Fuse #9
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Fuse #9
Recently I moved and borrowed a trailer from my dad when I took it back to his house I had all my interior lights, power mirrors, my locks and radio go out I looked underneath the dash and had a red light glowing which was my fuse, I pulled the fuse out (10 amp fuse) and sure enough it was blown so I just replaced it with a 15 and all my stuff worked again. Well 3 weeks went by and it did it again I replaced the fuse with a 20 and then tonight when I opened up the driver side door and then walked around to the passenger side and opened it the fuse blew...I really don't want to put a 30amp fuse in, what could possibly be blowing the fuse? Went to autozone today to get new fuses and the old one wasn't blown so where do I start?
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Model: Cherokee
I also have after market headlights, light bar, and I have redone the interior lights with LEDs this was all done when I got the jeep and it didn't start blowing fuse 9 until I hauled the trailer
#5
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First things first-
Stop replacing fuses with higher amp ones. There's a reason that fuse has a low amperage, the circuit was designed for it. Put a higher amp fuse in, and the fuse (which is supposed to be the weak link in the circuit) is now rated higher than the wiring it was designed to support. Great way to start an electrical fire.
Second, is it a factory tow package? Or was the hitch/trailer plug aftermarket? Bottom line here is you need to do some noggin' pokin'. Get a meter and a schematic and start looking for shorts, or power to ground issues.
Stop replacing fuses with higher amp ones. There's a reason that fuse has a low amperage, the circuit was designed for it. Put a higher amp fuse in, and the fuse (which is supposed to be the weak link in the circuit) is now rated higher than the wiring it was designed to support. Great way to start an electrical fire.
Second, is it a factory tow package? Or was the hitch/trailer plug aftermarket? Bottom line here is you need to do some noggin' pokin'. Get a meter and a schematic and start looking for shorts, or power to ground issues.
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jeepNYC (10-23-2022)
#6
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Ditto!! You need to find the hot wire that is grounding out the circuit or find what is causing the over load.
Last edited by JandDGreens; 11-14-2015 at 02:20 AM.
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
96 is the transition year also. Hard to find info...A regular trailer harness will cause issue on xjs .This is what should be used. Dont like how its just put under hatch but harness is correct.
Last edited by freegdr; 11-14-2015 at 06:31 AM.
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#12
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Model: Cherokee
I started lifting up the carpet and checking wires I noticed the insulation is pretty damp on the pas danger side I can see day light could the wires have gotten wet or dusty?
#13
::CF Administrator::
You need to be checking the insulation for rips, tears, cracks, exposed conductor, fraying, shorting conditions and continuity. If this all sounds foreign to you, either start reading up on electrical theory, diagnostics, and repair, or take it to someone who has knowledge in the issues. Bottom line here is we can't track it down for you.
Get a FSM for your year specific jeep, here: http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/
Then get one of these:
And start diagnosing ALL the circuits you're having issues with. Best I got.
BTW if you can see daylight from inside your jeep, you have bigger issues....
#15
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I did all that could find anything, I even looked in the relay box and found a 20a fuse blown pulled out put a new one in and I have lights and music now. I'm gonna fix the hole in the floor soon I had a 1990 jeep pioneer that had the passenger side rusted all the way out but it wasn't a daily driver