I guess you used to be able to get sodium silicate at the RX.

 

Bar's Leaks is the only one I've found that seals small leaks but does not clog the radiator. But, use ONLY ONE small can.
The Aluminum stuff clogs terribly.
Once you've taken apart a few radiators you'll see the difference.

The oil leak - very unlikely a head gasket - they don't leak oil to the outside world.
Very likely the oil sending unit - they are famous for that.

Check to make sure BOTH hoses on top of the valve cover are open and free.

Clean it, then drive it to see where the leak is coming from.

 

I've seen how too much of the aluminum powder can settle in areas with low flow. Found an inch of it in the water jacket back around #6 (on a straight six) once. A little worked like a charm for my Jeep heater core. Stopped stinking and fogging the windshield. A year later I could still see "sparkles" in my coolant. Then reciently, I finally solved my under temperature problem.

Cant's say I've had a problem with bars-leak. When I saw those globs, I didn't put it in my system. Just didn't look right to me.

 

The leak is very very small, only noticeable when we took everything off to do the work, could see the orange on one side. The advice of a 25 year mechanic who has done the work on thousands of jeeps said put in bars leak...

Will tackle the oil issue after school gets out, been checking the oil, seems to be a lot less of an issue than assumed because the mechanic drove it and did a few small stuff to it while we did the pump and all that and the jeep drives amazingly better now, but will keep doing each little thing one by one...

His suggestion was hit the front end shock absorbers next. Tcase fluid change wasn't high up on his suggestion list but understood it would be nice to know the mileage on the fluids itself.

 

Any update?

 

Actually tightening the bolts on the valve cover helped reduce the oil that was leaking and it was real small to begin with. Haven't done much since, money's been tight and the jeep is driving great. Drove it 200 miles round trip twice with at least a thousand pounds in the back. Know I need a new rear leaf in the back...

 

when my engine is hot, when I come to a stop, there is a small delayed movement forward. My mechanic says it's the automatic clutch plate pad being thinned down from its age and doesn't need to be replaced until it completely gives out and a new tranny is needed?

 

Na, you can just do the clutch, if the trany is OK.

Some good stuff on getting to the clutch here>>> http://borntourist.com/gallery2/v/mo...tch/?g2_page=1

 

not going to address this for a while. Have tcase fluid change, rear leaf change, front shock absorbers, and valve gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets to do before I get to the other stuff..

 

My mom was 1/2 deaf and liked manuals, I took one out with a whisk broom. "can you see why it doesn't go?". Yea I'd allow plenty time for it, there's lots of other stuff to mess when you've gone that far. That said you might want to do it before you end up out of town in 4 inches of mud and pouring rain!