wewsel

Ok, It's been a while since I've been here because the Heep has been on the back burner.... It's a 98 4.0 2wd auto. It will run fine for about 20 to 30 minutes, then it will start stalling, eventually it will not start back until I let it sit for a few hours. It has a check engine light on with a code for the trans low pressure and one for an intermittent cps signal. Once it stalls out completely, it starts throwing ten or eleven codes. I've swapped computers with no difference. I'm planning to change the crank sensor, and one of the o2 sensors(one of the codes is o2 shorting to hot).The trans issue i believe is due to one of the cooler lines leaking at the quick disco at the trans, so it will be going to the trans shop as soon as I can get it running good enough to make it there. Maybe they can find out why it trys to take off in third then down shifts and then loses od. I'm mainly just wondering if anyone else has had issues like this, or if I just found the worst Jeep Cherokee on the planet. The trans issue has been there from day one, that's the reason I got it so cheap to begin with. But I have driven it to Florida from Louisiana just having to start off shifting it to first manually. The other issues started and it just got parked. I have driven it since on a couple of occasions and as soon as it started acting up, I got it home asap. Its income tax time, so it's time to put some money into it and get her back on the road. I miss driving her and am chomping at the bit to get back behind the wheel.

93XJLI

sounds like the crank sensor is def causing the main part of the problem.

wewsel

I figured that, just wondering if anyone else had this problem with the crank sensor. Most just go out and won't start. Never heard of them doing all the other weird stuff along with it, i.e. the numerous check engine codes when it fails and starting back after a while. I've been scratching my head for a while on this, possibly over thinking it. maybe if I start throwing money at it, it will start making since...

w0dlr

I have 1990 Cherokee that does the same thing. The CPS change out did not change a thing. It still misses just like it did and just like your does.

I have changed damn near ever sensor on it. Runs for about 30 minutes and then misses bad enough you have to pull over immediately. Sits a while then it will run again for maybe another 30 minutes.

I''ll never own another one.
Dave in Missouri

Nor-CalJeeper

Map sensor and heat soak to the injectors is my theory along with a bad CPS or bad wiring to the CPS.

Also check all of the grounds on the block and underneath the dash by the steering column

HTX XJ

mine also did that on my last XJ, it would run fine until it got hot then i could stop it for a while unplug and plug the CPS back in and it would crank right up

wewsel

Sorry, it's been a while since I've been on.

Changed the crank sensor out and it started running ok. I say ok because she's kinda low on power most of the time (won't even spin a wheel in the rain). Still getting CEL. It flashes at me when I've been driving her back and forth to work. Haven't had a chance to hook it up to my computer to see what's going on.

Had both shift solenoids changed out in the tranny, now she shifts like she's supposed to.

She's developed a knocking sound in the bell housing, not the normal "only while cranking" sound, but a constant tap. May be connected to the CEL.

The last time i drove her, she felt like a new Jeep, barking the tires, Real quick acceleration. This lasted most of my way home. (tapping still present) But as I made My last turn towards my house I felt the power die back down and she was back to feeling like she's being choked or something.

I still haven't figured out why my a/c and electric fan aren't working right. For now I have the fan on a toggle switch, when I'm in traffic or stopped I turn it on to keep her cool. I can jump the pressure switch and the a/c will come on and cool until it freezes up because of not cycling. ( I only did this once, when I noticed the system freezing over I unhooked it.)

Anyway, That's the update, anyone around Baton Rouge wanna help me change out a flex plate? I'm pretty sure that's where the tapping is coming from. Who knows, that may be my loss of power too, timing on the sensor and all. Why did they put a crank sensor on something with a distributor anyway?

Puertorricancherokee

You should check your cat converter. I had an old chevy, and looooong time ago it started stalling after some driving. I kept like that until once going over a hill, it lost so much power that we couldnt continue. After a while, when the car cooled down, we were able tocontinue. To my surprise when we went to the mechanic, it was the cat that was clogged and ready to be replaced

claygrassmann

for that bell housing tap check your torque converter bolts

wewsel

Cat was changed last summer, it has less than 1000 miles on it. I thought that too last year. As for the torque converter bolts, could be. I had to replace those before I bought it for the girl who owned it before. All four had backed out and she was stranded.

owellwhatever

My 87 had a tap in the bell housing like you described. Flex plate in the torque convertor was cracked and had to be replaced.

wewsel

I've noticed something strange. I know it shouldn't be doing. I can move the flex plate about 2 inches in either direction without moving the crank. Anyony had a problem like this before? This probibly has something to do with it falling on it's face most of the time. Dealing with timing and all.

wewsel

nothing?.... going to the j/y tomorrow to see what I can find. Any suggestions?

4Doors

x2. Do some searching, but I was thinking the same thing in regards to heat soak.

wewsel

I don't believe heat soak is the issue because it acts like that from a fresh start after sitting at work all night (a 12 hour shift). When I had the CPS changed that fixed the problem of it dying and having to wait a few hours to restart. Like I said before, the cat is new. I've checked all grounds I can find with no results.
Like i tried to explain before, I can twist the flywheel back and forth a couple of inches without moving the crank shaft. The only thing I can think of is a bad flywheel, being as the flywheel has the reluctor ring on it, it may be messing with my timing.
Are flywheels year specific?
Again thanks far all who are at least trying to help.