I'm about to embark on the replacement of my front wheel bearings. Seems pretty easy and since I'm out of work, a lot cheaper to do myself. And with the advent of youtube, I've watched about ten vids showing the work. I was just wondering a few things:
1. Dealer wants about $385.00 per bearing when my local auto dude is $134.00 to $160.00, depending on rotor dims. Why such difference in price?
2. Axle nut size in MM?
3. Bearing and caliper bolt sizes?
Thanks

 

There are different bearings and I have to admit you pay for what you get. I recommend getting the Timken Bearing. I replaced hub bearings on my Chevy Impala with the cheaper one's and ended up paying to replace them with the Timken ones a few months later. Haven't had a problem with the Timken's at all.

 

http://rockauto.com/ - check it out, better pricing on alot of stuff, just watch out for shipping charges cause parts come from all over. the cheapest one is $75 + shipping

x2 on timken

 

Cause its the dealer.
As stated, timken is good brand to go with. i was checking out on autozones site the other day, timkens were around 150, and they had duralast for like 70.... definitely suspicious there, i would go with timkens if you can. i used to work at a auto parts warehouse and we dealt with them. never saw them come back the way the cheapies did

 

Also, cant help you on the axle nut size... im thinking 30MM. Also the bearing bolts are 13mm 12 point bolts. be prepared to use a breaker bar to get them out. caliper bolts are 13mm as well.

 

The axle bolt is a 36mm.

 

Thanks all you guys. Timken is the ticket. Also the sizes for the hardware is a great help. I'm giving a retired mechanic buddy of mine a laundry list of tools needed to knock this baby out. Glad the Lions thing wasn't an issue.

JB

 

Lot's of great step-by-steps for this one. A quick search will turn them up. If it's a daily driver, get the least expensive hub you can find. Don't believe the hype. $48-$175! Search the Web, prices vary considerably! Also, get new 6 new Flange head bolts about ($4-6 ea). The ones that come out without breaking will need to be cleaned up to use in that fresh hub. Save the used ones for an emergency or for a friend who's drank a little too much take-home pay. Absolutely use Anti-seize everywhere. You will not regret it. It's actually alot easier than it looks, especially with the help of some of the pros here on CF.

 

I kind of disagree with this statement. Not too long ago I changed the hub bearings in my DD. On my buddies advice, I got the "middle of the road" NAPA ones. He kept telling me "it's just as good as a Timkin". Yeah. Within 2 months it was wobbling worse than the one I replaced it with. $109 for the real deal at Autozone. Install it and forget it.

 

Axle nut is a 36MM
Caliper bolts are 13MM

Best way to go about replacing the wheel bearing/hub assembly is to remove the wheel, pull the cotter pin and nut cover, then pop the center cap out of your wheel, put it back on, and lower the Jeep back to the ground. Doing this will allow you to use the weight of the vehicle to your advantage. Most of the time when you try to remove the axle nut with the tire off and the Jeep in the air the whole hub assembly will just spin. Once you break the nut loose, jack the vehicle back up, remove the wheel, remove the three caliper bolts, tie the caliper up on something so it doesn't hang by the brake line, pull your rotor, then pull the hub assembly. Do the opposite to install the new one.

I would recommend replacing both wheel bearings at the same time, the other one will most likely fail soon. I would also recommend Timken brand bearings.

 

If the wheel bearings have never been replaced before be prepared to spend some time with a hammer and chisel to get them loose.

 

Good point. Not sure how I forgot about that... That was one hell of a chore lol

 

I disagree I bought the cheep ones. I replace them every 8 months even if they don't need it. The parts store guys think its funny. Bought 2 for 80 something each and both my jeeps have the same ones. Funny story with the one year factory replacement I always have new ones in both jeeps A half hour or so every 8 months is nothing. Yes I'm going to hell along with china for making that bull shart!

 

Thanks again. With all the postings, I feel well prepared. Should I hit the dealer for the13MM bearing bolts or a auto parts store? The only thing that scares me about buying them online is getting the right one. I was told there are two for my 1999 Jeep Cherokee sport, and depending on the rotor dims, it could be either one. I just need to identify it and search. And the last thing. I should have done this three months ago when my *** wouldn't freeze solid to the ground or have to use gloves. You wait, you pay. Thanks again.

 

I think the diff in them is if you have ABS or not but I could be wrong. And I have to thank my granpa for constant use of his heated shop. Its only 40 but that's better then 14.