(Hopefully these attachments come through.)

So now that makes me wonder if that what this "extra" connector is between the tranny and the Tcase. Could it be the 2nd speed sensor, meaning that the tranny is actually from a 98 or newer?

And if that's the case, what TCM do I use, since the 97 and newer are completely different from mine?

 

So something new happened last night to either help pinpoint my problem, or throw another wrench into the works.

On the way home on the freeway, I lost overdrive completely. Put it down into third, no difference, except for the fact that the lockup torque converter engaged. Put it back into overdrive, the tc disengaged, and the rpms actually went higher than in third. It stayed like this for about a mile, until I threw it back down into third, and put the pedal to the floor. Threw it back into od around 3500rpm, and it went into od, and stayed there.

And it happened again this morning.

Is this symptoms of a bad/wrong TCM? Can solenoids be ruled out at this point?

 

Do malfunctioning solenoids always cause a CEL? That is one thing I haven't had yet.

 

I'm new to the forum. I've owned a 90 Cherokee for about 10 years, and the torque converter lockup has alway operated backward like you've described. I've been to literallly dozens of "experts" who can't figure it out beyond replaceing the TPS. I'm eager to get a fix. Also my torque converter will not unlock under load until a split second before downshifting. I've even installed a springloaded switch to unlock under load. I was so happy to see your post as now I know I'm not crazy.

 

Any luck on this? Ive had the same issue with my 96, 269K, transmission will not start out in 1, PO replaced it with a lower milage AW4, and it does the same thing. All my voltages test out correctly going to the TCM, and the solenoid ohms check out. New NSS, new TPS.

My TCM is a 56041016.

 

SO for the last 2 1/2 months, it was working great. No problems.

It was after I got frustrated with it one day doing it's "thing" while coming up a hill that I floored it, and just kept my foot down. I didn't care at that point if it blew up, figuring I could just start at square 1 at that point. I felt a little "pop" just before it went into overdrive, and I let off. From that point forward, my problem seemed to disappear.

That is, until this morning. I had been on vacation, so it had been sitting for a week. When I went to take off from a stop sign, it was started off in what felt like 3rd. Got on the freeway, same stupid torque converter problem.

Oh well...it was a good 2 1/2 months.

I think I'm going to be replacing the solenoids next, unless someone has another suggestion. I'll keep you informed

 

Try to contact a member --Excess650- he has pretty good knowledge of the electrical on the AW4 and also some troubleshooting schematics for the same.

When I used to do tranny's and computer control was just getting its way many times we HAD to rebuild the customers trans because we didn't have 1 EXACTLY like it. When putting in a junker u have to be really careful what u put in. Most junkyards will sell u anything that is close and tell u all u have to do is this or that. There is alot more to it.

 

It sounds like you folks need the AW4 trans and diganosis manuals. PM me your email addresses and I'll send them as attachments.

My '96 had a problem that gradually got worse. It started out as occasionally not shifting to 1st when at a stop sign or light, and gradually worsened to the point that it would never select 1st when in D or 3. At that time it wouldn't downshift via kickdown to 2nd, and OD and lockup became erratic.

I tried the TPS and kickdown cables because they're easy and not $$. I managed to find manuals and proved that my issue was electronic by manual shifting with the TCU unplugged. I tested the NSS and solenoids with a VOM and discovered the S1 solenoid to be WAY out of tolerance. Replacing the S1 solved all of my problems including the erratic OD and lockup.

A '97 or later trans needs some rewiring at a minimum to go into a '96 or earlier XJ. '97 just needs the harness rewired, but '98 and later have additional VSS. AFAIK, the TCU from 92-96 are swappable. IIRC 97 and later TCUs need to be flashed by a dealer.

 

I'm bumping this old thread to see if anyone figured this out. I've been dealing with this OD issue on my '96 for years now and it's driving me crazy. There are dozens of these threads like this, that just fade out without a resolution. Please tell me someone has figured this out!

 

There are two ground wires that run to the oil dipstick bolt on the passenger side of the engine block. If I am not mistaken those two wires are the ground wires for the TCU/ECU. I had P0700 code recently, turned out one of them was completely exposed. Fixed my issue. You may not have a code but knowing how these electrical gremlins can be, its worth a shot.
(might as well clean all your ground wires on the block while you're there)


Also have you tried looking at your filter? Could be debris clogging it up from who knows what.

 

Yeah, here's everything I've done so far, in order:

New fluid and filter
Swapped TCU
Checked brake pedal switch
Adjusted TV cable
New TPS
All new solenoids
New fluid and filter (again)
Aftermarket tranny cooler
Checked brake switch (again)
Cleaned out all electrical connectors that go to the transmission
Cleaned off and inspected all TCU grounds

None of this stopped it. It will go nine months without a hiccup and then randomly start up again, every day, for a random period of time. I'm in the middle of an every day streak, so it's driving me nuts. I plan to remove the NSS and clean it out, but I don't think that'll fix it.

 

my 6 months of frustration was solved by finding a fuse that looked good, but tested bad. Swapped it, and drove like normal.

 

Which fuse was it and where is it located?

 

What exactly is yours doing?

I see you have oversize tires. They can raise hell with the TCC lockup since your road speed no longer matches what the computer expects for a given RPM.

 

I just remember it was under the hood, think it was a 10 or 15 amp. That Jeep has long gone to the rust heap.