chudl3y

hey everyone just got a jeep for 800 bucks its a 1990 cherokee auto with 4 wheel drive. only 122k miles however the reason got it so cheap was wiring is all messed up. they installed an aftermarket oil temp guage and have the raditor plastic fan on a switch. however the brights work but not the regular lights them self!! any help or guidence to the right derection would be most appreciated!!! thanks for reading jeep gurus!!!!
andrew
albuquerque

Aldakoopa

On my Trans Am a while back when I first got it, the brights didn't work. I got to working on the front end and found out they had rewired the headlights after an accident and only bothered to hook up the dims.

So, if the wires are all there for the headlights themselves, you'll want to check out your headlight bright/dim switch on your steering column.

BIG TIRES

Had to replace my headlight switch once. Evidently the originals are susceptible to failure. Mine almost melted. They're not too bad to replace... just a little contorting under the dash with a mini mag lite in your mouth. Shop the net for a replacement. I found 1A Auto Parts.com had the best price and got the part in three days! They have pics too so you can be sure you get the right one.

peep

Sounds like the headlight dimmer switch, under the dash on top left side of the steering column near the base, has a rod actuator coming down the left side of the column, same switch used by gm and ford also, about $70 cdn, dealer or napa. Plug with about 4 prongs on it, contortionist to remove the two screws, once you have replaced it 4 or 5 times it gets easier. Check out your wires on the plug in, the light greens are for your low beams. If they look cooked then there are some problems downline. If looking downline, next check the connector at left front of vehicle between inner fender and front left of air box, just behind the left light as the wire harness is about to exit the engine compartment, that connector is prone to corrode. I have had the power wire (larger red) in the connections cross over causing light switch overloading and burnouts. I did away with the pooched multi connector and joined each wire seperately.It is in a spot that's hard to inspect, removal of the air box makes access much easier. If your green wires look ok at the dimmer switch then all the better. Good luck.