Head Gasket/0331 Possibility
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 69
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks everyone - the new head arrived yesterday, so my weekend is PLANNED!
I have my cardboard already for the rockers, pushrods, etc - I figured I'd bag the items that can't be "pushed" into the cardboard, and put a hole in the bag for the rod to go through & into the cardboard to keep them all in place.
I will have at least a half-running vehicle to limp to the parts store around the corner - hopefully I will have something better, but the parts store is literally less than a 1/4 mile from the house, so even a bike ride would only take 15 min (but trying to avoid that!)
I'll keep yinz posted with the progress - breakdown starts Friday evening! Thanks again, everyone.
I have my cardboard already for the rockers, pushrods, etc - I figured I'd bag the items that can't be "pushed" into the cardboard, and put a hole in the bag for the rod to go through & into the cardboard to keep them all in place.
I will have at least a half-running vehicle to limp to the parts store around the corner - hopefully I will have something better, but the parts store is literally less than a 1/4 mile from the house, so even a bike ride would only take 15 min (but trying to avoid that!)
I'll keep yinz posted with the progress - breakdown starts Friday evening! Thanks again, everyone.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 69
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And yes - the new head did come w/new valve springs, etc. Just need to reinstall the rockers & pushrods in the correct positions.
So for my 'final pre-start' run to the parts store, I'm going to pick up some thread sealer, gasket sealer, some assembly lube/grease, and anti-sieze. I'll try to get some pics of the new head as well, since I went with National.
So for my 'final pre-start' run to the parts store, I'm going to pick up some thread sealer, gasket sealer, some assembly lube/grease, and anti-sieze. I'll try to get some pics of the new head as well, since I went with National.
Also make sure you pull the dowel pins out of the old head and put them in the new one. I forgot to, and twice had to use wooden dowels to line stuff up. I saw a thread somewhere where the stealership sells them for like $3.00 a piece. Exhaust and intake are a pain in the ****, when you ain't got the correct dowels. Also use the cardboard for the valve cover bolts, as some use or hold adapters or wire leads in place, and they should try to go back into the same place if possible.
Jeff
Jeff
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 69
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm going to check the new head tonight to see if the dowels were included, but thanks for the reminder. I also printed out a "how-to" I found on another site, so between the haynes manual, fsm, how-to print out, youtube video, and all of you guys, I'm pretty confident I can bust this out!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 69
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
New head has the dowels included, so I won't have to worry about pulling the old ones. Trying to find places to move some stuff to make more room to lay out parts, etc. More prep for the big weekend project.
I am here if you have any questions. Also torque the fasteners per the FSM or Haynes Manual. I used the Haynes and it seemed to work fine for me. Also have the head magnafluxed to see where the crack is, or even if it's cracked. That's always a good reference for you and others.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 69
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not sure if I'll be able to actually have the old one magnafluxed, just due to the financial aspect of it. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to see the crack, and potentially get some pics of it, once the old head is out.
Mine was real hard to tell. Even when I was shooting pics I still couldn't see it. Magnafluxing only cost me like $30. If you could remove your dowels, I'd pay for shipping me to me. Either way keep us posted in case you need anything or you have some questions.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As long as I don't end up needing them during this process, they're all yours. Just PM me your address.
John, I sent you a PM. It has my # in case you need some help or questions or are just kind of stuck. Let me know if you need anything, and remember just take your time and be methodical. Label everything and take pictures. I put a thread up over on NAXJA, and for some reason the danged pictures and walk through got jacked up. I will see if I can fix whatever is the problem and see if I can link you to it. Good luck and keep us posted, and here is a link to the thread, I have the pictures and am trying to get the links repaired so I can have it where it needs to be http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...0331+Head+Swap
Jeff
Jeff
Last edited by ihscoutlover; Apr 4, 2014 at 08:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well, the new head had the dowels but the 2 manifold studs (at each end of the head) were not included and when I pulled the manifold, the bolts came off.
It looks like I need a torx socket to get them out? Any one have any experience with this?
Nevermind! Ran to the parts store & got a 3/8 drive 12 pt socket set and got them out.
It looks like I need a torx socket to get them out? Any one have any experience with this?
Nevermind! Ran to the parts store & got a 3/8 drive 12 pt socket set and got them out.
Last edited by John2001XJ; Apr 5, 2014 at 07:03 PM.
Sorry I didn't get your call Tom. I was pulling a hydro boost unit from a Askhole van, and I didn't hear my phone ring. I read you got them out, my bad for forgetting about those studs. Glad you got them out. I had forgotten I went and bought a craftsman universal socket set, and it covered the studs and the head bolts. Keep me posted, if you have any questions, and make sure you put some anti seize on those studs as well and tighten them snug as you can, so you can torque the nuts for the manifolds to specs.
Jeff
Jeff
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 69
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No worries, Jeff - I had got a universal driver set in 1/2 inch for the head bolts but it didn't have a small enough size. I just ran out & got a 3/8 inch set & pulled the bolts.
New head is on, manifolds are in, just have some minor stuff to finish up in the morning and I'll be firing it up. Pretty excited, and once I'm done, I'm going to feel pretty accomplished as well. I really appreciate your help (and everyone else that has posted as well.)
And for anyone else that may be reading this in preparation for their own swap - I highly recommend getting a set of offset box end wrenchs - they really helped with the manifold removal. I think they're $10 - $15 @ Harbor Freight.
New head is on, manifolds are in, just have some minor stuff to finish up in the morning and I'll be firing it up. Pretty excited, and once I'm done, I'm going to feel pretty accomplished as well. I really appreciate your help (and everyone else that has posted as well.)
And for anyone else that may be reading this in preparation for their own swap - I highly recommend getting a set of offset box end wrenchs - they really helped with the manifold removal. I think they're $10 - $15 @ Harbor Freight.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 69
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From: Newark
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok - so I did something really dumb & absent minded - after getting everything on, filled etc - I started it up and noticed it had what seems like a miss, while listening and gauge watching, I noticed I had some antifreeze leaking and the belt was screeching - so I shut it down got to investigate and realized I didn't tighten the belt.
Did I just throw off the timing of engine?
Did I just throw off the timing of engine?
No. Timing is done by the computer with signals from the crank and cam sensors. Unless you unplugged those or something, you should be fine. Find out where your antifreeze leak is and seal/fix that. Tighten the belt and you should be all good. I put fresh spark plugs in my new head while I was doing everything. Make sure you have the coil rail seated good on all plugs. Otherwise it sounds like you got er done and learned some things in the process. I am working to resolve the link issue on NAXJA's site so that you can see the step by step process that I used to do mine and I did it to help others.
Jeff
Jeff


