I bought this XJ about a year ago and assumed that the bumper was just bent or pushed in but recently I did some more looking around since I'm in the market for a new bumper. Just looking at it, the are is certainly not straight and it pulls to the right even after alignment. Could this also be a part of that problem. Realistically speaking, could I fix this at home or should I take it to get fixed? I know the pictures don't really do it justice but i dont think I could get the bumper off withour cutting some bolt and I don't wanna ride around without it on. Thanks

 

I guess I don't see what you are describing. Bear in mind that the D30 front axle has a difference of 1.5° castor between the steering knuckles that makes them pull to the right anyway.

 

yeah that picture is kinda garbage. The front of the frame where the bumper connects is crunched in from the previous guy hitting something. Just wondering if it would be a driveway fix or take to a shop kinda fix. It’s only a small are from what I can see

 

My only point is that these pull to the right anyway with factory specs. So if that is what you are worried about, don't

 

The bumper and its mount did what it was designed to do - absorb the force.

Plenty of creative ways to pop that back out. Don't be surprised if you find more once the bumper and bracket is removed. None of which I would think would cause your jeep to veer one way or the other. Unless there was significant damage to the control arm mounts or the jeep as a whole got the smoosh and is frowning/smiling front to back, prolly not a big deal

 

east to pull bumper and fix with various hammers and lengths of wood. this should be done to inspect for any further damge

soak all fasteners well b4 if possible

slightly unrelated but you can correct the castor and wheel base issue side to side with adjustable front arms

as we are RHS and the road camber is opposite, if you lift yor xj, it advisable

i did this (among Other things) tracks like a ban arrow

 

My bumper was pushed in just like that (after connecting with something solid buried in a hedge) which I fixed with a strap, the tow hitch on a parked WJ - and some creative use of reverse!

 

Hey brotha sorry for super late response, still trying to figure some stuff out. When you say its supposed to pull, how much should it be. Like I barely hit the brakes and its yanking right and if I let go of the wheel, it just goes right without hesitation. My steering wheel has to be held pretty good to keep it straight and its almost like the wheel wants to sit at maybe 2 o'clock all the time.

 

Bro, I answered on the other post about your ball joints, but you yourself are saying the axle is bent and it pulls badly to one side following an accident ?

That does not sound good, if it tracks and pulls to one side.

Problem is it is hard to check and measure.

The alignment shop should be consulted, but if its anything like mine, I am a better mechanic than them

If in any doubt, replace the entire front axle assembly if possible

 

If you are getting that kind of response with braking, I think the problem there is the brakes themselves

 

lol my bad bro I wasn’t checking. I mean I never asked them about it and they never said anything but I’ll get it checked out. That’s a problem for when I have money but for now we just gonna thug it out. Thanks again

 

I’ve replaced the calipers pads and rotors. Autozone brakes are dog water apparently cause I’ve already gone through 2 sets of rotors from putting and my brakes are squeaking again already.

 

there is a few things here to sort through.

If it pulls to one side when braking, then probably brakes

If it steers or tracks to one side, and pressure has to be maintained on steering wheel, that is alignment, wear or damage

If the steering wheel is not in the straight ahead position when the vehicle is driving in a straight line, but no pressure is needed to keep it straight, that is just the draglink tie-rod end not adjusted correctly, which creates an illusion

Your alignment shop would have just hooked up the laser gear, measured, adjusted toe-in with tie rods, and they may be too stupid to correct steering wheel straight ahead position via draglink tie rod

Adjusting castor and camber is $$ per hour

Most tyre & alignment places exploit young guys, and their older supervisors are on day release from jail, ya know what I mean

 

I can agree with that. Autozone to me is not a real parts store. The one here always has kids at the counter fresh out of school and they don't stay long. I usually use NAPA. However you have to watch the lifetime warranty brake pads. The material is so hard, it is hard to stop unless you are panic stopping and get the pads good and warm. I generally get ceramic pads now. Hard on rotors, but they never fade