i would definitely advise you just do the repair. You won't be sorry, and this will never happen again. The cause is definitely the extra load caused by the h4 conversion (as was mine). Annnnnd you'll get the added bonus that your lights will be MUCH brigher (it was VERY noticeable when driving).

The harness is only $19, and you get an additional 30%(?) off with code "JeepForum". Took all of 15 minutes to install - just plug and play. Absolutely one of the best mods i've done to my jeep yet.
http://www.eautoworks.com/product-ea...com-189849.htm

 

Okay. That's the H4/9003 Head Lamp Heavy Wattage Wiring System Kit. Got it. Thanks. The smell of the melting connector and wire insulation will be a thing of the past (after receipt and installation). In the meanwhile, I'll avoid using the headlamps as much as possible.

 

I cant find that kit "H4/9003 Head Lamp Heavy Wattage Wiring System" Kit on the internet anywhere. Can someone help me out?

 

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx

 

I am having the same problem, but its very rare. I would also like a boost in light output. The link you posted to eauto is not working do you know a part number or another way I could look it up?

 

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx

 

I looked it up last night and that's what I found, I just wanted to be sure. Thanks

 

Just got it in, and before I get started is this an under the dash set up or under the hood?

 

under hood. Take the grille and headlight buckets off to help route the wires. I screwed the relays to the fender behind the battery.

 

Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
　
It's easy to install a supplemental headlight harness.

From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire. It's not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps.

The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 30% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don't melt and burn out.
　
　

Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.

Revised 12/10/2012

 

Thanks guys, ill post again when I'm finished.

 

Awesome, I love this kit. My headlight low beam out put went from 50,273 lux to 88,079 lux. I recommend this to everyone. I spent the extra time and pulled the whole front clip off and fallowed the OEM wire harness.

 

Nice job. How did you measure the "lux"?

 

iPhone app Luxmeter, it may seem ridiculous but I measured my head lights a few different times and at different times of day 1 inch from the lamp and it was pretty consistent.

 

Next week I'm wireing up my A pillar mounted light force 140s. Should I put them in a switch or on my high beams?