I'm kinda on a budget mind you. Should I wait and save to get something like an AA SYE and tom woods, or will a hac-n-tap work just fine? The vibes on the Cherokee are getting preeeeeety fierce. TC drop kit isn't quite cutting it. Any input is much appreciated.

 

The only difference between the Hack-n-tap and the AA SYE is the AA is pre-cut nothing more. Unless of course I am missing something..

 

Have the NP242 T-case so finding a SYE is difficult. I went with the Hack-N-Tap and have not had any regrets or complications. I say save some coin and cut it off.

 

how exactly do you do a hack n tap

 

you have to remove the rear drive shaft and cut the output shafton the transfer case. Drill and tap into the freshly cut output shaft. Then bolt on the new flange and put the new driveshaft on.

 

Or you just go the For Sale section and look for a sweet deal on a mainshaft that's already been cut drilled & tapped, a rear cone, a 39 tooth gear for your speedo, a spare chain, AND A RUBICON EXPRESS HACK & TAP FLANGE!!!


All this can be yours for a C-Note. RE is getting $99 just for the flange!

 

I ran that stuff for a few years and never had a problem with any of it.

 

cool thanks

 

Ok so what kind of new drive shaft do you need and where can one be found/ purchased???

 

A front drive shaft from any 91+ AW4 equipped XJ and a Spicer 211229x flange adapter.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/1377046-post2.html


This what it will look like when it's installed.

 

i would buy that from you today if i had the extra money, thats a hell of a deal

 

have a hackntap on my bro's 90 xj limited on his 242...works nicely doesn't leak. he's got a custom rear dshaft. luckily he bought it that way...if not I would have used a ZJ v8 front driveshaft most likely.

there are tons of different adapter/shaft combos you can run. it's a great way to get SYE for roughly 1/2 the cost (or less) of a traditional SYE with tom woods shaft.

that said, I have an actual SYE on my 87 comanche. it was totally unnecessary for the driveline angles, but for $225 for the whole case with SYE already installed I wasn't gonna complain. my rear driveshaft cost $200 and is rougly 3/16 wall...built using the double cardan parts from an xj front shaft, and parts from a early 80's wagoneer shaft (slip only as it allowed for longer slip). I'm running the same style yoke as the front driveshaft for the simple fact of quick easy trail repairs on my part (blow the shaft, I can use parts from a front dshaft to put it back together).
BTW a side note...I didn't expect to spend that much on a rear dshaft or I would have stuck with a slip-only shaft and not worried about it.

remember though that xj's and mj's have different wheelbases and the point of an SYE is both to seal your output in case you wreck a rear shaft, and to achieve better driveline angles.

 

so how much did you have to cut off the shaft? 1" what size tap/drill bit did you use?

 

go here ... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008

 

I followed the RE instructions and used the tap that comes with the kit.

http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_...E_SYE_1807.pdf

When I attempted it the first time I didn't get the hole exactly centered so i got a fresh shaft and installed in my t-case. I used engine power to spin the shaft and cut the shaft. I then removed the t-case and set it up on my drill press and got the hole dead center of the shaft.

I also eliminated the snap ring by welding the washer to the flange itself.
Works perfectly!!