Griding Noise from rear
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Model: Cherokee
And i sure will do all that. Yup my rims or metal/steel (whatever it is).
I will keep u posted hopefully its something simple
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Model: Cherokee
UPDATE- YES i just bought this car about a weekago and restoring it bit by bit. its a 2wd and it has a 4 in lift in front and a leaf spring and u bolts in back. the tires in front are bigger then the rear. My father believes when the car got lifted it . it mes up the drive shaft alignment and its to high up. is that possible making that noise. it being to high that the drive shaft is griding on the axle? We also took a look at the drive shaft and notice that the previous owner welded the u joint to the drive shaft!! can that cause the noise as well???? please help )
)
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Wisconsin
Model: Cherokee
believes when the car got lifted it . it mes up the drive shaft alignment and its to high up. is that possible making that noise.
it being to high that the drive shaft is griding on the axle?
We also took a look at the drive shaft and notice that the previous owner welded the u joint to the drive shaft!! can that cause the noise as well???? please help)
it being to high that the drive shaft is griding on the axle?
We also took a look at the drive shaft and notice that the previous owner welded the u joint to the drive shaft!! can that cause the noise as well???? please help
)I have an honest question... is there something about this XJ that you are really attached to? If not, I'd sell it and find another. Someone royally hacked this one up. Lord knows what surprises you'll find elsewhere. Probably not the kind of surprises you want to find on a limited budget.
Last edited by Radi; Jun 11, 2012 at 01:01 AM.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Wisconsin
Model: Cherokee
Here's what I'd do were it mine- you should be able to do this without paying a shop:
1) Jack up the rear of the jeep. Set it on jackstands. Chock the front tires. Grab each rear tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake, pulling at the top, then the bottom. Repeat at 3 and 9 o'clock position. Any movement?
2) put trans in neutral. Rotate each rear wheel by hand at least 2-3 full turns. Any roughness or noise?
3) do the same, watching the driveshaft and u-joints carefully. Have someone hold the opposite wheel stationary if necessary to get the driveshaft to turn.
Also watch the point where the driveshaft enters the rear differential housing. Any movement other than a smooth rotation? Anything moving up and down or side to side?
4) remove rear tires and the rear brake drums and inspect the brakes. Anything broken, missing, loose or appears scored, scratched or discolored from excessive heat?
Any gouges worn in the drum surface?
5) crawl under and attempt to twist each driveshaft u-joint, looking for signs of slop or binding. Check the bearing caps for rust dust around the edges.
6) push up and down on the ends of the driveshaft where it enters the differential, and connects to the transmission. Any up/down or side to side movement?
Let us know what you find.
If the driveshaft is bent and the u-joint is welded on, check your local scrapyards for a replacement driveshaft. The u-joints are cheap enough...replace them when you install the used shaft. That may go a long way towards fixing your problems. Hopefully the bad shaft hasn't trashed any bearings yet.
1) Jack up the rear of the jeep. Set it on jackstands. Chock the front tires. Grab each rear tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake, pulling at the top, then the bottom. Repeat at 3 and 9 o'clock position. Any movement?
2) put trans in neutral. Rotate each rear wheel by hand at least 2-3 full turns. Any roughness or noise?
3) do the same, watching the driveshaft and u-joints carefully. Have someone hold the opposite wheel stationary if necessary to get the driveshaft to turn.
Also watch the point where the driveshaft enters the rear differential housing. Any movement other than a smooth rotation? Anything moving up and down or side to side?
4) remove rear tires and the rear brake drums and inspect the brakes. Anything broken, missing, loose or appears scored, scratched or discolored from excessive heat?
Any gouges worn in the drum surface?
5) crawl under and attempt to twist each driveshaft u-joint, looking for signs of slop or binding. Check the bearing caps for rust dust around the edges.
6) push up and down on the ends of the driveshaft where it enters the differential, and connects to the transmission. Any up/down or side to side movement?
Let us know what you find.
If the driveshaft is bent and the u-joint is welded on, check your local scrapyards for a replacement driveshaft. The u-joints are cheap enough...replace them when you install the used shaft. That may go a long way towards fixing your problems. Hopefully the bad shaft hasn't trashed any bearings yet.
Last edited by Radi; Jun 11, 2012 at 01:19 AM.
Thread Starter
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Yes, too much angle can create noises, particularly from worn u-joints. Which leads to the next problem....you cannot change them now unless you can find a way to grind off the weld, or replace the shaft. Could also be the rear bearings, rear brakes, differential, input yoke bearing....
I have an honest question... is there something about this XJ that you are really attached to? If not, I'd sell it and find another. Someone royally hacked this one up. Lord knows what surprises you'll find elsewhere. Probably not the kind of surprises you want to find on a limited budget.
