Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
(Post 2671898)
My only confusion is that somewhere in circuit #1, isn't it connected to the battery, since the old circuit used to power the headlights? We have not removed that connection. So doesn't the same amount of current go through the headlight switch still? Or is current determined by what is drawing power from the circuit. Headlights themselves are no longer on circuit #1, so it that why there is less current flowing through circuit #1?
(ie: Is current supplied at a fixed rate, or does it depend on what is drawing the current (headlights) 1.) Voltage 2.) Amperage 3.) Watts Voltage is constant based on the electrical system (12v) and has no effect on the switch until a load is applied. Amperage and watts work together to create a load on the circuit. Amperage is equal to total watts divided by voltage so in the case of your headlights which are typically 55/65 watts each (x2) the total load from your headlights would be 110-130 watts which would result in a ~10 amp load. Remember that picture prcherokee posted of the Jetta with a bunch of lumber on the roof? In that scenario, the Jetta represents your headlight switch and all the crap on the roof represents the load. You have to get that lumber to your house (think headlights) but as you can see, the Jetta isn't really equipped to carry that load to it's destination. Now imagine a flatbed truck named Relay shows up and you move the load from the Jetta to the truck. All the Jetta has to do now is give the truck directions to it's house, the truck carries the load. |
Originally Posted by F1Addict
(Post 2672243)
YAY! There are three things we're dealing with here:
1.) Voltage 2.) Amperage 3.) Watts Voltage is constant based on the electrical system (12v) and has no effect on the switch until a load is applied. Amperage and watts work together to create a load on the circuit. Amperage is equal to total watts divided by voltage so in the case of your headlights which are typically 55/65 watts each (x2) the total load from your headlights would be 110-130 watts which would result in a ~10 amp load. Remember that picture prcherokee posted of the Jetta with a bunch of lumber on the roof? In that scenario, the Jetta represents your headlight switch and all the crap on the roof represents the load. You have to get that lumber to your house (think headlights) but as you can see, the Jetta isn't really equipped to carry that load to it's destination. Now imagine a flatbed truck named Relay shows up and you move the load from the Jetta to the truck. All the Jetta has to do now is give the truck directions to it's house, the truck carries the load. |
X2.
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
(Post 2672190)
But, you forgot two things...
1. Adjusting the headlights. Torx T20 on the newer Jeeps, IIRC. I had to adjust mine afterwards because they were so much brighter. People hated me. 2. If your 97+ XJ has factory fogs, you'll run into an issue with lows staying on with highs. The best fix I've found is to simply pull the factory fog relay and make your own harness for the fogs. 2) No fogs. |
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
BJ, the reason you're having so much trouble is not the Jeep's fault. It's a rust bucket!!! Any rusty vehicle is gonna be a PITA. |
Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
(Post 2673451)
1) I didn't forget this. However, my passenger side headlight's Torx got stripped. Yup, with a Jeep, even adjusting your headlights is a project! I will get someone to try to drill out the hex screw, and I'll try to get a new one from the dealer. I think it's part number: 55054621 http://www.jeep4x4center.com/headlam...-55054621.html
2) No fogs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-OEM-55054621AB-Headlamp-Sealed-Beam-Adjuster-/121211463626?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item1c38c427ca&vxp=mtr |
Just ordered a harness for myself. Looking forward to actually working on this heep, I mean Jeep. Is this theory the same reason my power windows are slow?
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Originally Posted by shum8
(Post 2673679)
Just ordered a harness for myself. Looking forward to actually working on this heep, I mean Jeep. Is this theory the same reason my power windows are slow?
Nah the powet windows are from lubricant drying up and getting thick with dust and dirt. Cleaning and regreasing of the assemblies will bring them back to life. |
Originally Posted by shum8
(Post 2673679)
Just ordered a harness for myself. Looking forward to actually working on this heep, I mean Jeep. Is this theory the same reason my power windows are slow?
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I've been waging war on Torx bolts on my Jeep. If possible, I'd like to find NORMAL fasteners to replace the headlight adjustment torx. I've stripped, drilled, cut, drilled, swore, ground out with a dremel, swore a lot more, and probably shed some blood over fighting various Torx bolts in my rusty Jeep. It came down to me not having a good quality Torx bit and also the fact that my XJ is rusty too. One bolt at a time, I'm replacing them with stainless hex heads, starting with the door hinges.
Originally Posted by carbuff
There are 2 sizes of torx that will fit in this screw I believe. One will fit loose and strip fairly quickly (wrong size) and the next size will fit nice and snug. These screws are only screwed into a plastic lug so they should turn fairly easily once unstuck. Its possible that you used the smaller torx that stripped and the larger one might still work. I believe you can buy the whole adjuster assembly off the Help rack at Advance auto or in the lighting section. The dealer will probably charge an arm and a leg for a tiny little part. If the plastic lug is not broken you can probably just replace the screw from a cheap one from advance. You need number 4 in this auction.
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Good Job, Bimmer. You do good work. I'm proud of you.
It won't be long and you'll be just as fast at this stuff as all the rest of us. |
Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
(Post 2673834)
I've been waging war on Torx bolts on my Jeep. If possible, I'd like to find NORMAL fasteners to replace the headlight adjustment torx. I've stripped, drilled, cut, drilled, swore, ground out with a dremel, swore a lot more, and probably shed some blood over fighting various Torx bolts in my rusty Jeep. It came down to me not having a good quality Torx bit and also the fact that my XJ is rusty too. One bolt at a time, I'm replacing them with stainless hex heads, starting with the door hinges.
I'm not so sure that is correct for the 97+ models. The diagram is certainly different. Didn't pre-97 have a regular hex head for the adjuster? |
Originally Posted by carbuff
(Post 2673990)
Im not sure as to why some have torx and some have philips head. My retaining ring screws were philips but others have torx. Mines a 2000. Im just going by what he said he had which was torx. The diagram in that auction looks a bit funky but its listed as the right part for those years. I also hate those stupid round headed torx bolts. It makes simple jobs so much harder.
Torx is the debbil! :icon_evil::icon_evil::cursing: |
If only they used heavy wire at the factory...
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Originally Posted by pdowty68
(Post 2674021)
If only they used heavy wire at the factory...
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