The lever on my 1996 Jeep XJ is stuck down and has been for the past 6 months since I bought it. The button still pushes in and if I pull on the lever really hard it moves a little bit but then goes right back down. I'm trying to take out the center console to remove the carpet but cannot do so without lifting the lever up so I'm stuck. I know it could be rust on the cables but I'm also not super experienced and don't want to ruin something I don't know how to fix. Does anyone have an idea of why it's like this and maybe how to fix it?

 

You likely are right with the rusted cables. Not too bad a job but you do need to get into the rear brakes

 

Is there a way to tell if it's a problem with the actual lever or the whole brake system? I've searched all over the internet and haven't found anyone with the same issue.

 

Does the lever move at all? Have you pulled the rear wheels to check the brakes and the p-brake hardware?

Under the XJ you'll find the p-brake "equalizer" and adjuster. One cable comes from the lever, then splits into 2 to go to each rear drum. Have a close look at it. Then inspect your cables all the way back to the brakes. Perhaps have someone pull on th elevel while you watch the equalizer. See of there's any movement/stretching of the cable from the lever.

Worst case is you buy new cables and simply cut the end off of one of them. That should relieve enough tension to get the others off and make sure the lever is free.

 

Like mentioned, It is "probably" the cable(s)

However, the push bottom on the end of the lever actuates a spring... which engages a Pawl that holds the lever up when you pull it ( a ratcheting mechanism)

If the spring breaks it could jam up that mechanism....... if you can feel the button push in and out with slight tension.... it's probably fine... but worth mentioning.

As far as the cable, Climb under and find where the lever cable comes through the floor... It's about 2' long.
It then goes to a small metal coupler which then transitions into 2 cables..... going to the Left & right rear wheels.

that 2 into 1 section is notorious for rust and problems..... I believe there is a screw adjuster also which usually rusts and seizes up

if it's rusted to all hell, See if you can disconnect it....... worse case, cut the cables to the rear wheels if it's obviously too far gone.

try to retain the short cable going to the lever..... it will save you a headache and it usually doesn't go bad.

if you end replacing the rear wheel cables, you need to take the rear wheels and brake shoes off to get to the cable.

 

Hm.. on my '92 there's a single sprint on the button itself. the rod is shaped at the end such that it actuates the pawl forward and backwards and there is no sprint on it.

Mine failed in an interesting way, the rod that connects to the button and pawl ended up getting bent out of shape at the pawl end because the button popped off. This caused the rod to jam the pawl down and it wouldn't move, forcing it caused the pawl up and bent the rod. It took me some time to figure out how it was bent as I had only a limited number of parts, yet it seemingly never worked right. After a few go-arounds I ended up forming a guide rod out of mild steel that allowed me to figure out the shape, then I heated and re-bent the original rod to that shape, reinstalled the spring and jb welded the button on.

 

Details here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how-does-work-270760/

 

Spray a lot of WD40 or similar down from the top

get under and do the same, see if anything looks bent, broken or stuck

 

I disagree with that advice.

That will only make a huge mess.

You really need to inspect the actual cables under the vehicle and at the wheels. also pull the console cover off and inspect.

There are no magic fixes.

But then again, It's not overly complicated.

 

I found this out 1hr ago!

On my AW4 equipped '96, there is a plastic panel about 4" x 5" that contains the auto box selector numbers

It can be prized up (it just has 4 little plastic tabs, try not to break them

This can be lifted up to the height of the T-shift handle, allowing complete access to the mechanism below

 

The standard tranny console cover is tricky also... the 4wd indicator cover has a screw under (I think) and under the shifter boot also....
These are easily broken if you are ham fisted or get frustrated trying to remove the console.

 

Thanks, I'm pretty sure the little spring where the button is is still there and working because when I press down on the button it still comes back like a button normally would.

If I remove those brake cables is that only for the e-brake or is that the same braking system as just the normal brake pedal? I don't want to make the car undrivable (even though I need a working ebrake to pass inspection).

I've looked at the cables under the car and they appear to be totally rusted and stuck, but it confuses me how that stops the lever from going up. I would think that I should be able to tug on it really hard and it'll break through the rust but maybe it's just that bad.

 

I have no idea how to do any of this so I think it's time to head over to youtube and research.

 

In order to take off the console cover, I need to have the ebrake lifted up.
Like it is entirely impossible from every video I've watched (a ton) to take off the center console without the brake lever up. And if I can't take off the cover then I can't look at the brake to try and fix it so that it will go up. I'm kind of stuck in a dumb cycle where I wish Jeep had designed it differently.

 

well first,
'NO, the E-brake won't effect your normal braking.

go under the jeep and disconnect or cut where the 1 cable coming from the lever... connects to the 2 cables going to the rear wheels.

then you can get the console off.

like I said before.. try to keep the lever cable in tact.

sounds like the 2 cables going to the wheels are rusted.

if it was me I'd cut them and get on with my day... you are gonna have to replace the cables anyway