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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I would like to know what sealant to use with the front head bolt on the driver's side that requires it and if that's the only bolt that needs it. I've read up on this and used the search feature and Google'd it. It seems only one bolt needs it.
I also would like to know the torque pattern and specs. I got the from Autozone, however after working there for a while I don't completely trust them. I just ordered a Haynes manual, dunno if it will get to me in time.
My problem was white vapor pouring out the tailpipe. There was a massive hole in one freeze plug that I discovered. Could this lack of coolant cause the vapor? It only ran 1-2 minutes to be moved so I could tow it. I would not "smoke" until it got to temps. I kept dumping coolant into it the entire time to no avail.
I didn't notice any symptoms or damage to the gaskets or any large amount of sludge after taking everything apart.
I decided to replace quite a few things as preventative maintenance. I'm taking the head in for testing just in case.
What sealant should I use for the headbolt.
Could the lack of coolant due to freeze plug cause vapor?
What are the torque specs for the headbolts?
What is the torque pattern for the headbolts?
Thanks.
Here are two teasers to the awesome video I'm making of my entire XJ build:
You probably should get a haynes manual for your Cherokee, Amigo.
First step in torquing the head bolts will be to 22 lb
second step should be to 45
thrid step should be to 110...except for bolt 11 which should be to 100.
bolt 11 is the front drivers side, and this is also the one you need to seal to prevent coolant from coming through it.
13 14
9 10
5 6
1 2
4 3
8 7
12 11
p front d
While you have the head off, I'd scrub it down big time. Maybe use scotchbrite in an angle grinder.
You probably should get a haynes manual for your Cherokee, Amigo. First step in torquing the head bolts will be to 22 lb second step should be to 45 thrid step should be to 110...except for bolt 11 which should be to 100. bolt 11 is the front drivers side, and this is also the one you need to seal to prevent coolant from coming through it. 13 14 9 10 5 6 1 2 4 3 8 7 12 11 p front d While you have the head off, I'd scrub it down big time. Maybe use scotchbrite in an angle grinder.
actually when u torque the bolts to 45 lbs, u are supposed to go around again and torque to make sure they all are at 45 lbs again. Before proceeding to torque them down to 110 lbs, except for #11 bolt of course.
Yes the number 11 bolt is only one u need to use the sealant... I forgot what kind but I can go take a picture (I still have the tube) in the morning.
Thank you for the information on the sealant.
I do not have the information that autozone gave me on hand (it's in my jeep not near me), however this information sounds different and more of what I read.
I ordered a Haynes manual yesterday and would hold off working until then.
Thank you everyone!
If there's anything else anyone wants to add I'm always open to suggestions.
Some people swear by it, but I hate doing it. It makes a big mess, gets everywhere, looks terrible, and simply isn't need if you do it right.
I just used red rtv on the water jacket bolt. No problems 20k miles later.
Oh and on the four jeeps I've done headgaskets on I've always used an angle grinder with a wire wheel to clean the block off. I'm sure ill get flamed for that.
DO NOT RTV THE INTAKE/EXHAUST GASKET. Some people swear by it, but I hate doing it. It makes a big mess, gets everywhere, looks terrible, and simply isn't need if you do it right. I just used red rtv on the water jacket bolt. No problems 20k miles later. Oh and on the four jeeps I've done headgaskets on I've always used an angle grinder with a wire wheel to clean the block off. I'm sure ill get flamed for that.
I've always used an angle grinder with a wire wheel to clean the block off. I'm sure ill get flamed for that.
No flaming here. I do that with all iron heads to get the carbon off. If warranted, I've done it to the piston tops as well. If you look at the head surface, you can usually see the machining marks and theyre as deep as any light duty wire wheel scratches. Besides the head gasket has compounds that will fill in the scratches to promote a seal.
If in doubt, a scotchbrite pad will also do the trick but not as quick and sometimes it just burnishes the deposit. In that case, a razor blade can get at it.
When dealing with aluminum, i only use scotchbrite and elbow grease if the razor wont easily scrape it off.
Ok, so I've got Red sealant for the one bolt that needs it, the Haynes manual, my head machined and a MLS head gasket. I have one more question before hopefully buttoning everything up:
Are the metal rivets supposed to be where they are? I mean will they interfere with the seal? I feel it's a dumb question, however it's bothering me.
I asked elsewhere first, here was the answer I got:
"
Yes it is a MLS; aka Multi-Layer-Steel design. The rivets are outside the
area of the gasket being compressed between the head and block and thus
present no problem. Thanks for choosing Victor Reinz!
Kind regards,
Bill McKnight
MAHLE Aftermarket Inc.
Marketing (Team Leader-Training)"
11-18-2014, 05:54 PM
Headgasket in progress...A few questions
nice for my collection lol
