Heater Core Replacement
05-03-2016, 08:29 PM
#31
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12-16-2016, 12:56 PM
#32
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jfats, where abouts do you live. I got a guy who did mine for around 300.00 labor and didnt break anything in the process. had it done in just under three hours. very good. also did my a/c repairs so I figured it was all a good deal for me. had to have it back for next day at work. washington state tacoma area for this guy, he will come to your house if you are local.
Hey Squirrel, is this guy still around? Best quote I've gotten was 1k. I'm in WA- Longview Kelso
12-16-2016, 01:10 PM
#33
Senior Member
Yeah, thats HELLA cheap on a heater core replacement. A buddy of mine owns a shop and said its NORMALLY $1200ish in labor to do my '99 when it went a few years back. He said he had no interest in doing it, even at $1200 because it was such a big job on my '99. I did it myself, and writing down all the steps in order, bagging and labeling all the parts, lunch break, supper break, etc., it took me a weekend. Having done it once, I could probably do it again in 6 hours if I busted butt for the day, but it was NOT a fun or easy job. I ordered the heater core somewhere on line for $32 bucks. Im pretty sure it was Rock Auto.
12-16-2016, 06:04 PM
#34
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1/2 a small tube of Alumaseal brand will plug a small pinhole leak within a week or so, (driving daily). If it doesn't , add the other 1/2. It won't clog anything, and if it did it would be the heater core which looks like it needs changing already. Don't keep at it, if that doesn't work more probably won't help and could cause harm. It can settle in the water jacket back behind #6 where the flow is low. One tube the dia of a quarter and 4" long can't be a problem there.
12-07-2017, 09:19 AM
#35
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Do I need to do this if my ac doesn't work? Would it be worth it to replace evaporator/ anything else while I have the dash off? I am more concerned about the coolant leak/heater issue than anything, but if Im already there I want to do whatever I can
12-07-2017, 11:38 AM
#36
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
My my AC doesn't work either but I don't plan on that being permanent. I'm going to go ahead and do the evaporator at the same time as a heater core. Just makes more sense, unless you never seek to fix the AC unit.
12-08-2017, 11:47 AM
#38
Senior Member
Just because your AC doenst work it doesn't mean you don't have refrigerant in it. Id still take it to a shop and have it evacuated the right way. A small price to be safe (and legal as its illegal to evacuate it yourself into the atmosphere). I would definitely do the evaporator while youre in there. You DONT want to be getting back in there again any time soon. Also, check all your doors and make sure they aren't about to break. Putting it all back together and having your defrost door or blend door go would suck.
05-21-2018, 07:18 PM
#39
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Squirrelnw- contact info
where do you live, I had mine done by a guy local to me here, whole job for cheap on the labor side. like 3 hrs labor. he was done and out the door. very happy camper here and he did it without breaking anything under the dash, you know the stuff, those little plastic things.
05-21-2018, 11:47 PM
#40
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Year: 1997
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If youve ever swung a wrench, you can do a heater core. Its more time consuming than anything else. You already looked it up on Youtube, which many dont even bother with so youre already a step ahead. Good job. BTW, squirrelnw's last activity was 12-06-2013 according to thier profile so it stands to reason they may no longer be part of this forum. 5 years is a long time. Someone else asked for info 3 years later on 12-16-2016 and never got an answer. Its 2018. Take that as a sign.
01-02-2019, 09:56 AM
#41
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Unknown pieces in HVAC box
You MUST evac the cooling system (AC evaporator is in the heater box too) and you MUST "remove" the dash. There is no other way to do a heater core, period. Label all the screws, keep a list of what came out first and youll be all set. Mine as well do the AC evaporator while youre in there for another $32 bucks. I did mine 2 summers ago cause the heater core sprung a leak. Core and evap from Rock Auto for my 99 for something like $65 bucks. Theyve been great since.
ALSO get new gaskets for around the blower fan, you WILL spring a leak once you pull that heater box if you try and reuse the old one.
The steering wheel does NOT need to be pulled, but if you have tilt youll have to disengage it. Pull the dash as far forward as possible and use a bunged cord on the passengers side to a grab bar to hold the dash back far enough to pull the box out. ALSO make sure you get all the ground screws back on tight. I didnt and had the power window working the wipers, the wipers working the radio, etc. DONT check the connections BEFORE tightening everything down, itll only cause MORE problems.
ALSO get new gaskets for around the blower fan, you WILL spring a leak once you pull that heater box if you try and reuse the old one.
The steering wheel does NOT need to be pulled, but if you have tilt youll have to disengage it. Pull the dash as far forward as possible and use a bunged cord on the passengers side to a grab bar to hold the dash back far enough to pull the box out. ALSO make sure you get all the ground screws back on tight. I didnt and had the power window working the wipers, the wipers working the radio, etc. DONT check the connections BEFORE tightening everything down, itll only cause MORE problems.
2000 xj hvac parts unknown?
01-02-2019, 10:44 AM
#42
CF Veteran
Just wanted to update this thread since I see many others asking about this.
I went ahead and ripped out the dash and replaced the heater core, ac evaporator, and blower motor.
For the people that said you don't have to get your AC discharged or you don't have to remove the entire dash... you must be magicians!
Even if you're only replacing the heater core, you have to discharge the AC in order to remove the heater box.
Take the time to do it right: Have a shop discharge the AC. Remove all the dash panels and pull the whole dash out of the way. Remove the heater box, and replace all the parts (no sense in doing this again). Be sure to wrap the heater core and ac evaporator with weather stripping to keep them from rattling. Take care in putting things back without pinching wires or leaving loose wires to rattle.
