A: A, E.

Anyways... My first oil change was with craptastic Wally-world oil. Only 300 miles ago. I wanted to run something clean, for a short period of time, on a good filter just to help cleans it from whatever the PO didn't do. Though he was a good fella, so I can't imagine it getting neglected.

However this weekend I'll be getting Rotella T5 10 - 30, with the same brand filter (Wix). In my area, I can purchase Rotella @ $15.98 a gallon (Lowes). Tax free (NH), and w/ 10% off... Which is good because it's only a 1 gallon jug, i'll need two of them.

I didn't read through Bobs thingy yet... I had my valve cover off not too long ago, and didn't find any sludge. However, I was wondering... What cleans your engine best; Frequent oil changes? Or... More detergents? When I say "detergents" this includes synthetics, and additives. I guess I'm asking; which is the more efficient way of loosening sludge and carbon deposites in your engine so that they can be cycled through and rid of?

 

Actually, the answer to the 1st ? is E and the answer to the second ? is A.

I don't want to turn this into a cooling system/overheating thread (LOL) but, the longer the oil stays inside a motor and possibly being overheated and for sure the additive pkg breaking down over time/miles, the more likely the chance of sludge forming. With synthetic or conventional oil, crud starts to contaminate both types at the same rate due to the characteristics of a internal combustion engine. A very "loose/neglected" motor contaminates oil quicker than a "tight/well maintained" motor. Only a UOA can determine the oil condition accurately/safely. Personally, I've never had a UOA done, just changed frequently using a good filter.

I would rather error on the side of changing a little to soon vs changing a little to late. For the most part, I think it is virtually impossible for sludge to form if the oil is changed frequently and motor maintenance is not neglected.

 

I think I got the questions mixed up.

Anyhow... What if there's sludge and carbon build up already there, or forming?

 

Regarding sludge, watching how quickly new oil darkens and changing it before it turns jet black will go a long ways toward internal cleaning, but again, it kinda depends on the condition of the motor. Usually, a sign that the internals r "cleaning up" is the new oil takes longer to darken up.

Carbon build-up usually occurs in the combustion chambers and a severe build-up may require removing the head while a dose or two cleaner poured in the gas tank may clean up mild carbon deposits.

 

I run napa gold with 10w-30 and change it every 3k. Does anyone change theirs after 7500?

 

Wix or the Napa equivilant which is a Napa Gold (made by Wix), also Purolater Pur One (The yellow coated filter), Mobil 1 filters, K&N

Stay way from Fram

 

There's the answer^^.

 

In the old pre-OBD and electronic management days, we used to clean out engine sludge by pouring a quart or so of diesel fuel in the crankcase and driving it around for about 100 miles. It seemed to loosen a lot of junk up and get it moved to the pan. I'm not sure what havoc this may cause with more modern engines using modern catalytics and O2 sensors.

 

To each his own. I see some people on this forum do not change their own oil. I do not believe they even know what is used at the place they get it changed. others use this or that oil and this or that filter. whatever works for you. I think it is hard to say one is best. I use NAPA gold because I but them in bulk once a year and like the price reduction for doing so. For oil, I use NAPA straight 30 wt. Again, I like the price when I buy in quantity. I also found that the price varies in different NAPA stories. I have not had any problems with the way I do it and I also change oil between 1500 and 2000 miles. If you have the ability to change your own oil, at least you know what is going on and what was done.

 

I work at a truck garage so the diesel oils are easy to get..from my knowledge, they are more durable under high temps and have a little more in the area of detergents for high mileage use..cleans the pipes a lil better than say, Walmart super tech haha..personally I use Mobile Delvac Super 1300 10w-30

 

Rotella 15/40 in everything I own..I own a Cummins, Flat head Ford coupe (PERFECT for this motor!), a Ranger (mazda motor) XJ and Wrangler... company car gets whatever Jiffy screw puts in Rotella is good stuff...flat head has no oil filter (it was an dealer installed option back in the day!) and I change it once a year (about 2500-3k miles) and when draining it is still pretty clean.. both 4.0s are quiet with no valve tick like you hear on some 4.0s, clean when drained...in my dually it stinks for awhile (aka Rosemella) but definitly runs quieter then Delo or anything else I have run in that truck..thus me putting it everything...i will say in the Ranger the 15/40 is a little much...engine is a little doggier on a already doggy truck and the fuel mileage went down a little but it is still pretty clean when I change it a 10k (hwy miles) I am no BITOG but have owned MANY cars in my lifetime (yes I am old). I think it is the best non synthetic oil you can get IMHO.
Cameron

 

I agree. I use it in everything, too. Had a fleet of tow trucks and it was all I used in my fleet and the ones I maintained for other people.

 

As long as you don't use a Fram filter you'll be fine. XJ's aren't fancy. They don't need fancy oil or spark plugs. Use a high quality filter and whichever oil you want and you'll be fine.

 

Interesting read on filters...

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/eati...io-111282.html

 

I always ran 5w30.

My 01 however only gets 10w40, because thats all the previous owner ran. Why change something that works? I do however Seafoam the oil for a few minutes before every oil change, let every single drop come out (I do it at my shop, so I have time to let it sit half the day) then add oil & Restore 6 cylinder treatment. Not sure where I picked that trait up from but have been using it for years now, every oil change.