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Heater control valve leaking

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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 08:51 AM
  #1  
ajfran3's Avatar
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From: Greensboro
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default Heater control valve leaking

My heater control valve is leaking thankfully it was in my driveway and not while I'm out on th road. I got it from O'Reilly's in September last year so it's out of warranty. Are there any good brands for these heater control valves or am I better off just getting hoses for a 97+ model and bypassing it completely. I'll still be able to control if I want heat or ac won't I, it won't always be blowing hot just the heater core will always have coolant flowing through it. Are there any consequences for bypassing it.
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 09:11 AM
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From: Eastern Shore Maryland
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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I would delete yes 97+ hoses. Don't forget to cap off the vacuum hose that controls the valve. While your at it flush the heater core very good. You will not notice any difference at all in function, and with a fully flushed core you won't have to worry about fluid setting in there for a long period as it is always flowing.
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 11:03 AM
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From: Greensboro
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Originally Posted by Phydeaux33
I would delete yes 97+ hoses. Don't forget to cap off the vacuum hose that controls the valve. While your at it flush the heater core very good. You will not notice any difference at all in function, and with a fully flushed core you won't have to worry about fluid setting in there for a long period as it is always flowing.
Thank you where does the top hose from the heater run too and where should I run the bottom one too.
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 03:11 PM
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From: Eastern Shore Maryland
Year: 1988
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Hose from thermostat housing goes to the bottom, hose from water pump goes to the top.

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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 04:56 PM
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From: Eastern Shore Maryland
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The picture is of a 2.5L but the flow and hook up is the same for the 4.0L If you are doing an easy open system convert the cap fitting goes in the top radiator hose flowing into the radiator.
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 06:08 PM
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From: Greensboro
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Originally Posted by Phydeaux33
The picture is of a 2.5L but the flow and hook up is the same for the 4.0L If you are doing an easy open system convert the cap fitting goes in the top radiator hose flowing into the radiator.
Last question what size are the hoses I need. I read the one that attached to the thermostat is 3/4 and the other is 5/8. Is that correct. Also I cannot see the image you posted. Thank you for the help and your patience I appreciate it
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 11:11 PM
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
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just ask for 97 cherokee hoses. they eliminated the valve after 96.
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Old Jan 4, 2025 | 11:12 AM
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From: Portage la Prairie, Manitoba
Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0
Default Leaky valve, poor heat.

I could smell that smell of hot anti-freeze. Never good. Noticed that green drip and stain on the stupid flow control valve. What? Again?

Quick research showed that removing it was not an issue. I was prepared to delete it for winter and bypass for summer if necessary.

pretty easy. Clamp off the heater hoses on the engine side of the valve with long jaw vice grips with rags to prevent the jaws from cutting into the hoses. Remove the 4 clamps on the stupid valve, replace the valve with 2, 5/8” straight thru connectors. $5 each at NAPA. (Maybe the hoses were originally 5/8 and 11/16, but someone, me?, had replaced everything with 5/8.)

i also spent quite a bit of time flushing the heater core. First against the flow, then back and forth many times until the water ran clear and there was no more sediment.

all good, and just in time to conquer Manitoba’s recent -30 C temps. That’s -22 on the old Fahrenheit scale. Lotsa heat now! The core hasn’t been replaced so 1993 is 32 years ago.
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