Wolfmann

I am going to be doing the head gasket on my 2000 xj soon. It is seeping oil out the connecting rod side of my block between cylinder 3 and 4 so i may need a new head. I was hoping anyone could tell me things i will need when changing the gasket, i know most everything i need, i was just hoping someone could remind me of things i will need and should look for. Just a side note: i am not a complete idiot. Thanks

RTorrez1

As you mentioned possibly a new head since you have a 2000 which means you have the crappy 0331 head. I would recommend having the head checked out really good not just for cracks like you mentioned between #3 and 4 but also to see if it is still straight. Hopefully you won't have to buy a new head and it's just the head gasket. But unfortunately it's more likely you will have to. Good luck and let us know how everything goes.

Wolfmann

Thanks, i was gunna have that done first, if the head is warped then im gunna grab one from the salvage yard because i cant afford a new one

DFlintstone

I just want to second what RT is sayen, You might google that 0331...No personal experience myself. I guess if you see a "TUPY" foundry mark inside under the oil cap it's a "revised" 0331. Best to you.

Wolfmann

I looked down in just now and i could only make out some lettering or numbering down in there i couldnt tell exactly, i even tried to clean it off with a rag on a screw driver..... So if it did say "tupy" then it would mean my head was a revised casting of the crack/warping prone 0331?

jebmccall

tupy is the revised version.

Wolfmann

Anyone have any further input

XJGunny

If the head checks out all you'll need is the head gasket kit (comes with all needed gaskets). You'll also need new head bolts, only good for one torque. I'm going to be doing my second head gasket job on another 0331 head in the near future.

DFlintstone

You sure Gunny? I thought the bolts were good for two.

I've checked for flat with a carpenters level and a feeler gauge, checked valve sealing by putting it on edge and putting diesel in the ports, and "lapped" valves with compound, a hand drill connected to the valve stem with fuel line, and had fine results. BUT, that's not for everyone. I can't even say a professional shop could find a crack in an 0331 magnafluxing...

I assume you meant "push-rod" side. I might just re-torque the head, and see... Just a thought.

Wolfmann

Maybe ill try re-torquing then, i was just wondering because i have 228k on the motor so if i pull the head i may do cam and lifters aswell as valves, the lower end is still good.

Wolfmann

Is there anything else you replaced when you pulled the head?

IGeeky1

Just some numbers to throw at you when considering new head vs used. New cylinder head is roughly $450 shipped. It has new valves and springs, valve seals etc

If you get a used head from say a 2004 grand cherokee it may well run you $200, surfacing and magnaflux maybe another $150, if there are any issues with the valves you get really close to the price of a new one.

Now I did go the used route but figure it was good for me because my rocker/pivots were scored and the used one had cherry rocker/pivots so that saved me maybe $100

Just giving you thoughts to chew on

IGeeky1

manifold gasket of course, factory says head bolts are good for two uses but most people replace anyway for $35.

I would certainly pull a couple of the lifter/tappets and take a look at them. Prior to removing the rocker bolts wiggle the push rods and see if any are loose, if so, those ore the lifters to check.

While valve cover is off it is a good time to replace the ccv(pcv) valves and grommets if they are old and hard..maybe $10 ish for both

loctite 592 I think it was for bolt 11... double check that number

And if you don't already have a torque wrench capable of 110ft lb, consider that part of the expense of this project...

Zack92MJ

Not to hijack but its on the same topic...

So what does everyone recommend on replacing wile you have everything opened up? I have a 92 that needs a head gasket with 180K miles and I figure that when I have it all opened up I might as well rebuild it.

Should I just get a master rebuild kit?

XJGunny

Nothing else was really required other than the obvious fluids. I replaced the head bolts because they were only another 30 bucks. I did replace the PCV because it was damaged but if everything you pull off is in good operable shape the only thing you need is the big gasket kit. It comes with all the gaskets, O-rings and seals to do the job. I suggest the head bolts because the last thing you want to do is use gaskets that cost around $150 and have to redo the job because a head bolt doesn't hold torque or breaks off in the head/ block. I didn't read anywhere it says that they are good for a second torque, just going off past experience doing head jobs mostly with Chevy motors. I did that one several years ago using a chilton manual. Make sure you use anti-seize, lock- tight and any lubricants where applicable.