017, 01:00 PM
#1
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Help with Crankshaft Position Sensor.
I have a 2000 Cherokee that just died while driving with out warning will turn over will not start. So I went to the dealer ship bought a new CPS to put in after reading the forums.
First issue I ran in to the plug that i am supposed to disconnect that is located on top of the intake is not located on top of my intake it is with a couple other plugs on my tranny have any of you seen this?
second the new plug will not fit the connection, old one is shorter and rounder new one is longer and squarer.
Any ideas did some one go through and Frankenstein some wire in and maybe I have the connection older Cherokee in my 2000?
First issue I ran in to the plug that i am supposed to disconnect that is located on top of the intake is not located on top of my intake it is with a couple other plugs on my tranny have any of you seen this?
second the new plug will not fit the connection, old one is shorter and rounder new one is longer and squarer.
Any ideas did some one go through and Frankenstein some wire in and maybe I have the connection older Cherokee in my 2000?
04-17-2017, 01:48 PM
#3
On my '99 and '98 the CPS (crank position sensor) connector is NOT on top of the intake manifold. On both, the connector is near the rear of the drivers side engine. They are connected to a small bracket. the parts interchanges I see show the same CPS for 98,99, 2000 and 2001. What is the part # of the CPS fro the dealer.
04-17-2017, 01:50 PM
#4
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No, do not force the plug in. Those plugs are from different years.
The rounder plug is from 96 and older. The rectangular is from 96+ and newer (I have a 96 with the newer rectangular plugs).
Did your XJ get an engine swapped in at some point from an older XJ?
Do you seen any evidence that someone manually "spliced" in the older style connection at some point (perhaps because they found the parts at a junk yard and just made it work)?
The rounder plug is from 96 and older. The rectangular is from 96+ and newer (I have a 96 with the newer rectangular plugs).
Did your XJ get an engine swapped in at some point from an older XJ?
Do you seen any evidence that someone manually "spliced" in the older style connection at some point (perhaps because they found the parts at a junk yard and just made it work)?
04-17-2017, 02:16 PM
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Just thought I'd toss this in this thread. Written for 87-90, but still applies somewhat.
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
Renix Only
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use it to haul up the new CPS. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
Renix Only
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use it to haul up the new CPS. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
04-17-2017, 08:15 PM
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Well I did get it pushed in I don't know if the pictures show but the connects are very similar. Now the jeep has a ruff idle at about 500 rpms 
any ideas of what the cause of this is?
any ideas of what the cause of this is?
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04-18-2017, 08:54 AM
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On my '99 and '98 the CPS (crank position sensor) connector is NOT on top of the intake manifold. On both, the connector is near the rear of the drivers side engine. They are connected to a small bracket. the parts interchanges I see show the same CPS for 98,99, 2000 and 2001. What is the part # of the CPS fro the dealer.
04-19-2017, 02:39 PM
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So you are forcing parts together that were never meant to? If a shop did this to my vehicle, id be giving the manager an ear full. Why the rough idle? No idea. I never tried forcing parts together to make them work. I always sent the part back and exchanged it for the right one. No shortcuts.
04-19-2017, 02:56 PM
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Just thought I'd toss this in this thread. Written for 87-90, but still applies somewhat.
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
Renix Only
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use it to haul up the new CPS. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
Renix Only
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use it to haul up the new CPS. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
04-19-2017, 08:30 PM
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Yea! Thank the forum here. Long forgotten who posted a link to that method. Yep, I did my first for the PO of one of my Jeeps, pre-CF to me. Forget if it was 7 hrs or days!...The second one can take 10 minutes! (with the string, the ramps, and tools all right there.)
04-19-2017, 10:34 PM
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Get the right part. No if and or butts! Take the old one in and make sure. Twisted Wrench is right 100%, well almost. You know that blinker fluid only works when trying to lube the horn...