The 3 speed bumps I hit were: removing the nuts from the firewall that secure the heater box, re-assembling the heater box (the top did not want to line up correctly), and fitting the heater box back into position (getting those studs through the firewall was tricky).
This job took me 14 hours. I got quotes from 3 shops, the lowest was $1400. My cost was $625 - that includes ac discharge & recharge, and garage rental for a full day (since I live in an apartment complex).
If you're looking into doing this, feel free to pm me - I'd be glad to share what I learned.
Cheers!
I went ahead and ripped out the dash and replaced the heater core, ac evaporator, and blower motor.
For the people that said you don't have to get your AC discharged or you don't have to remove the entire dash... you must be magicians!
Even if you're only replacing the heater core, you have to discharge the AC in order to remove the heater box.
Take the time to do it right: Have a shop discharge the AC. Remove all the dash panels and pull the whole dash out of the way. Remove the heater box, and replace all the parts (no sense in doing this again). Be sure to wrap the heater core and ac evaporator with weather stripping to keep them from rattling. Take care in putting things back without pinching wires or leaving loose wires to rattle.
The 3 speed bumps I hit were: removing the nuts from the firewall that secure the heater box, re-assembling the heater box (the top did not want to line up correctly), and fitting the heater box back into position (getting those studs through the firewall was tricky).
This job took me 14 hours. I got quotes from 3 shops, the lowest was $1400. My cost was $625 - that includes ac discharge & recharge, and garage rental for a full day (since I live in an apartment complex).
If you're looking into doing this, feel free to pm me - I'd be glad to share what I learned.
Cheers!
02-21-2022, 08:26 PM
#44
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Wrapping the heater core and AC evap do you have an example. I never heard of this. M
Just wanted to update this thread since I see many others asking about this.
I went ahead and ripped out the dash and replaced the heater core, ac evaporator, and blower motor.
For the people that said you don't have to get your AC discharged or you don't have to remove the entire dash... you must be magicians!
Even if you're only replacing the heater core, you have to discharge the AC in order to remove the heater box.
Take the time to do it right: Have a shop discharge the AC. Remove all the dash panels and pull the whole dash out of the way. Remove the heater box, and replace all the parts (no sense in doing this again). Be sure to wrap the heater core and ac evaporator with weather stripping to keep them from rattling. Take care in putting things back without pinching wires or leaving loose wires to rattle.
The 3 speed bumps I hit were: removing the nuts from the firewall that secure the heater box, re-assembling the heater box (the top did not want to line up correctly), and fitting the heater box back into position (getting those studs through the firewall was tricky).
This job took me 14 hours. I got quotes from 3 shops, the lowest was $1400. My cost was $625 - that includes ac discharge & recharge, and garage rental for a full day (since I live in an apartment complex).
If you're looking into doing this, feel free to pm me - I'd be glad to share what I learned.
Cheers!
I went ahead and ripped out the dash and replaced the heater core, ac evaporator, and blower motor.
For the people that said you don't have to get your AC discharged or you don't have to remove the entire dash... you must be magicians!
Even if you're only replacing the heater core, you have to discharge the AC in order to remove the heater box.
Take the time to do it right: Have a shop discharge the AC. Remove all the dash panels and pull the whole dash out of the way. Remove the heater box, and replace all the parts (no sense in doing this again). Be sure to wrap the heater core and ac evaporator with weather stripping to keep them from rattling. Take care in putting things back without pinching wires or leaving loose wires to rattle.
The 3 speed bumps I hit were: removing the nuts from the firewall that secure the heater box, re-assembling the heater box (the top did not want to line up correctly), and fitting the heater box back into position (getting those studs through the firewall was tricky).
This job took me 14 hours. I got quotes from 3 shops, the lowest was $1400. My cost was $625 - that includes ac discharge & recharge, and garage rental for a full day (since I live in an apartment complex).
If you're looking into doing this, feel free to pm me - I'd be glad to share what I learned.
Cheers!
02-21-2022, 08:34 PM
#45
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What Gasket are these?
You MUST evac the cooling system (AC evaporator is in the heater box too) and you MUST "remove" the dash. There is no other way to do a heater core, period. Label all the screws, keep a list of what came out first and youll be all set. Mine as well do the AC evaporator while youre in there for another $32 bucks. I did mine 2 summers ago cause the heater core sprung a leak. Core and evap from Rock Auto for my 99 for something like $65 bucks. Theyve been great since.
ALSO get new gaskets for around the blower fan, you WILL spring a leak once you pull that heater box if you try and reuse the old one.
The steering wheel does NOT need to be pulled, but if you have tilt youll have to disengage it. Pull the dash as far forward as possible and use a bunged cord on the passengers side to a grab bar to hold the dash back far enough to pull the box out. ALSO make sure you get all the ground screws back on tight. I didnt and had the power window working the wipers, the wipers working the radio, etc. DONT check the connections BEFORE tightening everything down, itll only cause MORE problems.
ALSO get new gaskets for around the blower fan, you WILL spring a leak once you pull that heater box if you try and reuse the old one.
The steering wheel does NOT need to be pulled, but if you have tilt youll have to disengage it. Pull the dash as far forward as possible and use a bunged cord on the passengers side to a grab bar to hold the dash back far enough to pull the box out. ALSO make sure you get all the ground screws back on tight. I didnt and had the power window working the wipers, the wipers working the radio, etc. DONT check the connections BEFORE tightening everything down, itll only cause MORE problems.