I have an honest question... is there something about this XJ that you are really attached to? If not, I'd sell it and find another. Someone royally hacked this one up. Lord knows what surprises you'll find elsewhere. Probably not the kind of surprises you want to find on a limited budget.
Here's what I'd do were it mine- you should be able to do this without paying a shop:
1) Jack up the rear of the jeep. Set it on jackstands. Chock the front tires. Grab each rear tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake, pulling at the top, then the bottom. Repeat at 3 and 9 o'clock position. Any movement?
2) put trans in neutral. Rotate each rear wheel by hand at least 2-3 full turns. Any roughness or noise?
3) do the same, watching the driveshaft and u-joints carefully. Have someone hold the opposite wheel stationary if necessary to get the driveshaft to turn.
Also watch the point where the driveshaft enters the rear differential housing. Any movement other than a smooth rotation? Anything moving up and down or side to side?
4) remove rear tires and the rear brake drums and inspect the brakes. Anything broken, missing, loose or appears scored, scratched or discolored from excessive heat?
Any gouges worn in the drum surface?
5) crawl under and attempt to twist each driveshaft u-joint, looking for signs of slop or binding. Check the bearing caps for rust dust around the edges.
6) push up and down on the ends of the driveshaft where it enters the differential, and connects to the transmission. Any up/down or side to side movement?
Let us know what you find.
If the driveshaft is bent and the u-joint is welded on, check your local scrapyards for a replacement driveshaft. The u-joints are cheap enough...replace them when you install the used shaft. That may go a long way towards fixing your problems. Hopefully the bad shaft hasn't trashed any bearings yet.
1) Jack up the rear of the jeep. Set it on jackstands. Chock the front tires. Grab each rear tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake, pulling at the top, then the bottom. Repeat at 3 and 9 o'clock position. Any movement?
2) put trans in neutral. Rotate each rear wheel by hand at least 2-3 full turns. Any roughness or noise?
3) do the same, watching the driveshaft and u-joints carefully. Have someone hold the opposite wheel stationary if necessary to get the driveshaft to turn.
Also watch the point where the driveshaft enters the rear differential housing. Any movement other than a smooth rotation? Anything moving up and down or side to side?
4) remove rear tires and the rear brake drums and inspect the brakes. Anything broken, missing, loose or appears scored, scratched or discolored from excessive heat?
Any gouges worn in the drum surface?
5) crawl under and attempt to twist each driveshaft u-joint, looking for signs of slop or binding. Check the bearing caps for rust dust around the edges.
6) push up and down on the ends of the driveshaft where it enters the differential, and connects to the transmission. Any up/down or side to side movement?
Let us know what you find.
If the driveshaft is bent and the u-joint is welded on, check your local scrapyards for a replacement driveshaft. The u-joints are cheap enough...replace them when you install the used shaft. That may go a long way towards fixing your problems. Hopefully the bad shaft hasn't trashed any bearings yet.
Thread Starter
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Model: Cherokee
BIG UPDATE- Today i replace the rear right wheel cylinder. ( will be doing the left tomorrow) and it made a very big difference to the noise! it less noisy i mean i can hear my engine rawr now haha! Found out that my muffler tip was rubbing agaist my leaf spring. so i fixed that . will get the ujoint fixed asap. Hopefully replacing the left wheel cylinder makes a bigger difference!. im guessing most of the sound is coming from their if it made a very big difference!!.
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From: NW WA
Year: 89
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Engine: straight 6
and i didn't even know a wheel cylinder made noise! hey radi nice To do list. Need to partake of that myself.
hey op, how much was this thing driven with bigger tires on one axle than the other. not too good for txr case either. my truck sounds like a garbage truck dumping a dumpster in it's top. i let my wifie and her friend drive it for a month or two and i'm looking to get it to RUN again, for about the third time in three months.
hey op, how much was this thing driven with bigger tires on one axle than the other. not too good for txr case either. my truck sounds like a garbage truck dumping a dumpster in it's top. i let my wifie and her friend drive it for a month or two and i'm looking to get it to RUN again, for about the third time in three months.
Thread Starter
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WIll i dont have big tirres on it. their different sizes cuz of the last owner(bought it a week ago) hopefully when i put good tires and get the drive shaft fixed (replacing u joint and yolk) and installing the left wheel cylinder it will stop all the noise )
)
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From: Wisconsin
Model: Cherokee
Didn't you mention the driveshaft was bent? If so, don't bother repairing it. Grab another from the scrapyard and install the new u-joints. Bent shafts are all sorts of headache.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,302
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From: Wisconsin
Model: Cherokee