Thanks everyone. I decided that better safe than sorry is the best course of action here, so I'm hoping to find a TUPY head quickly.

Does anyone have an opinion on National Heads? They are new replacement heads & almost half the price of Clearwater/Alabama heads.

AZSnake - I may pm you once I have everything ready for the swap. I appreciate all the help thats been given & offered.

 

Ok - just sold a motorcycle I haven't ridden in 5 yrs, so I have some cash. Still wondering if anyone has any opinions on the National Head Co. heads -


http://nationalhead.com/collections/...p-Wrangler-4WD


If they are decent heads, which one would be the better choice? the 106-0111 or 0111N? (I'm thinking the 0111N)


Grabbing a Haynes manual today, and will be downloading the FSM tomorrow.


When I get the new head - does it need to go to the machinist prior to being bolted on, or is it "unpack & attach"? Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I really haven't done much more than brake replacement before, and would like to ensure my confidence level is up before I rip my dd apart. (that I'm already waiting to drive daily....)

 

I guess no one has chimed in to help...here's a free bump to help you...

For a step-by-step, try this video...


I am patiently waiting for my 2000 head to crack...I am pretty good keeping the cooling system healthy...and so far so good.

But, If mine does die, I will go to a recommended place...not somewhere unknown...For my money, it does not need to be the cheapest solutions!

 

Jamurrin - I hear you, and was all set to order the Clearwater head, but I've been doing some research on them, and the few google searches have pulled up a whole lot of complaints on their quality, customer service & return policy as of late. I think right now they have 17 better business bureau complaints on file...

When I spoke w/National Head, I was told the heads are all new replacement heads, and not remans, but was hoping someone may have had some dealings with them. I have a couple other jy's to call today to see if a TUPY may be available, but am not holding my breath.

Thanks for the vid, too - I'll watch that this evening. I'm still hoping someone can chime in on the machinist question - I'm assuming that if I order a new head, I can just slap it on (so to speak). But again - I don't want to just "assume" anything with this issue.

 

The way I figured out my head gasket was bad { Besides obvious leak from head } was watching engine run without radiator cap on. I think someone already mentioned this. There were obvious 'burbs' of air coming up in coolant. I never had my oil turn milky, and I was trying to convince myself that leak on side of block was from valve cover, but in the end it was the head. The 'burbs' finally convinced me. Air doesn't get into a cooling system easily unless you just filled it. At least I got it done as heads are a problem on JK. Mine is a '95 with the supposedly good head, but inline 6's are more likely to have have gasket/head problems due to their length. I've only had to replace 2 heads in my life, both straight sixes. The other one was a 250 Chevy.

 

I helped a buddy of mine install a Clearwater head. Went on fine and he had no customer service issues.

I put a J&C Enterprises head on mine, I have about 5k on it since, and it is running great. No complaints. ~$450

Whichever brand you decide (unless it is a TUPY), make sure that the head you order is reinforced. And most heads that I have seen available online are ready to install.

 

I spoke to National again today - the 0111N is their new, reinforced head - pretty sure that's the one I'm going with. $482 to my doorstep.

After watching the vid that Jamurrin posted up, I have to ask another question - is putting new lifters in a good way to go? Or was that a little overkill, and/or, best if replacing the cam as well, etc?

 

head's been ordered, and will be picking up new head bolts, gasket set, etc this weekend.

Anyone have any input on my lifter question? Make sense to replace them, or is removal & good cleaning the best route, etc? Also - I have basic tools - are there any absolutely necessary items I should pick up? I have a torque wrench, but I think I read somewhere that 12 point sockets are best to use for head bolt removal & replacement?

 

Yes, 12pt socket s definitely a plus.

 

Make sure to get a tool for disconnecting your fuel line. They sell sets at any parts store for around $10. I had to quick make my own homemade tool when I removed my head.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...l#.UytTMvldWW0

 

I removed my lifters and cleaned them up. Also, don't be alarmed if some of your bridges (the metal piece that holds the two rockers down onto the springs) are bent. Just bend them back so that the rocker arm sits centered on the valve head and you will be fine.

You WILL NEED a 12 pt socket for the head bolts, as they are 12 pt bolts. a 6 pt will not work and you will end up stripping them.

You will need a few extensions / swivels to get to the manifold bolts. They are the hardest part of this project. MAKE SURE that when you are re-attaching the manifolds after the swap that you get all the bolts in and the manifold on the dowels BEFORE you tighten any of the bolts. Otherwise the manifolds may not line up right and you will be un-tightening them all again to get the last ones to seat right... (this was a major PAIN IN THE *****)

Other than that everything is pretty much straightforward... When you are tightening the head down make sure you follow the torque specs and torque sequence.

 

The 0331 head got me too. I had to rebuild the motor camshaft bearings and all. I just put a Clearwater head on. Its gone well. Rocker arm torquing is a little tricky.

I bought the jeep with already worn bearings. i found out when i changed the oil for the first time and put regular 10-30. When it would get hot outside and the jeep was on the hot side my oil pressure would drop to zero at a stop. i had to run a 20-50 mix with 10-40 to keep oil pressure. It eventually started knocking 2 years later. I would loose coolant slowly but it would never be evident in the oil. Im not sure if he had replaced the head.

Also i would not rebuild the block if it is a cracked head. From what i gather the lifter bores get worn on 3-4 cylinders causing oil pressure problems. I still have oil pressure problems on my rebuilt block. i have to run 40 weight to keep the oil pressure happy. I do live in sweaty Florida though. That oil gets thin on those 98 degree days with the a/c all out.

 

Do you mean tighten down the manifolds, and THEN torque the head down? I'm assuming yes, so the manifolds are in place & not moving once you start tightening the head.

I really appreciate all the help. I'm really hoping this goes smoothly!

 

No no no, You want to torque the head BEFORE the manifolds.

I was saying, when putting the manifolds back on, get all the bolts started in their threads before you torque any of them down. I learned this the hard way and got to the last bolt and it WOULD NOT thread in. I had to loosen ALL the other bolts and wiggle the manifolds around to get the last bolt to thread. I was so pissed. You will understand my frustration when you are trying to remove/reattach the manifolds. LOL.

Also to answer your question, I've never heard bad or good from the head company you ordered from. I got super lucky and found a fully machined TUPY head with new valves and springs on ebay for 280 bucks...

 

Awesome - glad I asked! Get everything started (but not tight), torque down head, then tighten.


I'm hoping they were right w/the shipping estimate. I'm hoping to have the new head by next Thursday, start tear down on Friday evening after work, and be done Saturday night. Cleaning & moving stuff around in my garage tomorrow so hopefully, I can get the jeep inside to work on it (small 1 car garage). Head over to HF at some point for the fuel line tool and look for the 12 pt socket (happen to the know size off the top of your head?)